Page 139 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 11: Slopes of Gold 137

e Autun
Saône-et-Loire, Bourgogne; 71400
Founded at the end of the 1st
century BC at the behest of Emperor
Augustus, the town of Autun was
originally known as Augustodunum.
From its hillock, the old city domi-
nates the Morvan mountains and
forests, and the river-plains of the
Saône-et-Loire. Among its many
Gallo-Roman relics are the Roman
amphitheatre, the biggest of its time,
seating 20,000 people; two monu- Above left Elaborate clock of the Cathédrale
mental gateways, the Porte Saint- including Gallo-Roman mosaics. Soak St-Lazare in Autun Above right Tourist boats
André and Porte d’Arroux; vestiges up the ambience of Latin antiquity moored near the Lac des Settons Below left
of the once 6-km (4-mile) long city on an evening stroll – in July and Vineyard near Nolay
wall; and, across the Arroux river, the August the tourist office (13 rue
remains of the Roman Temple of Général Demetz , 03 85 86 80 38 ) organ- EAT AND DRINK
Janus. On the Place du Terreau, the izes guided night-time tours.
elabo rately decorated, late Gothic ª Exit town via the N80 then turn SAULIEU
Cathédrale St-Lazare has what is onto the D973 through to Nolay. A Café Parisien inexpensive
considered one of the finest exam- worthwhile detour along the way is This iconic café with a marble and
stone façade has a menu consisting of
ples of Romanesque tym pana, with the Château de Sully – take the D326
soups, salads, sweets and plats du jour.
its mass of carved stone relief. The to the left near Creusefond and follow
Rue du Marché, 21210; 03 80 64 26 56;
Musée Rolin next door displays the signs to the château. www.cafeparisien.net
a collection of religious artworks, Le Relais Bernard Loiseau Hôtel-
r Nolay Restaurant expensive
Côte d’Or, Bourgogne; 21340 This restaurant offers classic dishes in
The centrepiece of this medieval elegant surroundings.
2 rue d’Argentine, 21210; 03 80 90 53
market town is its open-sided Halles
53; www.bernard-loiseau.com; closed
or covered market, whose solid
Tue, Wed, lunch Oct–Mar
wooden pillars support a roof made
of paving stones. From the Hôtel de AUTUN
Relais des Ursulines inexpensive
Ville on Rue de la République, seek
This buzzing restaurant is known for its
out Medieval échoppes, stores and car-
pastas, pizzas and salads.
pen ters’ work shops with stone cellars 2 rue Dufraigne, 71400; 03 85 52 26 22;
and wood-panelled façades. The Rue www.lerelaisdesursulines.com, closed
Saint Querin has several colombage Sat lunch, Sun
houses, the legacy of a strong trade in Le Monde de Don Cabillaud moderate
carpentry until Henri IV banned such St-Malo chef serves up fantastic fare at
buildings because of the fre quent this highly recommended fish
restaurant far from the sea. Book ahead.
fires. The chapel in the quarter of
4 rue des Bancs, 71400; 07 60 94 21 10;
Saint-Pierre is one of just three that closed Sun and Mon, plus various days
remain from the village’s original 15. in Mar, Jun, Oct. Check ahead
DAYTRIP OPTIONS Beaune towards Savigny-leś-Beaune Rural lakes
The following day trips are best and then turn right onto the D115D. Water sports and activities rule on the
undertaken from Beaune, Vézelay right bank of the Lac des Settons w –
Castles and canals
and the Morvan region (either Autun swimming, canoeing and fishing.
The Canal de Bourgogne between
or Saulieu) respectively. However, the lakeside also has several
Châteauneuf-en-Auxois 4, Veuvey-
hidden cor ners ideal for picnicking.
Wine country sur-Ouche and La Bussière-sur-
Amateurs as well as professionals Ouche is perfect for boating. For those based in Saulieu, follow the
itinerary. If you are in Autun, head
can expand their knowledge of wine The canal borders the D18 from
during a day’s visit to the big gest north on the D980, turn left on the
Veuvey-sur-Ouche to the turn-off to D149, con tinue on the D20 and turn
zone of grands crus in Burgundy,
Châteauneuf-en-Auxois. From Veuvey- left onto the D302, pass through
centred on Aloxe-Corton 2.
sur-Ouche it heads towards La Moux-en-Morvan and take the D193
For Aloxe-Corton take the D18 from Bussière-sur-Ouche via the D33. to Lac des Settons.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate €20–€40; expensive, over €40