Page 138 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

136 BACK ROADS FRANCE

0 Château de Bazoches churches in Burgundy. Head to the
Nièvre, Bourgogne; 58190 Musée François Pompon, named
From a wooded hilltop, the château after a famous local sculptor (1856–
with its multi-turreted roof has com- 1933), to see the history of sacred art,
manding views over the countryside local gas tro nomy and folk lore. For
as far as Vézelay, over which it was living history, take a seat at the Café
designed to watch. The overwhelm- Parisien which has graced the Rue
ingly handsome structure is com- du Marché since 1832.
posed around four towers with two ª There are adjacent signs pointing in
matching sides. The superb land- two different directions from Saulieu to
scaped gardens, on the site of an old the Lac des Settons – take the Chemin
Roman camp, unfurl into paddocks des Plaines and turn right onto the
and forest. The bedrooms, salons, D977bis. At Montsauche-les-Settons
study, armour displays, internal court turn left and take the D193. The road
and sundial of the château provide a leads to a crossroads with signs
rare glimpse into the life of Maréchal pointing to Lac des Settons rive gauche
Vauban whose family still owns the or rive droite (left or right bank).
château. Check for concerts and
events held here (open daily Mar–Nov). w Lac des Settons
Above Grand and imposing Château de ª Continue on the D958, then left Nièvre, Bourgogne; 58230
Bazoches Below Beautiful Place du Terreau onto the D128. In the centre of Chalaux The Lac des Settons is the biggest
in Autun bear off to the right onto the D286, con- of three artifi cial lakes in the depths
tinue on the D210, then back onto the of the Morvan forest area. Its rive
WHERE TO STAY D286 through to Dun-les-Places. Turn droite, or right bank, is the lake
left and take the D6 then the D26A resort, densely dotted with paddle
SAULIEU and finally the D977bis to Saulieu. boats and windsurfers, and with
restaurant terraces, old lakeside
Hostellerie La Tour d’Auxois
moderate q Saulieu hotels and camping grounds around
This friendly establishment has plain, Côte d’Or, Bourgogne; 21210 its banks. Nautical centres for boat
pleasant rooms and suites. There is a This pretty town is surrounded by rides and yacht and windsurf hire
bistro, a restaurant, a piano bar and a farmland, forest and lakes. Saulieu’s are also concentrated here, near
swimming pool.
Square Alexandre Dumaine, 21210; 03 ancient name Sedelocum – a stop- the huge dam. Visitors can easily
80 64 36 19; www.tourdauxois.com over – comes from its situation as a continue on the loop road around
historic passage between the north the lake to the other side, or take
AUTUN
and south of France and as the gate- to one of the walking trails, which
Les Ursulines moderate way to the Morvan. The Basilique are also great for joggers.
Between the cathedral and forested St-Andoche is a masterpiece of Of the other Morvan lakes, the Lac
surrounds, this ivy-covered hotel-
restaurant is situated on a gardened Romanesque art, notably in the intri- de Pannecière is 24 km (15 miles)
swathe of old city walls. The decor cate granite features on its façade further west from Settons, through
of the rooms and suites combines and elabo rately carved chancel, or Montsauche-les-Settons. From there
medieval with modern. The restaurant choir and altar area. The gargoyle- take the D977bis, turn left onto the
menu features Burgundy dishes and
French classics. spouted fountain on the church D301 and right into the D303.
14 rue Rivault, 71400; 03 85 86 58 58; square adds to the claim of its being Pannecière is a rustic place, ideal for
www.hotelursulines.fr one of the prettiest Romanesque fishing and enjoying nature. This lake
saved Paris from being regularly
flooded by the rising water levels of
the Seine river. The Lac de Saint
Agnan is more rural, bordered by
meadows and grazing cattle. To
reach the lake from Saulieu, head
west on the D977bis, continue on
the D106 and the D225; then turn
left onto the D226.
ª Take the D193 and pass by Moux-
en-Morvan. Then take the D302, turn
right onto the D20, then the D149 and
continue straight through on the D980.
Follow the signs to the city centre.
There are car parks near the tourist
office on Place du Champ-de-Mars.