Page 160 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

158 BACK ROADS FRANCE

1 Clermont-Ferrand Cathédrale Nôtre-Dame-de-
Puy-de-Dôme, Auvergne; 63000 l’Assomption, built entirely of black
Clermont is one of the oldest cities of lava. Nearby is the town’s oldest
France. It was one of the largest towns fountain, the 16th-century Fontaine
of Roman Gaul, and became an epis- d’Amboise, while downhill stands the
copal seat in the 5th century. In 1095 Romanesque church of Nôtre-Dame-
Pope Urban II proclaimed the First du-Port, another architectural treasure.
Crusade here. In 1630 the town was ª Follow signs for Limoges on Rue
allied with neighbouring Montferrand, Fontgiève and Avenue Raymond
which belonged to the Counts of Bergougnan, then signs for Puy de
Auvergne. Together they evolved Dôme on the D941. At the crossroads
into today’s conurba tion which in La Baraque, drive straight onto the
surrounds a volcanic mound on D942. At La Font de l’Arbre, turn right
which stands the distinc tive onto the D68 to reach the Puy de Dôme.

2 Puy de Dôme
Puy-de-Dôme, Auvergne; 63870
This unmistakable volcanic hump looming over Clermont-Ferrand
was formed 11,000 years ago by three volcanic eruptions, the last
two spewing viscous flows of lava that filled in the crater caused by
Above Detail of a stained-glass window in the first and rounding off the mountain. The views from the top on a
the cathedral at Clermont-Ferrand Below
Ruins of the Gallo-Roman Temple de Mercure, clear day takes in around 100 nearby volcanoes. Choose the day and
Puy de Dôme time carefully, as it is not worth ascending in low cloud or fog.
A one-hour (Circuit Path), to circle
walking tour the summit clockwise.
Visitors can park their The Monts-Dore to the
car and walk up the old southwest soon come
Roman road, the Chemin into view. Standing out
des Muletiers, to the from them is the Puy de
VISITING PUY DE DÔME
summit. It takes about 45 Sancy, (1,885 m/6,185 ft),
Tourist Information minutes to climb the 350-m A road sign indicating the highest mountain in
Visitors’ Centre on Puy de Dôme; 04 73 (1,150-ft) track. Alternatively, steepness the Massif Central. Far
62 21 46; www.planetepuydedome. a 15-minute train journey behind the Puy de Sancy
com; open daily, but the road to the transports visitors to the entrance, are the Monts du Cantal. Keep going
summit is closed in bad weather
where the Visitor Centre 1 houses clockwise around the western rim
Parking an information area, ticket office, of the summit. The next viewpoint
There is parking for 1,000 cars at the
base of the Puy de Dôme. The car park restaurant, multimedia room and is to the north west. Beyond the
is under a living, plant-covered roof in a shopping area. From the summit wood ed Puy de Côme (1,252 m/
an effort to make as little impact as an arc of gentle, wooded volcanic 4,108 ft), the artificial volcanic cone
possible on the view from the summit. hills curves away. These are the of Vulcania Theme Park (see p161) is
It is within walking distance of the train south ern peaks of the Chaîne des visible. A little further round, (north
station, and the route is through both
wood and prairie in order to introduce Puys. Puy de Dôme also belongs to northeast) look down upon
the public to the natural landscapes to this range. Turn left (west) Puy de Pariou (1,189 m/3,900 ft), a
they are going to encounter. and follow the Chemin de Ronde perfect cinder cone with a crater.
WHERE TO STAY
CLERMONTFERRAND
Royal Hotel Saint-Mart moderate
This welcoming hotel in a spa about
3 km (2 miles) south of Clermont-
Ferrand has been owned by the same
family for five generations. It is con-
veniently located for getting to the
Puy de Dôme. Private parking facilities
are available.
6 avenue de la Gare, Royat, 63130; 04
73 35 80 01; www.hotel-auvergne.com