Page 161 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France
P. 161

DRIVE 14: Volcanoes of the Auvergne  159


       The path now goes around the
       sum mit of the Puy de Dôme on
       which stands a meterological
       observatory  2. The site is scientifically
       symbolic, as it was here, in 1648,
       that polymath Blaise Pascal sent
       his brother-in-law to take measure-
       ments to prove how atmos pheric
       pressure changed with altitude.
       A television mast  3 next to the
       observatory adds 89 m (292 ft) to
       the natural height of the mountain
       (1,465 m/4,806 ft).                              Above left Salers cow in lush Auvergne
        The last view from the summit, to   right onto the D983 and look for signs   pastures Above right Romanesque chapel in
       the east, is over Clermont-Ferrand,   for Col de Guéry.   Chambon-sur-Lac
       with its black-stone cathedral stand-
       ing proud. A little ahead are the   3 Col de Guéry
       excavated ruins of the Gallo-Roman   Puy-de-Dôme, Auvergne; 63240
       Temple de Mercure  4, which was   From the Col de Guéry there is a
       built in the early 2nd century AD.    stunning view of two volcanic out-
       On 7 March 1911, aviator Eugène   crops. The Roche Tuilière, on the left,
       Renaux made history by landing a   is composed of trachyte columns from
       plane on top of the Puy de Dôme   the chimney of a ruined volcano.
       after flying for 5 hours from Paris.    The Roche Sanadoire, on the right,
       He did it in response to a chal lenge   is the remnant of a volcanic cone.
       by the Michelin brothers, tyre   A castle stood on its summit until
       manufac turers of Clermont-Ferrand.   destroyed by an earthquake in 1477.
       From the temple, retrace the route   ª Continue on the D983 along the
       on the Chemin de Ronde.  woods beside the Lac de Guéry. Turn
       ª Retrace the route to the D942    left at the next junction onto the D996
       and turn right for Mont-Dore. Take    passing Chambon-sur-Lac, with its
       the third exit at the roundabout    Romanesque chapel, on the left. At
       onto the D216, then the D27 for   Murol, turn right onto the D5 follow-
       Orcival. At the next junction, turn    ing signs for Besse.



                                                         ACTIVITIES IN THE AUVERGNE
                                                        Hiking and hang-gliding
                                                        www.auvergne-tourisme.info
                           CHEMIN DE RONDE
                                       Television
                                        Mast
                                                         WHERE TO EAT
                                        Meteorological
                                         Observatory
                                                        PUY DE DÔME
                                                        Le 1911 expensive
                                        Temple de       This gastronomic restaurant’s name
                                         Mercure
                                                        refers to the date of Renaux’s flying
                                     CHEMIN DE RONDE    feat. Offers great views on top of the
                                                        Puy de Dôme, and classic French cuisine.
             CHEMIN DE RONDE
                                                        Orcines, 63870; 04 73 87 43 02; open
                                                        daily, lunch (lunch & dinner Jul–Aug)
                                  Train Station
                            Visitor Centre              AROUND COL DE GUÉRY
                                                        Nôtre Dame inexpensive–moderate
                   CHEMIN DES MULETIERS  0 metres  100  This is a simple place to eat in Orcival,
                                                        9 km (6 miles) north of Col de Guéry.
                                                        myrtille (bilberry pie) for dessert.
                                        0 yards  100    Specialities include trout and tarte de
                                                        Orcival, 63210; 04 73 65 82 02; open
                                                        daily; closed Jan & Dec
                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40
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