Page 163 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 14: Volcanoes of the Auvergne 161

6 Pas de Peyrol 7 Salers
Cantal, Auvergne; 15400 Cantal, Auvergne; 15140
The Pas de Peyrol is a cramped In 1550, the modest town of Salers
three-way crossroads with barely was chosen to be the seat of the
enough space to accommodate a bailiff – the official charged with the
Visitors’ Centre and a bar-restaurant. dispensation of justice on behalf of
A flight of broad concrete steps sets the king – for the Auvergne moun-
off from here to the summit of Puy tains. This act transformed the town’s
Mary above. Allow 20–30 minutes to fortunes, as it attracted well-off
get to the top, where there are cairns families to settle here. They built
and a viewing table. themselves houses out of the dark
ª From the pass continue on the volcanic stone. The bailiwick dis-
D680, through forests, with occasional appeared with the French Revolution
views on the right. Fork left, uphill, of 1789, but Salers has managed to
still on the D680, for Salers. The trees survive as a harmonious collection Above Calm waters of Lac Pavin, surrounded by
eventually clear before the Col de of vernac ular Renaissance architec- lush green vegetation Below Pas de Peyrol and
Neronne (1,242 m/4,075 ft) emerges. ture super imposed on a medieval the summit of Puy Mary
Continue straight on, high above the street plan. The town’s church has
Maronne Valley to the left, to reach exqui site polychro matic tombs
WHERE TO EAT
the next stop, Salers. dating back to 1495.
BESSEETSTANASTAISE
Hotel de la Providence et de la
Poste inexpensive–moderate
Restaurant with a shady terrace where
Auvergne specialities are served.
2 rue de l’Abbé Blot, 63610; 04 73 79 51
49; www.hotel-providence-besse.com
AROUND CHEYLADE
Le Chalet du Puy Mary moderate
Located down the D62, 6 km (4 miles)
from Cheylade, this place offers an
inexpen sive daily menu.
Le Claux, 15400; 04 71 20 82 81;
www.lepuymary.com; open May–Nov
SALERS
Templiers inexpensive
The most popular restaurant in
Salers with Cantal cheese specialities
on the menu.
Rue de Couvent, 15140; 04 71 40 71 35;
closed Wed and Sun dinner
DAYTRIP OPTIONS in Orcines onto the D941. Vulcania is valleys of the Cantal. Drive to the Pas
Clermont-Ferrand (on the A71) and signposted off this road. Retrace the de Peyrol 6 and then climb up to
Salers (take the D680 from the D922) route to return to the city. the Puy Mary for great views.
are the best bases for day trips in
Amazing volcanoes Check the weather forecast with the
southwestern Auvergne.
Ascend the Puy de Dôme 2 for an tourist information office in Salers, and
Volcanic theme park incomparable view and then visit if the skies are clear drive the route in
Devote the better part of the day to Orcival and Murol. reverse up to the top of the Pas de
visiting Vulcania. As well as being an Using Clermont-Ferrand as a base, Peyrol and walk to the summit of Puy
educational family outing, this is also follow the tour route out of the city Mary. Descend from the Pas de Peyrol
a useful wet-weather option since and up the Puy de Dôme. Continue on into the Vallée de Mandailles on the
most of the displays are indoors. the route as far as Murol. Return to D17. Turn off right on the D246. Turn
Visitors can just enjoy the rides and Clermont-Ferrand by the D5 (north) right on the D35 and follow this road,
activities or use it to under stand the and turn right on the D2089.
becoming the D60, to Tournemire. Take
formation of the landscapes.
Valleys and mountains the D160 to meet the D922. Then turn
Leave Clermont-Ferrand as for the The town of Salers 7 makes a good right and right again on the D680 to
tour but turn right at the crossroads base for touring the mountains and return to Salers.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40