Page 162 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

160 BACK ROADS FRANCE

ª Continue on the D978. At Condat,
turn right onto the D678 towards Riom-
ès-Montagnes. Leave Riom on the D3.
At the round about take the third exit
onto the D49 and drive past the ruins
of the Château d’Apchon and through
St-Hippolyte to reach Cheylade.
5 Cheylade
Cantal, Auvergne; 15400
Stop at this little village to visit the
Église St-Léger. Look up to see
three vaults panelled with Naïve
poly chromatic paintings of flowers
and mythological beasts. The church
was rebuilt in the 15th century after
Above left Handsome buildings lining having being ruined in the Hundred
narrow streets in Besse-et-St-Anastaise 4 Besse-et-St-Anastaise Years’ War between the House of
Above right Hanging baskets of flowers Puy de Dôme, Auvergne; 63610 Valois and the House of Plantagenet.
on a wooden door in Besse-et-St-Anastaise Built from a grey volcanic stone on a The stunning ceiling paint ings are,
Below Medieval Église St-Léger in the town solidified flow of lava, Besse-et-St- however, a 17th-century addition.
of Cheylade Anastaise (also known by its previous ª Turn right from Cheylade onto the
name, Besse-en-Chandesse) is a D62 towards Salers and Puy Mary.
ACTIVITIES compact town of medieval and After Le Claux this road climbs to the
Renaissance houses and narrow, head of the valley, through woods, to
Vulcania Theme Park sloping streets. Its most significant the Col de Serre (1,364 m/4,475 ft).
08 20 82 78 28; www.vulcania.com;
open daily mid-Mar–mid-Nov; closed buildings are Château Murol, which Turn right here onto the D680 for the
mid-Nov–mid-Mar, Mon and Tue offers panoramic views and Pas de Peyrol and Salers. On reaching
Sep–Oct costumed guides, a fortified gate way the Pas de Peyrol, turn right towards
crowned by an octagonal belfry and Salers and park in the space provided
WHERE TO STAY a house where Marguerite de Valois on the downward slope.
suppos edly stayed while fleeing from
AROUND CHEYLADE her husband, King Henry IV. Leave Volcanic France
St-Georges inexpensive Besse on the D978 and at the The last volcanic eruption in the
Thirteen kilometres (8 miles) north of roundabout which serves the ski Auvergne, in the Chaîne des Puys,
Cheylade, this hotel is housed in a resort of Super-Besse, make a short was 7,000 years ago but many of
modernized 19th-century building in detour to the left to see Lac Pavin, a the volcanoes are consi dered
the middle of town. It also has a restau-
rant; a children’s menu is available. circular crater lake shrouded by trees, dormant rather than extinct. That is,
5 rue du Capitaine Chevalier, Riom-ès- which can be easily circum navigated another eruption at some point of
Montagnes, 15400; 04 71 78 00 15; in an hour’s stroll. Further down the time is “not improbable”. No one
www.hotel-saint-georges.com D978, Égliseneuve-d’Entraigues has a can be more specific than that:
SALERS Maison de la Fromage (Cheese where, when or how powerful it
might be is anyone’s guess.
Centre) that is open in summer.
Saluces moderate
This is the most charming of Salers’
hotels with eight tastefully decorated
rooms. Two chambres d’hôtes are
available in an annexe across the street
at a slightly cheaper price. The owner
is extremely knowledgeable about
the local area. Breakfast and teas are
served but there is no restaurant.
Rue de la Martille, 15140; 04 71 40 70
82; www.hotel-salers.fr
AROUND SALERS
Hostellerie de la Maronne moderate
This is a hotel and restaurant (Les Jardins
de Revel) in a quiet location, 6 km
(3 miles) below Salers. Rooms have flat-
screen TVs and Internet access. There
is also a garden and swimming pool.
Le Theil, 15140; 04 71 69 20 33;
www.maronne.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150