Page 198 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

196 BACK ROADS FRANCE

Above left Narrow road winding through
lush vegetation with the Mediterranean in the 1 Collioure onto the D618 again towards Palada
distance Above middle Cross near Vernet- Pyrénées-Orientales, Languedoc- and St Marsal. Drive past Prunet-et-
les-Bains Above right Picturesque Roussillon; 66190 Belpuig and signs for Boule d’Amont,
Romanesque church in Axiat The Côte Vermeille is where the and turn left onto the D84 to Serrabone.
Pyrenees meet the Mediterranean, a
coastline of secluded coves and rocky 3 Prieuré de Serrabone
headlands. Collioure is the gem of the Pyrénées-Orientales, Languedoc-
coast, a fishing port domi nated by the Roussillon; 66130
Château Royal (open daily), a massive Commanding a spectacular view of
fortress first estab lished by the the surrounding peaks, the priory
VISITING COLLIOURE
Templars in the 13th century and of Serrabonne is one of several
reinforced in 1669 by military engineer Romanesque abbeys in the Canigou
Tourist Information
Place 18 Juillet, 66190; 04 68 82 15 47; Vauban. The château offers views of Massif. The 12th-century abbey (open
www.collioure.com the port, with its cobbled streets, its daily) is built of local pink-veined
beaches and the 17th-century church, marble, with a single cloister arcade
Parking
Collioure can get very crowded in the Nôtre-Dames-des-Anges. South of overlooking the hills. Inside it has
summer season, and the main town the town is the Musée d’Art Moderne columns with carved capitals and a
car park around the château may be (open daily , except Tue Oct–May). tribune embellished with carved
full. An alternative is to park outside ª From Collioure take the D114 flowers, animals and human faces.
the town and take a shuttle service.
towards Argelès, then the D914 towards ª Return to the D618 and continue
Perpignan. At junction 11 turn right to Bouleternère and turn left onto the
onto the D618, towards Le Boulou. N116. At Prades, at the round about
WHERE TO STAY Follow Le Perthuson to the continue straight and then turn
D900, take the D618 towards left onto the D27 towards
COLLIOURE Maureillas, for Céret. Follow Abbaye St-Michel-de-Cuxà.
Les Templiers inexpensive–moderate directions to “Centre Ville”,
On the quayside of Collioure, this hotel where there is a free car park. 4 Abbaye
has rooms overlooking the harbour. It St-Michel-de-Cuxà
also has a traditional bar full of art, and
a good restaurant. 2 Céret Pyrénées-Orientales,
Quai de l’Amirauté, 66190; 04 68 98 Pyrénées-Orientales, Languedoc-Roussillon; 66500
31 10; www.hotel-templiers.com Languedoc-Roussillon; 66400 This ancient abbey (closed Sun
The town of Céret in the Vallespir, morning and religious holidays) is
Casa Païral moderate
This hotel is housed in a 19th-century the valley of the Tech river, is a superb setting for the annual
Catalan villa tucked away in the Old famous for its 14th-century Pablo Casals festival of chamber
Town with shady gardens and a bridge, the Pont du Diable. Carved pillar in music held between July
swimming pool. Céret’s shady squares, Villefranche-de-Conflent and August. Founded in
Impasse des Palmiers, 66190; 04 68 82
05 81; www.hotel-casa-pairal.com loggias, stuccoed walls and 878 by the Benedictines,
bull fighting arena give it a vibrant the abbey is a rare exam ple of pre-
CÉRET Spanish feel. Picasso and other artists Romanesque archi tec ture in France,
Del Bisbe inexpensive worked here and the splendid Musée with one great square tower remain-
This funky little Catalan hotel on a tiny d’Art Moderne celebrates their art ing, a huge stone barrel vault and a
square in Céret serves hearty regional
dishes, such as rabbit with aioli. (open daily, except Tue Oct–Apr). palm-vaulted crypt. The highlight is
4 place Soutine, 66400; 04 68 87 00 85 ª Take the D618 onto the D115 to the 12th-century cloisters of pink
www.hotelceret.com Amélie-les-Bains-Palalda and turn left marble columns and Romanesque
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150