Page 200 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

198 BACK ROADS FRANCE

8 Tarascon-sur-Ariège 0 Couserans
Ariège, Midi-Pyrénées; 09400 Midi-Pyrénées, Ariège; 09140
There is not much left of the old The southern Ariège, a group of
quarter of Tarascon, but enough to 18 valleys collectively known as the
justify an hour’s stroll up the Rue du Couserans, includes some of the
Barri and Rue Naugé to the Place remotest, most densely wooded and
Garrigou,where a square tower most sparsely popu lated landscapes
remains from the 14th-century Église in France. There is not a single pass
St-Michel. Another lonely tower, over the Pyrenees to the south for
the 18th-century belfry, presides almost 50 km (30 miles) in either
pictur esquely over the town. direction. The region’s flora includes
ª Leave Tarascon southwards on the chestnut, oak, hazel, beech and fir.
D618Y. Turn left at the roundabout The spa of Aulus is one of the main
towards Andorre and right at the towns of the Upper Couserans. The
second roundabout for Niaux onto the town has several walk ing routes. At
D8. Turn left at the end of Niaux and the roundabout in Aulus, turn left
follow the road uphill to visit the caves. and follow the D8 down the Vallée
d’Ustou to Seix, a popular spot for
9 Niaux outdoor activities. Turn left across the
Ariège, Midi-Pyrénées; 09400 river and take the D17 for the Port de
Niaux has some of the finest la Core (1,395 m/4,577 ft). Descend
prehistoric cave art in France and is into the Bethmale valley, passing the
carefully managed to allow as many scenic Étang de Bethmale lake. The
visitors as possible to see it, although road bypasses Aret but visitors may
Above Waterside cottage in Arreau Below daily numbers are limited and want to follow the signs to the work-
Picturesque rolling hills of the Col d’Aspin advance reservation is essential. The shop of one of the Ariège’s last tra di-
between Arreau and La Mongie striking black-outlined paintings of tional sabotiers (clog makers). At the
bison and horses in the Salon Noir end of the valley turn right onto the
are estimated to be 13,000 years old. D4 towards St-Girons, go through
VISITING NIAUX
The nearby Park of Prehistoric Art Castillon-en-Couserans, and turn
displays replicas of these paintings. left onto the D618. Cross St-Lary, a
Reservations
05 61 05 10 10 ª From Niaux, continue driving on pop ular ski resort, and continue on
the D8 to Vicdessos. Cross the river the D618 to cross the Col de Portet
and turn right onto the D18 towards d’Aspet pass (1,069 m/3,507 ft), often
WHERE TO STAY
Aulus-les-Bains. Ascend to the Port de part of the Tour de France cycle race.
Lers (1,517 m/4,977 ft) and then climb ª From the Col de Portet d’Aspet turn
ARREAU
over the Col d’Agnes (1,570 m/5,151 ft). left onto the D85; go straight onto the
Hotel d’Angleterre moderate
This old coaching inn, which was a Turn left at the T-junction onto the D44 and cross Col de Menté (1,349m/
favourite stopover for the 19th-century D8F that leads to Aulus. 4,427 ft) to descend into St-Béat.
pioneer mountaineer Henry Russell, is
now a modernized hotel-restaurant
run by the Aubiban family. It has 17
rooms and Gascon and Pyrenean
dishes on the menu.
Route de Luchon, 65240; 05 62 98 63
30; www.hotel-angleterre-arreau.com
PIC DU MIDI DE BIGORRE
Pic du Midi expensive
A night spent in the observatory at the
top of the Pic du Midi can be an unfor-
get table part of a visit to the Pyrenees.
The cable-car ride, dinner and a guided
tour of one of the telescope domes are
all part of the overnight package, but
the highlight is to watch the sunrise in
the morning. The rooms are very simple,
none en suite but all have stunning
views. An unbeatable treat which needs
to be reserved well in advance.
Rue Pierre Lamy de la Chapelle, La
Mongie, 65200; 08 25 00 28 77; www.
picdumidi.com; open on specific days
of the year only
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150