Page 199 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 18: The Pyrenees: End to End 197

EAT AND DRINK
World Heritage Site, with pink marble
paths, beauti fully restored dwellings
COLLIOURE
and shops sell ing leather and pot-
Le Neptune expensive
tery. The 12th-century Église de
A wonderfully positioned restaurant
St-Jacques has fine carved capitals
on rocks overlooking the sea, Le
and a 13th-century oak door embel- Neptune is known for its gourmet
lished with intricate ironwork. An treatment of local specialities such as
under ground passage of 1,000 steps lobster and Collioure’s own anchovies.
Route de Port-Vendres, 66190; 04 68 82
leads to Fort Libéria high above the
02 27; www.leneptune-collioure.com;
gorge. Nearby are the Grottes des
closed Tue, Wed (low season)
Canalettes, a labyrinth of stalactites
and stalag mites. Visitors can take the AROUND ABBAYE
Petit Train Jaune from here up to STMICHELDECUXÀ
the Cerdagne mountain plateau. Casa de l’Olivier inexpensive
Located 7 km (4 miles) from St-Michel-
ª Take the N116 to Prades, the D619
de-Cuxà, Casa de l’Olivier stands in the
to Catllar, then the D14 towards Mosset.
small village of Catllar, just outside
capitals, carved with various mythical Then follow the D84 towards Roquefort; Prades. This small restaurant has a big
animals and local flora. take the D17 towards Axat and turn terrace and serves tapas, steaks and
ª Continue on the D27, which winds left onto the D118 and then the D25 seafood, all fresh, home-made and
locally sourced. There is also jazz on
its way through the villages of Taurinya towards Le Puech and Le Pla. Follow
summer nights.
and Fillols, arriving at Vernet-les-Bains. signs to Mijanes and Ax-les-Thermes.
Place République, Catllar 66500;
After Ascou, turn right on the D613 for 04 30 45 60 42; closed Mon, Sun dinner
5 Vernet-les-Bains the Col du Chioula and the Col de
VILLEFRANCHEDECONFLENT
Pyrénées-Orientales, Languedoc- Marmare and turn left onto the D20,
Auberge St Paul moderate–expensive
Roussillon; 66820 the Route des Corniches.
With a gentle, sheltered climate and This chic restaurant in a converted
13th-century chapel in the centre of
wonderful views of Mont Canigou, 7 Route des Corniches the town has its own terrace and
Vernet-les-Bains is a tranquil spa Ariège, Midi-Pyrénées; 09250 serves local specialities with a modern,
town. In its heyday, Vernet hosted The D20 provides a scenic drive to eclectic twist. It also offers a good
choice of wine.
several famous visitors, including Tarascon. Soon after Bestiac, the road
7 place Église, 66500; 04 68 96 30 95;
writers Rudyard Kipling and Hans passes under the cable car linking the
www.auberge-st-paul.fr; closed
Christian Andersen. The town is one world’s largest talc quarry to the valley Mon, Tue (low season). Dinner by
of the starting points for climbs of below at Luzenac. Shortly after comes reservation only
Mont Canigou, the focus of Catalan the ruined Château de Lordat. After
devo tion, with a great iron cross cross ing the Gérul river, which makes
perched on the summit and exten- a pretty waterfall, visitors reach Axiat
sive views of sea and mountains. Take which has a Romanesque church.
the D116 south of Vernet to Casteil ª Pass over the top of Bompas to
to reach the Abbaye de St-Martin- reach a T-junction with the D618. Turn
du-Canigou (open daily, closed Jan, Mon left into Tarascon and park near the Below Relaxed café in a village square near
Oct–May, guided tours only). From the bridge to explore the old town. Vernet-les-Bains
village of Casteil, a 40-minute walk
leads to the abbey perched on a
craggy rock. It was founded in the
early 11th-century by Guilfred, Count
of Cerdagne. Visitors can see the tiny
tomb he carved for himself, as well as
the 11th-century cloisters.
ª Once back at Casteil take the D116
north through Vernet-les-Bains to
Villefranche-de-Conflent.
6 Villefranche-de-Conflent
Pyrénées-Orientales, Languedoc-
Roussillon; 66500
This town of stone ramparts guarding
the narrowest point of the Têt Valley
has been a fortress since the Middle
Ages, reinforced by Vauban in the
17th century. It is now a UNESCO