Page 204 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

202 BACK ROADS FRANCE

i St-Savin via the ski resort of Gourette and the
Hautes-Pyrénées, Midi-Pyrénées; 65400 spa town of Eaux-Bonnes into the
The 12th-century Romanesque Église valley itself. At the junction of the
de St-Savin and chapterhouse at the D918 and D934, turn right into Laruns,
heart of this Pyrenean village are all home to the Château d’Espalungue,
that remains of a Benedictine monas- made famous in The Three Musketeers
tery. The church was built to house – it is where the musket eer Aramis is
the relics of the 9th-century hermit said to have died. Turning left here,
St-Savin. It still preserves a number of make a detour to Fabrèges to take
valu able works of sacred art, including a breathtaking ride in the narrow-
a 14th-century ciborium (a cup with gauge Petit Train d’Artouste, which
an arched cover) and 15th-century runs along a winding ledge at a
paintings of the life of the saint. height of 2,000 m (6,500 ft). Back in
A short walk south of the centre of Laruns turn right onto the D240 for
town is the pretty, isolated Chapelle Béost, cross the bridge and turn left,
de Piétat with its distinctive bell tower. still on the D240, towards Aste-Béon.
Built in the late 15th century, the In Béon turn left onto the D290, pass-
chapel was greatly expanded during ing the Falaise aux Vautours, a vulture
the 18th century. Dedicated to Our observatory. Cross the bridge and go
Lady of Mercy, it stands in an elevated over the rounda bout onto the D934
position above the Vallée d’Argelès for Bielle, home to the 15th- to
and its balcony offers lovely views. 16th-century church of St-Vivien.
Above Isolated house at the foot of a hill on ª Take the slope down beside the Drive through Bielle, then turn left
the outskirts of Ste-Engrâce Below Église de St-Savin towards Argelès- onto the D294 for Bilhères. Go
Romanesque Église de Ste-Engrâce Gazost on the D101. At the roundabout through it, climbing steeply, towards
in Argelès turn left onto the D918 the Col de Marie-Blanque. The road
towards Col d’Aubisque to drive curves around the Chapelle de
through the Vallée d’Ossau. Houndas. Cross the Col de Marie-
Blanque, a popular pass with cyclists,
o Vallée d’Ossau leaving the Vallée d’Ossau behind.
Pyrénées-Atlantiques, Aquitaine; 64440 ª Descend to Escot and turn left on
The route from Argelès through the the D238 towards Sarrance. Reaching
Vallée d’Ossau, which encompasses the main road turn left on the N134. At
18 communes and is one of the Sarrance, turn off right onto the D241
Béarn’s three major valleys, is a spec- for Lourdios-Ichère and continue
tacular one. It goes over two passes, through it to reach a three-way cross-
first the Col de Soulor (1,474 m/ roads. Go straight over onto a road
4,836 ft) and then the Col d’Aubisque marked “Col de Labays, Accès Pierre St
(1,709 m/ 5,607 ft), a popular win ter Martin”. At the T-junction turn right
sports destination and part of the onto the D441 for Arette-Pierre-St-
Tour de France, before descend ing Martin. At the Col de Labays turn left

WHERE TO STAY
AROUND ÉGLISE DE
STEENGRÂCE
Auberge Elichalt inexpensive
Directly opposite Ste-Engrâce’s
Romanesque church is this simple inn
run by the Burguburu family. It has
four bed-and-breakfast rooms and
more beds in a dormitory. As well as
full meals, sandwiches and home-
made cakes are also available.
Ste-Engrâce, 64560; 05 59 28 61 63;
www.gites-burguburu.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150