Page 207 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 18: The Pyrenees: End to End 205

f La Rhune g St-Jean-de-Luz
Col de Saint Ignace; 64310 Pyrénées-Atlantiques; 64500
Located at the western end of the Together with Ciboure, its neigh-
Pyrenees, La Rhune is right on the bour, St-Jean-de-Luz is one of the
border bet ween France and Spain. prettiest and liveliest resorts on the
The wooden coaches of a cog Basque coast, with an excellent long,
railway, the Petit Train de la Rhune, sandy beach. Almost swallowed by
ascend from this low saddle to the the bars and souvenir shops on the
summit of Massif de la Rhune, a main street of the town is the church,
900-m (2,952-ft) mountain overlook- the Église St-Jean-Baptiste, in which
ing the Basque coast. Once the train the Sun King Louis XIV married the
reaches the top of the mountain, Spanish Infanta Marie-Thérèse in
visitors step out from it and in a few 1660 in order to cement a trans-
paces are over the border in Spain, Pyrenean treaty. The door by which
where ventas (inns) await. La Rhune the couple left was immediately and
is also known for its several hiking forever blocked up. This galleried
trails and the adventurous can reach church, with a stunning 17th-century
the summit on foot. altar piece, can still be visited today. Above Bright blue door and windows adding
ª Descend from the Col de St-Ignace Also visit the Maison Louis XIV (open colour to a stone house in Ainhoa Left Hikers
to Ascain and follow the signs through Apr–Oct; closed Tue), where the king climbing up the rugged Massif de la Rhune
the town to St-Jean-de-Luz. stayed in 1660.
EAT AND DRINK
ESPELETTE
Hotel Euzkadi inexpensive
This restaurant serves Basque
specialities flavoured with Espelette
pepper, including axoa, made with
veal, green peppers and garlic, and
pipérade, made with ham, tomatoes
and green peppers.
285 Karrika Nagusia, 64250; 05 59 93
91 88;www.hotel-restaurant-euzkadi.
com; closed Mon, Tue, Nov–Jan
AINHOA
Ithurria moderate–expensive
This is a 17th-century house converted
into a restaurant and hotel. The menu
includes Basque dishes.
Place du Fronton, 64250; 05 59 29 92
11; www.ithurria.com; closed Wed, Thu
except Jul–Aug, Nov-Apr
DAYTRIP OPTIONS Mountain heights d’Aubisque and Vallée d’Ossau o.
The following day trips are best done The city of Lourdes is an ideal base
Leave Pau on the D937 towards Lourdes.
from Céret (on the D115), Lourdes (on for a day’s circuit of the highest parts
Turn right on the D35 and left on to the
the N21), Pau (on the A64) and St- of the Pyrenees, including a cable-
D126 for Col du Soulor. Turn right to
Jean-de-Luz (on the A63) respectively. car trip to the Pic du Midi r and a follow the itinerary but stay on the
visit either to the Cirque de Gavarnie
Catalan France D934 at Bielle to return to Pau.
Use Céret 2 as a base to visit the y or the Pont d’Espagne u. Amazing coastline
priory at Serrabone 3 before conti- From Lourdes take the D937 and D935 St-Jean-de-Luz g makes the best
nuing to Prades and the abbey of to Bagnères-de-Bigorre and turn right base for exploring the pretty French
St-Michel-de-Cuxà 4. Continue to on the D935 joining the route at Ste- Basque Country, including the towns
the spa of Vernet-les-Bains 5 and Marie-de-Campan. Follow the route to of Sare, Ainhoa d, Espelette s and
Villefranche-de-Conflent 6. Argelès-Gazost and continue down the St-Jean-Pied-de-Port a.
valley back to Lourdes on the D821.
From Céret, follow the itinerary, but on From St-Jean-de-Luz drive the route in
reaching Prades for the second time Impressive mountain passes reverse to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Return
stay on the N116 and follow the route From Pau, drive through the Béarn’s in the direction of the route but stay on
in reverse to return to Céret. spectacular Col du Soulor, Col the D918 for a more direct route back.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40