Page 237 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 22: The Riviera Artists’ Trail 235

EAT AND DRINK
NICE
Fenocchio inexpensive
This serves possibly the tastiest
icecream in the world. Over 100 hand-
made varieties on offer range from the
traditional (chocolate, walnut) to the
bizarre (basil, olive).
2 place Rossetti, 06300; 04 93 80 72 52;
closed mid Nov–mid Feb
Brasserie L’F moderate
This brasserie is located at the eastern
end of Nice’s pedestrianized Cours
Saleya. Crispy pizzas, abundant salads
and seasonal plats du jour make up
the menu.
6 place Charles Félix, 06300; 04 93 85
74 10
Anglais and the Quai des États-Unis Tuiliéres, which becomes Ave Renoir AROUND CAGNESSURMER
to visit Galerie des Ponchettes w (D36). Continue on the D36 to Vence, Josy-Jo moderate–expensive
(open Tue–Sun), where Matisse held passing Saint-Paul-de-Vence on the Located in the former home of artists
his first exhibi tion in Nice. Retrace left. Follow signs to Vieux-Vence and Amedeo Modigliani and Chaim
Soutine in Haut-de-Cagnes a kilometre
the route to the car park at the Quai on reaching the Old Town turn left at
(half a mile) north of Cagnes-sur-Mer,
des États-Unis. the junction and follow the road into
Michelin-starred Josy-Jo has been a
ª Follow the voie rapide west to the Place du Grand Jardin, where there is must-visit since it opened in 1970. Go
airport, where it becomes D6007, into a car park (to gain entry into the car for the Provençal starters such as cour-
Cagnes-sur-Mer. At the fork bear right park it is necessary to take the first gette flower fritters, or the char-grilled
meats, including leg of Sisteron lamb.
onto Avenue Cyrille Besset (D36), then left after crossing the square into a
2 rue du Planastel, Haut-de-Cagnes,
right again onto Avenue des Tuiliéres, one way system). 06800; 04 93 20 68 76;
then a quick left onto Chemin des www.restaurant-josyjo.com;
Collettes following brown signs for 3 Vence open dinner only; closed Mon
Musée Renoir. Park in the car park. Alpes-Maritimes, Provence-Alpes-Côte
VENCE
d’Azur; 06140
Les Agapes moderate
Voie Rapide A well-signposted 15-minute walk The restaurant offers contemporary
An elevated motorway, Nice’s voie northwest of Vence’s town centre cuisine on a shady terrace.
rapide connects the city’s port is the joyful Chapelle du Rosaire 4 place Clemenceau, 06140; 04 93 58
neighbourhood with the air port. (open Mon–Thu and Sat, closed mid- 50 64; closed Mon, Sun Sep–Jun
The expressway provides one of Nov–mid-Dec). It was designed by
the finest driving experiences in an Henri Matisse as an act of gratitude Above View to Haut-de-Cagnes from
urban area. Travelling from east to to his former nurse, Dominican nun the gardens of Musée Renoir, Cagnes-sur-
west, look out for the multicoloured Sister Jacques-Marie. It is located Mer Below Russian Orthodox Église Saint-
onion domes of Russian Orthodox across the road from Villa Le Rêve, Nicolas in Nice
Église St-Nicolas on the right.
Matisse’s residence in Vence from
1943 to 1949. In the Old Town, the
2 Cagnes-sur-Mer Ancienne Cathédrale de la Nativité
Alpes-Maritimes, Provence-Alpes-Côte de Notre-Dame houses Marc
d’Azur; 06800 Chagall’s mosaic, Moses Saved from
Pierre-Auguste Renoir spent the last the Waters. The paintings, now
12 years of his life in this resort town located in Nice’s Musée Marc Chagall,
in a house that is now the Musée were originally created to adorn the
Renoir (open Wed–Mon). Rather than a walls of this cathedral; the final
com prehensive collection of paint- location had to be changed due to
ings, the museum offers a peek at the the high humidity within the church.
artist’s home, original furni shings, ª On exiting the car park, take
possessions and ten of his paintings. Avenue de la Résistance west to Place
Visit Renoir’s studio, as he left it, or Maréchal Juin. At the roundabout,
admire the view to medieval Haut-de- take the third exit onto Avenue Émile
Cagnes from the garden of citrus and Hugues (D236), which leads south to
500-year-old olive trees. Route de Saint-Paul (D2). At the edge
ª Head back down Chemin de of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, park in
Collettes and turn right for Avenue des Parking Sainte-Clare, on the left.