Page 238 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France
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236 BACK ROADS FRANCE


        WHERE TO STAY
                               4 Saint-Paul-de-Vence
                               Alpes-Maritimes, Provence-Alpes-Côte
       SAINTPAULDEVENCE
                               d’Azur;  06570
       Hostellerie Les Remparts moderate  Picture-perfect on a hilltop and ringed
       The hotel is located in the heart of
       pedestrianized Saint-Paul-de-Vence   by ramparts, Saint-Paul-de-Vence has
       and has pretty Provençal rooms.    long been a magnet for both artists
       72 rue Grande, 06570;  04 93 24 10 47;   and visitors to the French Riviera. Marc
       www.hostellerielesremparts.com  Chagall is buried in the pretty ceme-
                               tery. Just west of town, Fondation
       ANTIBES
                               Maeght (open daily) was set up by art
       Le Bastide de la Brague moderate
       Situated only a 10-minute drive from   dealers Marguerite and Aimé Maeght
       Antibes port, this family-run bed-and-  in 1964. Its permanent collection
       breakfast has double rooms and a   (partially in storage during annual
       friendly atmosphere. Enjoy an excellent   summer exhibitions) includes works
       dinner eaten with your hosts.
       55 avenue No 6, Antibes, 06600; 04 93 65   by Pierre Bonnard, Alberto Giacometti
       73 78                   and a garden labyrinth by Joan Miró.
                               ª From the car park take the D7, then   6 Antibes
       CANNES
                               the D336 to Cagnes-sur-Mer. Turn right   Alpes-Maritimes, Provence-Alpes-Côte
       Hotel 3.14 expensive    onto the D136 which merges with the   d’Azur;  06600
       Each of this hotel’s five floors has a   D6007, passing behind Marina Baie des   These days Antibes’ Port Vauban may
       different continent as its theme. Guests
       can lounge at the ultra-cool 3.14 beach   Anges, an iconic apartment complex.   boast a strip of moorings known as
       club, or beside the rooftop pool.    Turn right onto the D4 and park at one   Billionaire’s Quay, but the fishing
       5 rue François Einesy, 06400; 04 92 99   of Biot’s signposted car parks.  village’s first superstar resident was
       72 00; www.3-14hotel.com                        Impressionist artist Claude Monet in
                               5 Biot                  1888. Nearly 60 years later, in 1946,
                               Alpes-Maritimes, Provence-Alpes-Côte   Pablo Picasso set up studio in the
                               d’Azur;  06410          nearby Château Grimaldi. Now the
                               Sleepy, even during summer’s peak,   Musée Picasso (open Tue–Sun), it is
                               medieval Biot is renowned for its   home to a collection of the artist’s
                               “bubble” glass. To see glassblowers    paint ings, drawings and ceramics.
                               in action, pick up a Chemin des   ª Follow signs for the Antibes railway
                               Verriers leaflet and map of the town’s   station, then follow the signs to Cannes
                               workshops from the tourist office.   on the D6107. At Golfe-Juan, turn right
                               Just south of town is the Musée   for Route de Vallauris (on the D135),
                               Fernand Léger (open Wed–Mon). The   which leads to Vallauris’ town centre.
                               bright white space makes a striking
                               contrast with Léger’s colour ful   7 Vallauris
                               paintings, while the garden café is   Alpes-Maritimes, Provence-Alpes-Côte
                               an idyllic lunch spot.  d’Azur;  06220
       Above Sun-dappled corner in Biot’s Old Town   ª Take the D4 back to the D6098.   Vallauris is famous for artisan pottery.
       Below Saint-Paul-de-Vence perched    Head  south to Antibes, keeping left to   Its ceramic industry was revitalized
       on a hilltop            reach the port’s many car parks.  in the early 1950s, primarily due to
                                                       Picasso’s passion. Galerie Madoura
                                                       (open Mon–Fri), where Picasso created
                                                       the bulk of his ceramics, has pieces for
                                                       sale, as well as photographs of Picasso
                                                       and Chagall working side by side. On
                                                       Place Paul Isnard stands Picasso’s
                                                       bronze L’Homme au Mouton, depict-
                                                       ing a shepherd carrying a sheep. On
                                                       the adjoining Place de la Libération
                                                       is the Château-Musée de Vallauris,
                                                       home to the Musée National Picasso
                                                       La Guerre et La Paix (open Wed–Mon).
                                                       Picasso’s last major politi cal artwork,
                                                       the 1952 La Guerre et La Paix (War and
                                                       Peace), is installed in the château’s
                                                       12th-century Romanesque chapel.
                                                       ª Retrace the D135 to Golfe-Juan,
                                                       and head west on the D6007 to
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