Page 239 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 22: The Riviera Artists’ Trail 237

casino that now hosts contemporary Left Popular beach in Cannes during the peak
art exhibitions. The promenade runs season Below Ceramics in vibrant colours on
alongside one of the finest beaches sale in Vallauris
of Côte d'Azur.
ª Retrace the route to Place du 18
Juin. Drive straight down, across the
square, following signs for Le Cannet
and Grasse, on Boulevard Sadi Carnot
(D6285). Follow signs for Grasse
(ignore signs for Mougins on the N85)
until arriving at a large roundabout
(over the A8). Take the second exit off
the round about, signposted for
EAT AND DRINK
Grasse, onto the dual carriageway, the
D6185, and exit at Mougins. The car SAINTPAULDEVENCE
park is at the foot of the town.
Café de la Place
Cannes. On approaching Cannes, turn inexpensive–moderate
right at the roundabout following signs 9 Mougins Marc Chagall’s preferred breakfast spot,
for Le Cannet. At Place du 18 Juin, take Alpes-Maritimes, Provence-Alpes-Côte this café is placed alongside a sun-
the second left onto the narrow road to d’Azur; 06250 dappled pétanque (French boules) pitch.
Place Général de Gaulle, 06570; 04 93
Boulevard de la Croisette. Turn right at This picturesque medieval village
32 80 03; closed Nov–mid Dec
the T-junction, following signs for the offers sweeping views over Cannes
old port, where Parking Laubeuf is and the Mediterranean below. Spend La Colombe d’Or expensive
Paul Roux, the venue’s original owner,
situated on the western quay. an afternoon wandering around its
was a passionate collector of art, who
cobbled alleys, or stop at the Musée encouraged artists to trade artworks in
8 Cannes de la Photographie André Villers (open lieu of payment. Treasures by Picasso,
Alpes-Maritimes, Provence-Alpes-Côte daily Jan–Aug, Mon only Sep–Dec). Villers’ Raoul Dufy and Georges Braque, among
d’Azur; 06400 black-and-white photos of Picasso many others, now pack the guesthouse
and restaurant’s public spaces.
One of the top Mediterranean resort chronicle the last 15 years of the
Place Général de Gaulle, 06570; 04 93
towns, Cannes has been attracting the artist’s life, which he spent in Mougins. 32 80 02; www.la-colombe-dor.com;
world’s most famous visitors for over closed Nov–mid Dec
a century. The Palais des Festivals et
BIOT
des Congrès, where the Cannes Film
Le Jarrier moderate–expensive
Festival takes place every year in May,
Highly acclaimed, this restaurant is
was built in its present form between located in Biot’s medieval centre. Pride
1979 and 1982. Cruise along the of place is given to the seasonal menu,
Promenade de la Croisette, on which which changes each fortnight: find
cherry tomato and strawberry soup
stands the town’s landmark Hotel
in June, and sea bream with figs
Carlton, a 1911 belle-époque wonder.
in September.
It is also home to the Centre d'Art 30 passage La Bourgade, 06410; 04 92
Malmaison (closed Mon), a former 95 97 79
DAYTRIP OPTIONS invented and F. Scott Fitzgerald’s find themselves drawn to the simple
The Côte d’Azur is packed with Tender is the Night was set. Nearby yet enchanting Musée de la
museums and arty hot spots. No Juan-les-Pins also hosts Europe’s Photographie André Villers, as well
matter where visitors are based, the oldest jazz festival every July – as the town’s incredible vistas over
D6007 provides easy access to both Charles Mingus, Miles Davis, Ray Cannes 8 and the Mediterranean
of the following day trips. Charles, Ella Fitzgerald and Herbie Sea. In the afternoon, head downhill
Antibes and the Cap Hancock have all performed here. to take in Cannes’ busy shops and
Its Old Town ringed by amber-hued The D6098 connects Antibes to the light smattering of galleries. Visitors
stone walls, Antibes 6 has been D2559, which runs around the Cap should pack their paints – both
a popular seaside destination for d’Antibes. Mougins and Cannes offer plenty of
close to a century. Wander its inspiration to artists.
colourful flowery lanes, or visit the Art and nature
newly renovated Musée Picasso. Spend the morning in the Head west along the D6007 to Cannes.
Around the corner, Cap d’Antibes is picturesque medieval village of Turn right onto the D6185, following
where Coco Chanel made suntans Mougins 9, exploring its cobble- signs for Mougins. The public car park
fashionable, water-skiing was stoned alleys. Aspiring artists will is on the left at the base of the town.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40