Page 249 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 23: Vineyards of Provence 247

Above left Tranquil beach in Île de
the day, relax at one of charming La vineyards on the Vin et Terroir route. Porquerolles Above right Boats moored at
Cadière’s pavement cafés. Cassis was an important trading port the Old Port in Sanary-sur-Mer
ª Continue west on the D66, passing before the Nazis almost wiped out its
through St-Cyr-sur-Mer. Take the D559 entire fleet during World War II. Much
west to La Ciotat and then Cassis. of the town’s history can be discov-
EAT AND DRINK
Descending from the roundabout near ered at the charming Musée
junction 8 of the A50, take the first Municipal Méditerranéen (open Wed– ÎLE DE PORQUEROLLES
right, marked “Les Julots”, through the Sat Jun–Sep) ,which has many interest-
L’Arche de Noé moderate–expensive
vineyards to reach the town centre. ing exhibits, some recovered from the Mouthwatering bouillabaisse and
seabed, dating back to the Greeks. bourride grace the menu here.
w Cassis Place d’Armes, 83400; 04 94 58 33 71;
www.larcheporquerolles.com; closed
Bouches-du-Rhône, Provence-Alpes- The Calanques
Tue Apr–Jun Sep–Oct, all of Nov–Mar
Côte d’Azur; 13260 A great limestone cliff that spans the
Hemmed in by the white cliffs of 20 km (12 miles) between Marseilles LA CADIÈRE D’AZUR
the Calanques to the west and the and Cassis, the Massif des Calanques Hostellerie Bérard expensive
precipitous Route des Crêtes to the forms one of France’s most breath- Father and son team René and Jean-
taking stretches of coastline. Peaks François Bérard pair seasonal ingre-
east, Cassis is a lively little port and a
rise over 500 m (1,640 ft), while the dients with locally sourced wines.
great tourist destination for families.
shore below harbours minuscule La Cadière d’Azur, 83740; 04 94 90 11
Restaurants line the quays, and sunny
white sand inlets; hike, kayak or cycle 43; www.hotel-berard.com; closed
days see holidaymakers crowd Plage across the rugged natural landscape. Mon and Tue May–Oct, Jan–mid-Feb
de la Grand Mer. A dozen domaines The Calanques is a pro tected area,
encircle the town, boasting renowned and may be closed on hot summer CASSIS
AOP Cassis whites; visit Le Clos Sainte days due to the risk of forest fire. Be Le Bistrot moderate
Magdeleine (open Mon–Fri), where sure to check with the Cassis tourist Excellent daily specials and tasty
Neapolitan-style pizza are served here.
office (www.ot-cassis.com) before
vineyards cling to the steep cliffs of Place du Grand Carnot, 13260;
setting off.
Cap Canaille, and hike through the 04 42 01 07 59
DAYTRIP OPTIONS alternatively, take Avenue Maréchal sample some fine wines at the
Visitors should base themselves either Foch, which becomes Avenue Pierre Château de Brégançon.
between Cassis and Bandol, or in Imbert. Turn right onto the Route des
From Saint-Tropez take the D93 along
Saint-Tropez, where the D559 provides Crêtes. Hikers can follow the same
easy access to the following day trips. route up Avenue du Revestel. The the coast, straight to Ramatuelle. From
Calanques to the west of Cassis can here take the D61 to Gassin and then
Breathtaking coastline only be accessed by boat or kayak from the D559 to Bormes-les-Mimosas.
Explore the cliffs and coves that the port, or on foot.
surround Cassis w. Hop on one of Resort town and beaches
many boats departing from the port. Vineyard tour Stroll around the streets of the resort
On mornings from July to August, Spend the morning looping through town of Hyères 7, before heading
the vineyards around the hilltop to La Tour Fondue, from where
disembark at the Calanque d’en Vau
village of Ramatuelle 3. Next visit
and hike back to town. For those visitors can take a ferry ride to the Île
the Château Minuty and the village
who have an aversion to exercise, de Porquerolles 8. Spend the rest
opt for a clifftop drive from Cassis to of Gassin 4, with rolling vine yards of the day on its pristine beaches.
La Ciotat along the Route des Crêtes. on either side, to taste some of the
wines of this region. Spend the The D559 provides easy access to Hyères.
The Route des Crêtes (D141) is clearly afternoon at Bormes-les-Mimosas 6 From Hyères, take the D197 to La Tour
signposted from the centre of Cassis; and follow the Route de Léoube to Fondue and then a ferry to the island.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40