Page 75 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Milan & The Lakes
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NOR THWEST  MILAN      73

       q Casa degli        was completed in 1490.
       Atellani and        Two years later Lodovico il
       Vigna di Leonardo   Moro asked Bramante to
                           change the church into the
       Corso Magenta 65. Map 6 F1.    family mausoleum: Solari’s
       Tel 02-48 16 150. q 1, 2 Cadorna,    apse section was demolished
       1 Conciliazione. v 16, 19.    and replaced by a Renaissance
       Open 9am–6pm daily. Closed 1 Jan,    apse. After il Moro lost power
       1 May, 2 Jun, 25 & 26 Dec. 7   in 1500, the Dominicans
       ∑ vignadileonardo.com   continued to decorate the
                           church, later assisted by the
       Ludovico il Moro Sforza,    court of Inquisition, which
       Duke of Milan, wanted    had moved here in 1558.
       to create a residential   Restor ation was undertaken
       neighbourhood where he    only in the late 19th century.
       could establish his most    In 1943 a bomb destroyed
       loyal followers. In 1490, he    the main cloister, but the
       gave houses to the Atellani   apse and the room containing   The ogival arches in the nave of Santa
       family of Sforza courtiers and    Leonardo’s Last Supper were   Maria delle Grazie
       to Leonardo da Vinci. In 1498,   miraculously left intact;
       he also gave Leonardo a   restoration work has continued   next chapel is a Crucifixion
       vineyard. Casa degli Atellani    since then. On the exterior,   by Giovanni Demìo (1542).
       is one of the few traces left    Solari’s wide brick façade is     The apse, decorated only
       of Ludovico’s Renaissance   worthy of note. The doorway   with graffiti to maintain the
       dream. Over the course of    was designed by Bramante;    purity of the architectural
       the 20th century, it was   it is preceded by a porch   volumes, is a perfect cube
       transformed by Piero    supported by Corinthian   crowned by a hemisphere.
       Portaluppi, a major Milanese   columns and the lunette    It was built to house the
       architect, while still retaining    has a painting by Leonardo    tomb of Lodovico il Moro
       its grandeur. Both the house   da Vinci with the Madonna   and Beatrice d’Este, but the
       and the vineyard in the garden   between Lodovico and his    work never reached Santa
       are open to the public.  wife, Beatrice d’Este. The    Maria delle Grazie (it is now
                           sides and poly gonal apse    in the Charterhouse of Pavia).
                           are also of interest. As you   The decoration of the dome
       w Santa Maria       enter the church you notice   is rich in Marian symbols,
       delle Grazie        the difference between    while the Doctors of the
                           Solari’s nave, which echoes   Church appear in the roundels
       Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie.    Lombard Gothic architecture –   in the pendentives. The carved
       Map 2 F5. Tel 02-46 76 111. q 1, 2   entirely covered with frescoes   and inlaid wooden stalls of the
       Cadorna, 1 Conciliazione. v 16.   and with ogival arches – and   choir are lovely.
       Open 7am–noon, 3–7pm Mon–Sat,   Bramante’s design for the      A door on the right leads
       7:30am–12:15pm, 3:30–8:15pm Sun.   apse, which is larger, better    to the small cloister known as
       5 7:30, 8 (except Jul–mid-Sep),
       8:30 & 9:30am, 6:30pm Mon–Sat;   lit and is almost bare of   Chiostrino delle Rane because
                           decoration. The two parts of
                                               of the frogs (rane) in the central
       6:30pm pre-hols; 7, 9:30, 10:30 &
       11:30am, 6:30 & 8pm (except Jul &   the church reflect Bramante’s   basin. The cloister leads to the
       Aug) hols.          impact on Milanese culture;    old sacristy, with its painted
                           he introduced the Renaissance   wardrobes, one of which
       Construction of this church   style that dominated Tuscany   conceals a secret underground
       designed by Guiniforte    and Umbria in the early 15th   passageway, used by Lodovico
       Solari, began in 1463 and    century. The all-pervasive   to come from the Castello on
                           painting decora tion of the    horseback. Back in the church,
                           aisle walls is by Bernardino   the chapels in the north aisle
                           Butinone and Donato   begin with the Madonna delle
                           Montorfano (1482–6). The    Grazie chapel, with Cerano’s
                           Della Torre chapel is the first   Madonna Freeing Milan of the
                           one in the right-hand aisle:    Plague (1631) on the entrance
                           the altar has a 15th-century   archway. The altarpiece,
                           fresco and to the left is the   Madonna delle Grazie, dates
                           tomb of Giacomo Della Torre,   from the 15th century. The
                           with bas-relief sculpture by    sixth chapel has a Holy
                           the Cazzaniga brothers (1483).   Family with St Catherine by
                           The fourth chapel, dedicated    Paris Bordone, and the first
       The façade of Santa Maria delle Grazie,   to Santa Corona, has frescoes   chapel contains the cloak of
       designed by Guiniforte Solari  by Gaudenzio Ferrari. In the   St Catherine of Siena.



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