Page 178 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Southwest USA & National Parks
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176      THE  FOUR  C ORNERS                                                                             THE  FOUR  C ORNERS      177


                                                                              AD 400. They closely followed   geology of this area and   T Salmon Ruins
                                                                              the Mesa Verde (see pp184–5)   features a popular children’s   6131 Hwy 64. Tel (505) 632-2013. Open
                                                                              development pattern, even-  gallery with inter active exhibits.  May–Oct: 8am–5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–
                                                                              tually creating numerous fine           5pm Sat & Sun; Nov–Apr: 8am–5pm
                                                                              cliff dwellings, including the   Environs  Mon–Fri, 9am–5pm Sat, noon–5pm
                                                                              80-room Lion House. These   About 25 miles (40 km) west of   Sun. & 7 8 ∑ salmonruins.com
                                                                              ruins have few visitors because   Farmington is Shiprock, named
                                                                              of their inaccessibility. Visitors   for the spectacular 1,500-ft (457-
                                                                              can use their own vehicles    m) rock peak that thrusts up from
                                                                              and join the dusty tours led    the valley floor about 5 miles (8
                                                                              by local Ute guides, or pay    km) west of town. To the Navajo,
                                                                              an extra charge to be driven.  this rock is sacred; to early Anglo-
                                                                                                  American settlers it was a
                                                                              w Four Corners      landmark visible for many miles
                                                                                                  that reminded them of a ship’s
       Dramatic mesas and buttes in the Valley of the Gods near Bluff         Monument Navajo     prow, hence the name. Now it is
                                                                              Tribal Park         only possible for visitors to
       8 Bluff             E Edge of the Cedars Museum  was named later in 1874, after            observe the peak from the
                           660 W. 400 N. Tel (435) 678-2238.   an Ute word meaning “Deserted   Road map D2. Junction of Hwys 160   roadsides of Hwys 64 or 33.
       Road map D2. * 300.    Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat; noon–                    and 41. Tel (928) 871-6647. Open Jun–
       ∑ bluffutah.org                         Valley.” The culture here reached                    Eight miles (12 km) south
                           4pm Sun (Apr–Oct). Closed Jan 1,   its peak between 1200 and 1275.   Sep: 7am–8pm; Oct–May: 8am–5pm.   are the Salmon Ruins, which
       The charming town of Bluff was   Thanksgiving, Dec 25. &   Little is known of these people   Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25.   were once an outlying Chaco   Interior of the Great Kiva at the Ancestral
                                                                              & 7 ∑ utah.com/four-corners
       settled in 1880 by the Mormons   ∑ stateparks.utah.gov  beyond the clues found in the      settlement. These ruins were   Puebloan Salmon Ruins
       of “Hole-in-the-Rock-Road” fame         pottery and tools that they    There is something oddly   protected from gravediggers by
       (see p151). It is a good base for   0 Hovenweep   left behind. Researchers have   compelling about being able to   the Salmon family, who home-
       exploring Utah’s southeast corner.      speculated that the Hovenweep   put one foot and hand in each   steaded here in the 1870s.    t Aztec
       Float trips along the gentle    National   towers might have been defensive   of four states. The Four Corners   As a result, a century later   Road map D2. * 6,500. n 110
       San Juan River include stops    Monument  fortifications, astronomical   Monument is the only place in   archaeologists recovered more   North Ash St. (505) 334-9551.
       at Ancestral Pueblo ruins that   Road map D2. East of Hwy 191.    observatories, storage silos,    the US where four states meet   than a million artifacts, many of   ∑ aztecnm.com
       can be reached only by boat.            or religious structures.       at one point.       which are on display in the
                           Tel (970) 562-4282. Open 8am–5pm
                           daily (6pm May–Sep). Closed Jan 1,      Self-guided hiking trails      excellent on-site museum.   The small town of Aztec was
       Environs            Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 8    explore each of Hovenweep’s              Outside, trails lead to the Salmon   named for its ruins, which are
       About 12 miles (20 km) south of   ∑ nps.gov/hove  six separate sets of ruins, which   e Chaco Culture   homestead and the ruins, which   Ancestral Puebloan – and not
       town, a marked turn leads onto          lie a few miles apart.         National Historical   show the exceptional level of skill   Aztec, as early settlers believed.
       the 17-mile (27-km) dirt road   One of the most mysterious             Park                of these ancient stonemasons.  Preserved as a national
       through the Valley of the    Ancestral Puebloan sites in    q Ute Mountain                                     monument, the site’s 500-room
       Gods. Like a smaller version of   the Southwest, the ruins at          See pp178–9.        E Bolack Museum of Fish    pueblo flourished in the late
       Monument Valley (see pp168–9),   Hovenweep lie along the rims   Tribal Park                and Wildlife        1200s. Visitors can look inside
       this place features high rock   of shallow canyons on a remote   Road map D2. n Junction of   3901 Bloomfield Hwy. Tel (505) 325-  a rebuilt kiva.
       spires, buttes, and mesas, but   high plateau in the southwest   Highway 160 and Highway 491.    r Farmington   4275. Open 9am–3pm Mon–Sat, tours
       none of the crowds. On a quiet   corner of Colorado. These well-  (970) 565-9653. 8 9am daily   Road map D2. * 46,000. ~ @    by appointment only. Closed Sun,   T Aztec Ruins National
       day visitors may have the place   preserved ruins, which include   (obligatory; reserve ahead). &   n 3041 E. Main St. (505) 326-7602.   hols. & 7 8 obligatory.   Monument
                                                                                                  ∑ bolackmuseums.com
       to themselves and be able to   unique round, square, and   ∑ utemountaintribalpark.info  ∑ farmingtonnm.org    North of Hwy 516 on Ruins Rd.
       imagine what it looked like    D-shaped towers, have neither                               E Farmington Museum  Tel (505) 334-6174. Open 8am–5pm
       to the first settlers.  been restored nor rebuilt. Indeed,   The Ute Mountain Tribal Park   A dusty, hard-working ranch   3041 E. Main St. Tel (505) 599-1174.   daily (6pm in summer). Closed Jan 1,
                           they look much as they did   ruins are one of the South-  town, Farmington is a good base   Open 8am–5pm Mon–Sat. & 7 8   Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 8
                                                                                                                      ∑ nps.gov/azru
       9 Blanding          when W. D. Huntington, leader of  west’s better kept secrets. The   for exploring the surround ing   ∑ farmingtonmuseum.org
                           a Mormon expedition, first came
                                                                              monuments. It is also home
                                               Ancestral Puebloan people first
       Road map D2. * 3,800. n 12 N.   upon the site in 1854. The site   arrived in this region in about   to one of the most unusual
       Grayson Parkway.  (435) 678-3662.                                     museums in the Southwest.
       Open 8am–6pm Mon–Sat.                                                  Just south of town, on the
       ∑ blandingutah.org                                                     family-run B-Square Ranch,
                                                                              the vast Bolack Museum of Fish
       A tidy Mormon town at the base                                         and Wildlife houses the largest
       of the Abajo Mountains, Blanding                                       accumulation of mounted
       is home to the Edge of the                                             game animals in the world –
       Cedars State Park. The park                                            more than 2,500 specimens
       contains modest Ancest ral                                             collected over 70 years by
       Puebloan ruins, including a small                                      oilman and rancher Tom Bolack.
       kiva, or religious chamber. The                                        It is divided into nine themed
       museum has well-thought-out                                            game rooms, including African,
       displays on the history of these                                       Asian, European, and Russian.
       ancient people and other cultures                                      The Farmington Museum
       that have inhabited the region.  Ancient brick tower at Hovenweep National Monument  focuses on the local history and   The spectacular red peak of Shiprock near Farmington
       For hotels and restaurants see p241 and pp256–7
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