Page 65 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Belgium & Luxembourg
P. 65

BRUSSELS      63

                                               5 La Bourse
        Luxurious Lace
                                               Palais de la Bourse, 1000 BRU.
        Lace (dentelle in French, kant in Dutch) has always been a luxury   City Map 1 C2. Tel (02) 5091373.
        product, as it is a hugely labour-intensive accessory. Belgian lace    @ 46, 48, 86, 95. q Bourse. v 3, 4,
        has had a high reputation since the bobbin lace technique was   31, 32. Closed No longer open to the
        introduced from Italy in the 17th century. Patterns are created by   public. Bruxella 1238: (02) 2794355.
        manipulating dozens of threads, each attached to a wooden   Open 1st Wed of month; can be
        bobbin, around pins embedded in a cushion. Lace has been used   visited by appoint ment at other times.
        for clothes, shawls and church vestments, as well as table and bed   & 8 obligatory, 10:15am (English),
        linen. Historically, it was made by women of all social classes – by   11:15am (French), 2pm (Dutch).
        the nobility as a pastime, by
        nuns and béguines in                   Brussels’s Stock Exchange,
        convents, and by ill-paid              La Bourse, is one of the city’s
        cottage workers exploited
        by unscrupulous middle-                most impressive buildings,
                                               and it dominates the square
        men. During the 19th-
        century love-affair with               of the same name. Designed
        lace, there were perhaps               in Palladian style by architect
        50,000 lace-makers in                  Léon Suys, the building was
        Belgium. Despite                       constructed between 1867 and
        competition from machine-              1873. Among its most notable
        made lace, handmade                    features are the ornate carv-
        Belgian lace is still                  ings on each façade. The great
        produced and carries a                 French sculptor, Auguste Rodin
        certificate of provenance.  A display of delicately patterned lace  (1840 – 1917), is rumoured to
                                               have crafted four caryatids
                                               inside, as well as the statues
       donated by a visiting dignitary   bell tower finally collapsed.   repre senting Africa and Asia in
       since the tradition began some   Several res toration pro jects   allegorical groups on the roof.
       three centuries ago.  were plan ned but none came   Beneath the col onnade are
                           to fruition until 1956, when    two beautifully detailed
                           the west side of the build ing   winged figures representing
       4 Église St-Nicolas   was given a new Gothic-   good and evil which were
                           style façade.         carved by Flemish sculptor
       Rue au Beurre 1, 1000 BRU.
       City Map 2 D2. Tel (02) 5138022.      Dedicated to St Nicolas,   Jacques de Haen (1831–
       @ 29, 38, 46, 47, 63, 65, 66, 71, 86, 88,   the patron saint of    1900). Once the scene
       95. q Bourse, De Brouckère. v 3, 4,   mer chants, this low-lit   of frantic trading, La
       31, 32. Open 8am–6:30pm Mon–Fri,   atmos pheric church    Bourse today houses
       9am–6pm Sat, 9am–7:30pm Sun &   is known for its choir   the offices of Euronext,
       public holidays. Closed during services.  stalls, dating   the owners of
                           from 1381,                   the Belgian
       A market church was built on   which depict      Stock Exchange,
       this site at the end of the 12th   the story of    Allegorical statues crowning the roof line   and all financial
       century, but, like much of the   St Nicolas on   of La Bourse  activity is now
       Lower Town, it was damaged in   medal lions.     via computers.
       the 1695 French bombard ment.   The unusual angle of the chapel     On its northern side are some
       A cannon ball lodged itself into   is reportedly to avoid the flow   archaeo logical remains from
       an interior pillar and in 1714, the   of an old stream.  medieval Brussels, exhibited
                                               at Bruxella 1238. Discovered
                                               unexpect edly during roadworks
                                               in 1998, these include the remains
                                               of a 13th-century Franciscan
                                               convent, a church and the grave
                                               of Duke John I of Brabant who
                                               was buried here in 1294.
                                                 A small museum has been
                                               built on the site, where interested
                                               visitors can see the relics of social
                                               and religious life in 13th-century
                                               Brussels on display. To protect
                                               the remains from degradation,
                                               the area is accessible only by
                                               guided tours, starting from the
                                               Musée de la Ville de Bruxelles
       Simple Gothic shapes on the restored side of the Église St-Nicolas  in the Maison du Roi.




   062-063_EW_Belgium.indd   63                              18/10/16   3:01 pm
   60   61   62   63   64   65   66   67   68   69   70