Page 151 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Krakow
P. 151

PIASEK  AND  NOWY  ŚWIA T   149


       the tomb of the Confederates   rBłonia Fields   of the great artist and
       of Bar who fell in a rebellion   Map 1 A5. @ 114, 134, 152, 164, 173,   playwright of the so-called
       against the Russians in 1768.  179, 192, 292. v 15, 18, 20.  Young Poland movement
        Between 1712 and 1719 an               (Polish Modernism). The
       external Loreto Chapel was built   The Błonia Fields formed part   sculptor, Marian Konieczny,
       to a design by Kacper Bażanka;   of the grounds owned by the   depicted Stanisław Wyspiański
       this is linked to the church   Convent of Premonstraten-  surrounded by the characters
       through a cloister. It houses a   sian (Norbertine) Nuns in   from two of his plays, The
       Neo-Classical altar with a mirac-  Zwierzyniec and were originally   Wedding and November Night.
       ulous statue of the Madonna of   used as pastures. In 1366 the   The monument was badly
       Loreto and a beautiful tabernacle,   nuns made a rather bad deal   received and prompted
       also designed by Bażanka. An   with the city’s authorities and   unfavourable interpretations.
       animated Christmas crib is   exchanged Błonia for a house
       erected here every year, feat-  in Floriańska Street. The house
       uring historic Polish characters.  proved to be unprofitable and   yNational Museum
                           was eventually destroyed by   in Krakow, Main
                           fire. This gave rise to a joke   Building
                           about the nuns who had
                           exchanged pastures for a   See pp150–51.
                           bonfire. For centuries the nuns
                           tried in vain to regain the land
                           but the Błonia Fields remain the   uSchool of
                           property of the City of Krakow.  Chemistry
                            Błonia were used in the past   Zespół Szkół Chemicznych
                           as a venue for mass religious
                           and national celebrations: the   ul. Krupnicza 44. Map 1 A4 (5 A2).
                           first football match in Krakow   Tel 12 422 32 20. @ 114, 164, 169,
                           took place here in 1894 and   173, 179. Closed to the public.
                           Pope John Paul II said a Holy
                           Mass here on four occasions.   In 1834 the Institute
                           Today it is a wildlife sanctuary   of Technology was
                           in the centre of Krakow and a   established in
                           popular place for recreation.  Krakow, funded by
                                                     the bequest of the
                           tWyspiański               architect Szczepan
       P P Portrait of Mrs Mehoffer by the Modernist ortrait of Mrs Mehoffer by the Modernist ortrait of Mrs Mehoffer  Humbert. It was later
       artist Józef Mehoffer  Monument               transformed into
                           Pomnik S.                 the State School
       eJózef Mehoffer     Wyspiańskiego             of Industry. This
       House Museum        al. 3 Maja (in front of the National   irregular brick
                                                     structure, decorated
       Muzeum Józefa Mehoffera  Museum). Map 1 A5 (5 A3). @  with Art Nouveau
                           144, 164, 173, 179, 503. v 20.  ornaments, now
       ul. Krupnicza 26. Map 1 B4 (5 B2).
       Tel 12 433 58 80. v 4, 8, 13, 14, 24.           houses the School
       Open 10am–4pm Tue, Wed, Fri–Sun,   The monument was   of Chemistry.
       10am–6pm Thu. & free Sun. -  unveiled in 1982 to
                           mark the 75th anni-
       Stanisław Wyspiański was   versary of the death
       born in this house in 1869.
       In 1930 it was bought by Józef
       Mehoffer (1869–1946), one of
       the foremost Modernist artists
       in Poland. In 1968 the house
       was acquired by the National
       Museum and the Józef
       Mehoffer House Museum was
       established. The interiors have
       been preserved in the tasteful
       way they were arranged by the
       artist himself. Many of his works,
       including paintings, stained
       glass and murals, are on display.
       Behind the house is the
       delightful Meho Café (see p196).   Wyspiański Monument
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