Page 160 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Krakow
P. 160

158   PODG Ó RZE

       6 Podgórze

       Immediately south of Kazimierz, on the opposite shore of
       the Vistula river, the gritty post-industrial suburb of Podgórze
       is a compelling destination for visitors. It was the site of a
       Jewish ghetto during World War II, and Jews from all over
       Krakow were crowded into its cramped streets before
       being transported to Auschwitz-Birkenau and elsewhere.
       Several sites in Podgórze and neighbouring Plaszów recall
       this period in Kraków’s history, most notably the celebrated
       Schindler Factory (now a major museum), where Oskar   Part of an exhibition of life in Krakow
       Schindler saved over 1,000 Jews from inevitable death.
                                               during World War II, at the Schindler Factory
                                               E Schindler Factory
                                               Fabryka Schindlera
                                               ul. Lipowa 4. Map 4 F2. Tel 12 257 00
                                               95. v 3, 19, 24. Open Apr–Oct:
                                               10am–4pm Mon, 9am–8pm Tues–
                                               Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am–2pm Mon,
                                               10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & (free Mon)
                                               8 - ∑ mhk.pl
                                               The Schindler Factory, located in
                                               the former industrial district of
                                               Zabłocie, will forever be asso­
                                               ciated with Oskar Schindler
                                               (see p127). A German wartime
                                               industrialist, he protected local
                                               Jews by employing them in his
                                               factory, arguing that they were
       Oversized chair sculptures on plac Bohaterów Getta  essential to his business. His
                                               story was popularized by
       P Plac Bohaterów Getta  three assistants opted to stay   Thomas Keneally’s Booker Prize­
       Map 4 E2. v 3, 19, 24.  behind; the pharmacy became   winning novel Schindler’s Ark
       This former market square was   a social hub and source of aid   and Steven Spielberg’s 1993 film
       where Krakow’s Jews unloaded   for the Jewish community.   Schindler’s List.
       their belongings and waited to   Now a small but fascinating   Part of the Historical Museum
       be allocated accommodation in   museum, the pharmacy has   of Krakow, the factory hosts an
       the Podgórze ghetto, which was   been recreated to look as it did   exhibition entitled “Krakow
       established in March 1941. Two   during the war. Multimedia   Under Nazi Occupation 1939–45”.
       years later, they assembled here   displays, as well as photographs   Everyday life for Krakow’s Jewish
       again, prior to their deportation   and personal effects hidden in   and Polish inhabitants – from
       to the camps. This history of   drawers and cupboards, tell the   the last pre­war summer of 1939
       traumatic arrivals and depart­  devastating stories of those   through the Nazi occupation
       ures is marked in Piotr Lewicki   forced to live in the ghetto.   until the arrival of the Red Army
       and Kazimierz Łatak’s installation      in January 1945 – is illustrated
       of oversized iron chairs scattered      using original documents, radio
       across the square. The chairs           and film recordings, photographs
       serve as a reminder that when           and multimedia installations.
       the ghetto was cleared in March         The fate of the Jewish popu­
       1943, bits of abandoned furni­          lation – incarcerated in the
       ture were all that was left of          ghetto, exploited as slave
       Krakow’s Jewish community.              labour, then transported to
                                               the death camps – is a major
       E Pharmacy Under the Eagle              theme, though lives of other
       Apteka pod Orłem                        citizens are also covered in
       Plac Bohaterów Getta 18. Map 4 E3.      detail, notably the arrest and
       Tel 12 656 56 25. v 3, 19, 24.          murder of prominent members
       Open 10am–2pm Mon, 9am–5pm              of the city’s intellectual and
       Tues–Sun. & (free Mon) 8 ∑ mhk.pl       political elite. Poignant exhibits
       As the ghetto rose up around            include Schindler’s desk and a
       their pharmacy, gentiles Dr   The façade of the Pharmacy Under the   wall of photographs of those
       Tadeusz Pankiewicz and his   Eagle, on plac Bohaterów Getta  that Schindler saved.
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