Page 105 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome
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P ALA TINE      103


       the same small bedroom for              9 Farnese Gardens
       40 years on a low bed that had          See Visitors’ Checklist.
       “a very ordinary coverlet.”
         A flight of steps leads down          In the mid-1500s, Cardinal
       to a mosaic-paved corridor              Alessandro Farnese, grandson of
       into a courtyard. Its imitation-        Pope Paul III, bought the ruins of
       marble wall frescoes have               Tiberius’s palace on the Palatine.
       been detached in order to               He filled in the ruined building
       preserve them, but they still           and had the architect Vignola
       hang in place. They are faded,          design a garden. The result was
       but you can make out the   Vaulted ceiling painting in the House    one of the first botanical gardens
       veining patterns nonetheless.   of Augustus  in Europe, its terraces linked by
       Off the courtyard are three             steps stretching from the House
       small reception rooms.    of the Temple of Cybele, a   of Vestal Virgins in the Forum to
       The frescoes in the central    popular fertility goddess   the Palatine’s Germalus peak. The
       one include a faded scene   imported to Rome from   gardeners introduced a number
       of Hermes coming to     Asia. The priests of the   of plants to Italy and Europe,
       the rescue of Zeus’s     cult castrated   among them Acacia farnesiana.
       beloved Io, who is       themselves in the   Farnese was at the center of a
       guarded by the 100-      belief that if they   glittering set that included a
       eyed Argos. In the left-  sacrificed their own   number of courtesans, so the
       hand room are frescoed   fertility, they would   parties here are likely to have
       figures of griffins, and   guarantee that of the   been somewhat unholy.
       other beasts, while    natural world. The      The area was dug up during
       the decor in the right-  annual festival of    the excavation of the Palatine
       hand room includes      Cybele, in early spring,   and re-landscaped. The tree-
       both landscapes    Statue of the   culminated with frenzied   lined avenues, rose gardens, and
       and cityscapes.  goddess Cybele  eunuch-priests slashing   glorious views make it an ideal
                               their bodies to offer up   place to unwind.
       6 House of          their blood to the goddess, and
                           the ceremonial castration of
       Augustus            novice priests.       VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
       See Visitors’ Checklist.                  Practical Information
                                                 Entrances & ticket kiosks: Via di
       Painted in about 30 BC, the   8 Huts of Romulus   San Gregorio 30. Map 8 E1–8 F1.
       frescoes in the House of   See Visitors’ Checklist.  Tel 06-3996 7700. Open
       Augustus are among the most               8:30am–approx 1 hour before
       impressive existing examples    According to legend, after   sunset daily; (last adm: 1 hour
       of Roman wall paintings, similar   killing his brother Remus,   before closing). Closed Jan 1,
       in quality to those found in   Romulus founded a village on   Dec 25. & (includes entry to
                                                 the Palatine Museum, the
       Pompeii and Herculaneum.    the Palatine. In the 1940s a   Forum & the Colosseum).
       In vivid shades of red, blue,    series of holes was found, and   8 9 =
       and ocher, they include various   archaeologists deduced that
       trompe l’oeil effects, including    these must originally have    Transportation
       a room with walls painted to   held the supporting poles    @ 75, 85, 87, 117, 186, 810, 850
       resemble a stage with side   of three Iron-Age huts – the    to Via dei Fori Imperiali. v 3.
       doors, and a garden vista.   first foundations of Rome    q Colosseo.
         Although the frescoes are   (see pp20–21).
       impressive, the house itself is
       modest. This is where Augustus
       (or Octavian, as he was then
       known) lived before assuming
       supreme power as Rome’s first
       emperor. Only a few visitors are
       allowed in at any one time.

       7 Temple of
       Cybele
       See Visitors’ Checklist.
       Other than a platform with
       a few column stumps and
       capitals, there is little to see    Farnese pavilions, relics of the age when the Palatine was a private garden




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