Page 124 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome
P. 124

122      ROME  AREA  B Y  AREA

       1 Fontana dei                           in the 17th century with the
       Quattro Fiumi                           addition of the Fontana dei
                                               Quattro Fiumi. The other
       Piazza Navona. Map 4 E4 & 11 C3.        fountains date from the
       @ 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492, 628.  pre vious century but have
                                               been altered several times
       Built for Pope Innocent X               since. The basin of the Fontana
       Pamphilj, this magnificent              di Nettuno, at the northern
       fountain in the center of Piazza        end, was built by Giacomo
       Navona was unveiled in 1651.            della Porta in 1576, while the
       The pope’s coat of arms, the            statues of Neptune and the
       dove and the olive branch,              Nereids date from the 19th
       decorate the pyramid rock               century. The Fontana del
       formation supporting the                Moro, at the southern end,
       Roman obelisk, which once               was also designed by della
       stood in the Circus of Maxentius        Porta, though Bernini altered
       on the Appian Way. Bernini              it later, adding a statue of a
       designed the fountain, which   Palazzo Pamphilj, the largest building in   Moor fighting a dolphin.
       was paid for by means of taxes   Piazza Navona    Up until the 19th century,
       on bread and other staples. The         Piazza Navona was flooded
       great rivers – the Ganges, the   2 Piazza Navona   during August by plugging
       Danube, the Nile, and the    Map 4 E3 & 11 C2. @ 46, 62, 64, 70,   the fountain outlets. The
       Plate – are represented by    81, 87, 116, 492, 628.  rich would splash around in
       four giants. The Nile’s veiled          carriages, while street urchins
       head symbolizes the river’s   The most beautiful Baroque   paddled after them. Today, with
       unknown source, but there is   piazza in the city follows the   its numerous stores and cafés,
       also a legend that the veil   shape of Domitian’s Stadium,   the piazza is a favorite in all
       conveys Bernini’s dislike for the   which once stood on this site –   seasons. In summer it is busy
       nearby Sant’Agnese in Agone,   some of its arches are still    with street entertainers, while
       designed by his rival Borromini.   visible below the church of   in winter it fills with colorful
       Similarly, the athletic figure of   Sant’Agnese in Agone. The   stands selling toys and candy
       the Plate, cringing with arm   agones were athletic contests   for the feast of the Befana.
       upraised, is supposed to    held in the 1st-century
       express Bernini’s fear that the   stadium, which could seat
       church will collapse. Sadly,    as many as 33,000 people.
       these widely believed stories   The word “Navona” is
       can have no basis in fact:    thought to be a corruption
       Bernini had completed the   of in agone. The piazza’s
       fountain before Borromini   unique appearance and
       started work on the church.  atmosphere were created
                                               Coat of arms with dove and olive branch
                                               on the facade of Palazzo Pamphilj
                                               3 Palazzo Pamphilj
                                               Piazza Navona. Map 4 E4 & 11 C3.
                                               @ 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492, 628.
                                               Closed to the public.
                                               In 1644 Giovanni Battista
                                               Pamphilj became Pope
                                               Innocent X. During his 10-year
                                               reign, he heaped riches on his
                                               own family, especially his
                                               domineering sister-in-law,
                                               Olimpia Maidalchini. The “talking
                                               statue” Pasquino (see p126) gave
                                               her the nickname “Olim-Pia,”
                                               Latin for “formerly virtuous.”
                                               She lived in the grand Palazzo
                                               Pamphilj, which has frescoes
                                               by Pietro da Cortona and a
                                               gallery by Borromini. The
                                               building is now the Brazilian
       Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi in Piazza Navona  embassy and cultural center.




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