Page 119 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome
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PIAZZA  DELLA  RO T OND A      117

                           d Column of         spiral staircase leads to the top.
                           Marcus Aurelius     The easiest way to appreciate
                                               the sculptural work, however, is
                           Piazza Colonna. Map 5 A3 & 12 E2.
                           @ 116 and routes along Via del Corso   to visit the Museo della Civiltà
                           or to Piazza S. Silvestro.  Romana at EUR (see p268) and
                                               study the casts of the reliefs.
                           Clearly an imitation of the
                           column of Trajan (see p92), this
                           monument was erected after
                           the death of Marcus Aurelius in
                           AD 180 to commemorate his
                           victories over the barbarian
                           tribes of the Danube. The
                           80-year lapse between the two
                           works produced a great artistic
                           change: the wars of Marcus
                           Aurelius are rendered with
                           simplified pictures in stronger
                           relief, sacrificing Classical
                           proportions for the sake of
                           clarity and immediacy. The    Windows of Palazzo Capranica
       Emperor Augustus’s obelisk  spirit of the work is more akin
                           to the 4th-century Arch of   f Palazzo
       s Obelisk of        Constantine (see p93) than to   Capranica
       Montecitorio        Trajan’s monument. Gone are
                           the heroic qualities of the   Piazza Capranica 101. Map 4 F3 &
       Piazza di Monte Citorio 33. Map 4 F3 &   Roman soldiers, by now mostly   12 D2. @ 116 and routes along
       12 E2. @ 116 and routes along Via del   barbarian mercenaries, and a   Via del Corso or to Piazza S. Silvestro.
       Corso or to Piazza S. Silvestro.  sense of respect for the   Closed to the public.
                           vanquished. A new emphasis    One of Rome’s small number of
       The measurement of time in   on the supernatural points to   surviving 15th-century buildings,
       ancient Rome was always a   the end of the Hellenistic   the palazzo was commissioned
       rather hit-or-miss affair: for   tradition and the beginning    by Cardinal Domenico Capranica
       many years the Romans relied   of Christianity.  both as his family residence and
       on an imported (and therefore     Composed of 28 drums    as a college for higher education.
       inaccurate) sundial, a trophy   of marble, the column was   Its fortress-like appearance is a
       from the conquest of Sicily. In   restored in 1588 by Domenico   patchwork of subsequent addi-
       10 BC the Emperor Augustus   Fontana on the orders of Pope   tions, not unusual in the late 15th
       laid out an enormous sundial in   Sixtus V. The emperor’s statue   century, when Rome was still
       the Campus Martius. Its center   on the summit was replaced    hovering between medieval and
       was roughly in today’s Piazza   by a bronze of St. Paul. The 20   Renaissance taste. The Gothic-
       di San Lorenzo in Lucina. The   spirals of the low relief chronicle   looking windows on the right of
       shadow was cast by a huge   the German war of AD 172–3,   the building show the cardinal’s
       granite obelisk that Augustus   and (above) the Sarmatic War of   coat of arms and the date 1451
       brought back from Heliopolis    AD 174–5. The column is almost   is inscribed on the doorway
       in Egypt. Unfortun ately, this   100 ft (30 m) high and 12 ft   underneath. The palazzo now
       sundial too became inaccurate   (3.7 m) in diameter. An internal   houses a conference center.
       after only 50 years, possibly due
       to settling of the ground.
         The obelisk was still in the
       piazza in the 9th century, but
       then disappeared until it was
       rediscovered lying under medi-
       eval houses in the reign of Pope
       Julius II (1503–13). The pope
       was intrigued, because Egyptian
       hieroglyphs were thought to
       hold the key to the wisdom of
       Adam before the Fall, but it was
       only under Pope Benedict XIV
       (reigned 1740–58) that the
       obelisk was finally unearthed.
       It was erected in its present
       location in 1792 by Pope Pius VI.  Relief of the emperor’s campaigns on the Column of Marcus Aurelius




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