Page 164 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome

162  ROME AREA B Y AREA

Canova donated a model for of one of the cardinal’s famous
his famous marble group, nieces, either Louis XIV’s first love,
The Three Graces. Maria Mancini (1639–1715), or
Of particular interest are three her younger sister, Ortensia. In
fascinating self-portraits painted the apse, memorial plaques
by women: the 17th-century record the popes whose
Italian Lavinia Fontana; the praecordia (a part of the heart)
18th-century Swiss Angelica are enshrined behind the wall.
Kauffmann, whose painting is This gruesome tradition was
copied from a portrait of her started at the end of the 16th
by Joshua Reynolds; and century by Pope Sixtus V and
Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun, the continued until Pius X stopped
French painter of the years it in the early 20th century.
before the 1789 Revolution.
0 Scuderie del
Facade of Santa Maria in Trivio 9 Santi Vincenzo Quirinale
7 Santa Maria e Anastasio
in Trivio Via 24 Maggio 16. Map 5 B4. Tel 06-
Vicolo dei Modelli 73. Map 5 A3 & 3996 7500. @ H, 40, 60, 64, 70, 170.
Piazza dei Crociferi 49. Map 5 A3 & 12 F2. @ 52, 53, 61, 62, 63, 71, 80, Open for exhibitions 10am–8pm
12 F2. Tel 06-678 9645. @ 52, 53, 61, 116, 119. Open 9am–8pm daily. Mon–Thu, 10am–10:30pm Fri & Sat,
62, 63, 71, 80, 116, 119. Open 8am– 5 (Bulgarian Orthodox services). 10am–9pm Sun. & 7 - =
noon, 4–8pm daily. 5 ∑ scuderiequirinale.it
Overlooking the Trevi Fountain
It has been said that Italian is one of the most over-the-top The Scuderie started life as
architecture is one of facades, Baroque facades in Rome. Its stables for the nearby Palazzo
and nowhere is this clearer than thickets of columns are del Quirinale. Built in the early
in the 1570s facade of Santa crowned by the huge coat of 1700s by Ferdinando Fuga over
Maria in Trivio, delightfully arms of Cardinal Raimondo the remains of the ancient
stuck on to the building behind Mazzarino, better known as Temple of Serapis, the stables
it. Note the false windows. Cardinal Mazarin, chief minister were remodeled by Gae Aulenti
There is illusion inside too, of France, who commissioned at the end of the 20th century
particularly in the ceiling Martino Longhi the Younger to and now house some of the
frescoes, which show scenes build the church in 1650. The best temporary art exhibitions
from the New Testament by female bust above the door is in the country.
Antonio Gherardi (1644–1702).
The name of the tiny
church probably means
“St Mary-at- the-meeting-
of-three-roads.”

8 Accademia
Nazionale di
San Luca
Piazza dell’Accademia di San Luca 77.
Map 5 A3 & 12 F2. Tel 06-679 8850.
@ 52, 53, 61, 62, 63, 71, 80, 116, 119
and many routes along Via del Corso
and Via del Tritone. Open 10am–
12:30pm Mon–Sat.
∑ accademiasanluca.it
St. Luke is supposed to have
been a painter, hence the name
of Rome’s academy of fine arts.
Appropriately, the gallery
contains a painting of St. Luke
Painting a Portrait of the Virgin
by Raphael and his followers.
The academy’s heyday was in
the 17th and 18th centuries,
when many members gave
their work to the collection. Self-portrait by Lavinia Fontana in the Accademia Nazionale di San Luca

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