Page 186 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome

184  ROME AREA B Y AREA

Sanctorum (Holy of Holies), travertine facade and two rows
built by Pope Nicholas III in of small windows, giving light to
1278. Decorated with fine two corridors built into the wall
Cosmatesque marble-work, above the gateway. In AD 546
the chapel contains many treacherous barbarian soldiers
important relics, the most serving in the Roman army
precious being an image of opened this gate to the
Jesus – the Acheiropoeton or hordes of the Goth Totila, who
“picture painted without hands,” mercilessly looted the city. In
said to be the work of St. Luke, 1084 the Holy Roman Emperor
with the help of an angel. It was Henry IV entered Rome via
taken on procession in medi eval Porta Asinaria with the antipope
times to ward off plagues. Guibert to oust Pope Gregory
On the walls and in the vault, VII. The gate was badly
restoration work has revealed damaged in the conflicts
13th-century frescoes that for that followed.
500 years had been covered The area close to the gate,
Devout Christians climbing the Scala Santa by later paintings. The frescoes, especially in the Via Sannio, is
on their knees representing the legends of the home of a popular flea
St. Nicholas, St. Lawrence, market (see p345).
2 Scala Santa and St. Agnes, and St. Paul, show
Sancta Sanctorum signs of the style that would
characterize the frescoes of
Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano 14. Giotto in Assisi, made a few
Map 9 C1. Tel 06-772 6641. @ 16, 81, years later.
85, 87, 186 and other routes to Piazza
di San Giovanni in Laterano. v 3.
q San Giovanni. Open 6:30am– 3 Porta Asinaria
6:30pm Mon–Sat, 7am–7pm Sun
& hols. 5 Between Piazza di Porta San Giovanni
and Piazzale Appio. Map 10 D2.
@ 16, 81, 85, 87. v 3. q San
On the east side of Piazza di San Giovanni. See Markets p345.
Giovanni in Laterano, a building
designed by Domenico Fontana The Porta Asinaria (Gate of the
(1589) houses two surviving Donkeys) is one of the minor
parts of the old Lateran Palace. gateways in the Aurelian Wall
One is the Sancta Sanctorum, (see p198). Twin circular towers
the other the holy staircase, the were added and a small Bargain clothes at the Via Sannio flea
Scala Santa. The 28 steps, said to enclosure built around the market near Porta Asinaria
be those that Christ ascended entrance; the remains are still
in Pontius Pilate’s house during visible. From outside the walls 4 Amphiteatrum
his trial, are supposed to have you can see the gate’s white
been brought from Jerusalem Castrense
by St. Helena, mother of the Between Piazza di Santa Croce in
Emperor Constantine. This belief, Gerusalemme and Viale Castrense.
however, cannot be traced back Map 10 E1. @ 649. v 3. Open first
any earlier than the 7th century. and third Sat of month by appt (call
The steps were moved to their 06-3996 7700).
present site by Pope Sixtus V
(reigned 1585–90) when the old This small 3rd-century amphi-
Lateran Palace was destroyed. theater was used for games
No foot may touch the holy and baiting animals. It owes
steps, so they are covered by its preservation to the fact
wooden boards. They may only that it was incorporated in the
be climbed by the faithful on Aurelian Wall (see p198), which
their knees, a penance that is included several existing high
performed especially on Good buildings in its fortifications. The
Friday. In the vestibule there are graceful arches framed by brick
various 19th-century sculptures semi-columns were blocked up.
including an Ecce Homo by The amphitheater is best seen
Giosuè Meli (1874). from outside the walls, from
The Scala Santa and two side where there is also a good view
stairways lead to the Chapel of the bell tower of Santa Croce
of St. Lawrence or Sancta Porta Asinaria from inside the wall in Gerusalemme.

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