Page 278 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome

276  ROME AREA B Y AREA

A Two-Hour Walk by the Tiber River

Rome owes its very existence to the Tiber; the city grew up (see p154) in the Jewish
around an easy fording point where a marketplace developed. Ghetto (see p154). The Roman
The river could also be a hazard; shallow and torrential, it portico, once Rome’s fish market,
flooded the city every winter up to 1870, when work began houses the church of Sant’Angelo
in Pescheria. Find the marble
on the massive Lungotevere embankments that run along plaque on the facade: fish longer
both sides of the river. These provide many than this slab were given to the
fine views from points along their avenues city’s conservatori (governors).
of plane trees. The walk also explores the Turn into the Ghetto: two
neighborhoods along the riverside, in column stumps belonging to
the Portico stand in front of a
particular the Jewish Ghetto and Trastevere, patched-up doorway made of
which have preserved much of their fragments of Roman sculpture.
character from earlier periods in the The cramped buildings and
colorful history of Rome. streets around Via del Portico

From the old port of Rome
to Via dei Funari VIA D. DELFINI 0 PIAZZA
MARGANA
Starting from the church of Santa VIC. D. POLVERONE VIA DEI GIUBBONARI VIA DEI FUNARI q PIAZZA
Maria in Cosmedin 1 (see p204), CAMPIDOGLIO
DEL
cross the piazza to the Temples VIA DEI PETTINARI V. D. SPECCHI e P.ZA CAMPITELLI M A R C E L L O
of the Forum Boarium 2 (see 1 Santa Maria in Cosmedin 9
p205). This was the cattle market V. DEL CONSERVATORIO VIA ARENULA r VIA D. PROGRESSO w
that stood near the city’s river 8 (see p153); go and look Ponte Sisto LUNGOTEVE R E D E I V A LL ATI D I
port. The river here has preserved at the three Corinthian V. D. ZOC COLETTE VIA PORTICO D'OTTAVIA
t
PIAZZA
two less obvious structures from columns of the Temple TRILUSSA f LUNGOT. DEI CENCI 8 EATRO
ancient Rome: the mouth of the of Apollo beside it. Turn d T e v e r e y VIA D. CONSOLAZ I O N E
Cloaca Maxima 3, the city’s into Piazza Campitelli Ponte PIAZZA T
great sewer, and one arch of a and walk up to Santa V. DEL POLITEAMA Ponte Garibaldi Isola Fabricio SAVELLO 7 D E L
MONTE
ruined bridge, known as the Maria in Campitelli 9 Tiberina VIA D EI FIENILI
Ponte Rotto 4. In Via Petroselli (see p153). The V. DELLA PELLICCIA u 6 V I A
L U N G O T E V E R E S A N Z I O
stands the rather extraordinary church honors VIA D. SCALA VIA D. RENELLA a Ponte Cestio i
VIA D. MORO
medieval Casa dei Crescenzi 5 a miraculous PIAZZA LUNGOT. DEI ANGUILLARA 5
(see p205), decorated with image of the VIA DELLA LUNGARETTA p 4 PIAZZA D. VIA DI S. TEODORO
SONNINO
fragments of Roman temples. Virgin credited s o BOCCA
DELLA
Passing the modern Anagrafe with halting the PIAZZA IN Ponte VERITÀ
PISCINULA
(public records office) 6, built plague in 1656. The Palatino 2
on the site of the old Roman 16th-century piazza 3 V I A D E I C E R C H I
port, you come to San Nicola was the home of 1
in Carcere 7 (see p153). Flaminio Ponzio, its
You are now in the Foro architect, who lived
Olitorio, Rome’s ancient at No. 6. Take Via dei
vegetable market. To the east Delfini to Piazza
stand the ruins of a Roman Margana, where you
portico and the medieval house should look up at the
of the Pierleoni family. Head for 14th-century tower of
the massive Theater of Marcellus the Margani family 0.
Retrace your steps,
then go up Via dei
Funari (Street of the
Rope makers) to the
16th-century facade
of Santa Caterina
dei Funari q.
The Ghetto
From Piazza Lovatelli
take Via Sant’Angelo
in Pescheria, which
leads to the ruined
4 Arch of the Ponte Rotto Portico of Octavia w 9 Main altar of Santa Maria in Campitelli
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