Page 280 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome

278  ROME AREA B Y AREA

A One-Hour Walk Along Via Giulia

Laid out by Bramante for Pope Julius II in the early
16th century, Via Giulia was one of the first Renaissance
streets to slice through Rome’s jumble of medieval
alleys. The original plan included new law courts in a
central piazza, but this project was abandoned for lack
of cash. The street is dominated now by antiques shops
and furniture restorers. On summer evenings, hundreds
of oil lamps light the street while cloisters and courtyards 7 Baroque capital on the facade of Sant’Eligio
provide romantic settings for a special season of concerts. degli Orefici

From Lungotevere to Largo symbolize Rome and Siena –
della Moretta there is a legend that the city
Starting from Lungotevere dei of Siena was founded by the Emanuele II
Tebaldi 1 at the eastern end less fortunate of the twins. VIA PAOLA
Ponte VIittorio
of Via Giulia, you will see ahead After passing the short street
of you an archway 2 spanning that leads down to Sant’Eligio
LARGO
the road. This was the start of degli Orefici 7 (see p150) and Ponte Pr. Amedeo VIA ACCIAIOLI TASSONI
Michelangelo’s unrealized the facade of Palazzo Ricci p C O R S O
project linking Palazzo Farnese 8 (see p151), you come to o i
and its gardens (see p149) with an area of half-demolished u VIA D. FILIPPINI
the Villa Farnesina (see pp220–21) buildings around the ruined t y
on the other side of the river. church of San Filippo Neri 9, VIA DELLA LUNGARA r V. D EI BANCHI VECCHI
Just before you reach the called Vicolo della Moretta. If L U N G O T. D E I S A N G A L L O V I T T O R I O
V. D. e
archway, you will see to your you look to the left down to L U N G O T E V E R E G I A N I C O L E N S E GONFALONE
left the curious Fontana del the river, you can see Ponte w 9 E M A N U E L E I I
T e v e r e
V I A G I U L I A
Mascherone 3, in which an q 0 VIA DEL PELLEGRINO
ancient grotesque mask and
PIAZZA
granite basin were combined LARGO DE RICCI
to create a Baroque fountain. PEROSI 8 V. D. VI A DEI CAPPELLARI
MONTORO
Beyond the Farnese archway LUNGOT. V I A M O N S E R R AT O
Mazzini
on the left is the lively Baroque Ponte G. 7 6 DE' FIORI
CAMPO
facade of the church of Santa
Maria dell’Orazione e Morte 4 VIA GIULIA FARNESE
PIAZZA
(see p149). A bit farther along on V I A D E L L A L U N G A R A D E I T E B A L D I 4
5
the same side of the road stands
Palazzo Falconieri 5, enlarged by VIA SAN FRANCESCO DI SALES 2 V. D. MASCHERONE V. CAPO DI FERRO
Borromini in 1650. Note its two VIC. D.
stone falcons glowering at each LUNGOTEVERE DELLA FARNESINA 3 POLVERONE
other across the width of the VIA DEI PETTINARI
T e v e r e
facade. On the other side of the Key
road you pass the yellowish Walk route 1
facade of Santa Caterina da
Siena 6, church of the Sienese 3 Fontana del Mascherone Ponte Sisto
colony in Rome, which has 0 meters 250
pretty 18th-century reliefs. The Mazzini and the huge prison of 0 yards 250
figures of Romulus and Remus Regina Coeli on the other side
of the Tiber. At this point you Nuove q, built by Pope Innocent
may like to make a small detour X Pamphilj in 1655. When first
to the right to the beginning opened, they were a model of
of Via del Pellegrino, where humane treatment of prisoners,
there is an inscription 0, defining but were replaced by the
the pomerium, or boundary, of Regina Coeli prison across the
the city in the river at the end of the 19th
time of the Emperor Claudius. century. The buildings now
house offices of the Ministry
From Largo della Moretta of Justice and a small Museum
to the Sofas of Via Giulia of Crime.
Farther on, facing the narrow At the corner of Via del
6 Relief of Romulus and Remus on Santa Vicolo del Malpasso are the Gonfalone, a small side street
Caterina da Siena imposing prisons, the Carceri running down to the river, you
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