Page 283 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome
P. 283

NINE   GUIDED  W ALKS      281


                                  hectic battle scenes
                                  just above the
                                  smaller arches,
                                  sculpted in AD 315.
                                  In the curious
                                  dwarflike soldiers,
                                  you can see the
                                  transition from
                                  Classicism to a
                                  cruder medieval
                                  style of sculpture.
                                    Now take Via di San
                                  Gregorio, which runs   e Four-sided Arch of Janus in the
                                  the length of the   Forum Boarium
                                  valley between the
                                  Palatine and Celian   take shelter from the sun or
                                  hills. This was the   rain when discussing business.
                                  ancient route taken   Like the Arch of Titus, it became
                                  by most triumphal   part of a fortress built by the
                                  processions. Passing   Frangipane family during
   LARGO  5 Arch of Titus in a 19th-century watercolor   the entrance to the   the Middle Ages.
 VIA   DEL  TEATRO  DI  MARC E L LO   4 2 V I A     S A C R A  arches of the Claudian   in Velabro r (see p204) is what
  E REMO
 PIAZZA DEL
                                                 Tucked away beside the
                                  Palatine 8 and the
        by the English artist Thomas Hartley Cromek
 COMPIDOGLIO
 1
                                  well-preserved
                                               nearby church of San Giorgio
                           Aqueduct 9 on the right, you
                                               looks like a large rectangular
 3
                                               doorway. This is the Arco degli
                           come to Piazza di Porta Capena
 VIA D. CONS O L AZ IONE    ROMANO  5  PIAZZA DEL  0, named after the gate that   Argentari, or Moneychangers’
 ROMOLO  VIA  D EI         FORI    IMPERIALI
 FORO
                Colosseo
                                               Arch t. Look up at the
                           stood here to mark the
                                               was erected by local silversmiths
                6
 ISOLA  V.   D E I   F I E N I L I VIA DI  S. TEODORO   V I A     S A C R A  COLOSSEO  inscription, which says that it
 TIBERNA  LUNGOT.  PIERLE ONI   V. S. GIOVANNI DECOLLATO   t r  MONTE  7  in honor of Septimius Severus
 e  P A L A TIN O  V. CELIO VIBENNA            and his family in AD 204. As in
                                               the emperor’s triumphal arch,
 Ponte  PIAZZA D.                              the name of Geta has been
 BOCCA
 Palatino  DELLA
 VERITÀ     V.LE DEL PA RCO DEL CELIO          obliterated by his brother
 w     8                                       and murderer, Caracalla. Geta’s
       9 V I A   D I   S A N   G R E G O R I O  figure has also been removed
                                               from among the portraits on
 PARCO DEL  CLIVO DI SCAURO                    the panels inside the arch.
 CIRCO                                         Triumph in Imperial Rome
 MASSIMO                                       could be very short-lived.
 V I A   D E I   C E R C H I
 q            M O N T E
              CELIO
      0                    9 Arches of Domitian’s extension to the   Tips for Walkers
   PIAZZA                  Claudian Aqueduct
   DI PORTA                                      Starting point: The Roman
   CAPENA
                           beginning of the Via Appia    Forum, entrance Largo Romolo e
       carrying building materials   (see p267). After rounding the   Remo, on Via dei Fori Imperiali.
       quarried from the Forum’s    back of the Palatine, follow Via   Length: 1.5 miles (2.5 km).
       many ruined monuments.  dei Cerchi, which runs alongside   Getting there: The nearest Metro
                           the grassy area that preserves,    station is Colosseo on line B.
       Arch of Constantine  in an oval outline, all that   Buses 75, 85, 87, 117, 186, and
                                                 810 stop in Via dei Fori Imperiali,
       Leave the Forum by heading   remains of the Circus Maximus   near the Forum entrance.
       down the hill toward the   q (see p207).  Best time: Any time during
       Colosseum 6 (see pp94–7) and              Forum opening hours (see p85).
       the nearby Arch of Constantine   Arches of the Forum Boarium  Stopping points: Several bars
       7 (see p93). This arch, hastily   When you reach the church of   and restaurants overlook the
       built to commemorate the   Sant’Anastasia w, turn right up   Colosseum. There is a marvelous
       emperor’s victory over his rival   Via di San Teodoro, then first left   pasticceria on the corner of Via dei
       Maxentius in AD 312, is a   down Via del Velabro. Straddling   Cerchi and Via di San Teodoro, and
       patchwork of reliefs from   the street is the four-sided Arch   an organic market (Sun) at the
       different periods. Stand on the   of Janus e (see p204), erected    start of Via di San Teodoro. For a
       Via di San Gregorio side and   in the 3rd century AD. This is not   meal, try Alvaro al Circo Massimo
       compare the earlier panels at   a triumphal arch but a covered   (closed Mon) in Via di San Teodoro.
       the top (AD 180–193) with the   area where merchants could
                                                  For keys to symbols see back flap
   US_280-281_EW_Rome_US.indd   281                          15/03/17   3:53 pm
   278   279   280   281   282   283   284   285   286   287   288