Page 284 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome
P. 284

282      ROME  AREA  B Y  AREA

       A Three-Hour Tour of Rome’s Best Mosaics

       In imitation of the audience chambers of
       Imperial palaces, Rome’s early Christian
       churches were decorated with colorful
       mosaics. These were pieced together from
       cubes of marble, colored stone, and fragments of
       glass. To create a golden background, gold leaf
       was placed between pieces of glass. These were then
       heated so that they fused. The glorious colors and
       subjects portrayed gave the faithful a glimpse of    3 Apse mosaic in the   DEPRETIS  V. CAVOUR
                                                           VIA A.
                                           Chapel of Santa Rufina
       the heavenly court of the King of Kings. This walk
       concentrates on a few of the churches decorated     y     t
       in this wonderful medium.                                    r
                           Jacopo de Camerino (right).   VIA S. MARIA      MAGGIORE  V. LIBERIANA  P.ZA DI
                                                                        S. MARIA
                                                                        MAGGIORE
                           Leave by the exit on the right
                           near the splendid 16th-century   VIA     URBANA V I A             C A V O U R
                           organ and head for the                    e
                                                                  VIA DI S.
                           octagonal Baptistery of San          MARTINO AI MONTI
                           Giovanni 3, where the Chapel
                           of Santa Rufina has a beautiful   VIA G. LANZA   MARTINO
                                                                P. SAN
                           apse mosaic, dating from the   Cavour  V I A   I N   S E L C I     AI MONTI  w  V I A           M E R U L A N A
                           5th century. In the neigh-
                           boring Chapel of San
                           Venanzio, there are golden
                           7th-century mosaics,   V I A L E    D E L    M O N T E    O P PIO   DI  TRAIAN O
                           showing the strong                    q       VIA   MECENATE
                                                                  V IA  D .  TERME
                           influence of the Eastern
                           Church at this time.
                                                    PARCO DEL             VIA  A.       POLIZIANO
                                                      COLLE               V. C.  BOTTA
                           Santo Stefano Rotondo   Colosseo  COPPIO  0  9
                           to San Clemente
                           Leave the piazza by the        VIALE DOMUS AUREA  V.  RUGGERO  BONGHI
       2 Domed baptistery and papal altar   narrow road that leads to   PIAZZA DEL
                                              COLOSSEO
                                                                               VIA P. VILLARI
       inside San Giovanni in Laterno  the round church of Santo                         V I A  L A B I C A N A
                           Stefano Rotondo 4 (see                 8
                                                             VIA  CELIMONTANA
       San Giovanni        p187). One of its chapels   VIA   CAPO  D'AFRICA  V. DEI QUERCETI
       Start from Piazza di Porta San   contains a 7th-century          VIA                  DI                 S.                GIOVANN I       I N      L AT ERAN O  V I A               M E R U L A N A
       Giovanni, where you can visit   Byzantine mosaic honoring       V I A                DE I                  SS.             Q UAT T R O              C O R O N AT I
                                                                   7
       the heavily restored mosaic    two martyrs buried here.
                                                        VIA   MARCO      AURELIO
       of the Triclinio Leoniano 1    Farther on, in Piazza della   VIA ANNIA
                                                         PIAZZA
                                                         CELIMON-
       (see p181). Originally in the   Navicella, is the church of   V I A         C L A U D I A TANA     PIAZZA DI  1
                                                                                          S. GIOVANNI
       banqueting hall of Pope    Santa Maria in Domnica 5                               IN LATERANO
       Leo III (795–816), it shows Christ   (see p195). It houses the      VIA       D I  S.               STE FAN O    ROTONDO     PIAZZA DI
                                                                                                          PORTA
       among the Apostles. On the    superb mosaics                                     3    2       S. GIOVANNI
       left are Pope Sylvester and    commissioned by Pope Paschal
       the Emperor Constantine,    I, who gave new impetus to   6          V. DI VILLA FONSECA         Giovanni
                                                                                                         San
       on the right, Pope Leo and   Rome’s mosaic production in   5  4
       Charlemagne just before he    the 9th century. He is              V I A   D E L L '   A M B A     A R A D A M
       was crowned Emperor of the   represented kneeling beside
       Romans in AD 800. Inside the   the Virgin. On leaving   V. D. NAVICELLA
       basilica of San Giovanni in   the church, notice           V.  DI  S.  ERASMO
                                                                                    VIA   DEI   LATERANI
       Laterano 2 (see pp182–3),    the facade of San
       the 13th-century apse mosaic   Tommaso in
       shows Christ as he appeared   Formis 6, which
       miraculously during the   has a charming
       consecration of the church.    mosaic of Christ
       In the panels by the windows,    flanked by two
       look for the small figures of two   freed slaves, one black
       Franciscan friars; these are the   and one white,
       artists Jacopo Torriti (left) and   dating from the   3 Ceiling mosaic, Baptistery of San Giovanni
   US_282-283_EW_Rome_US.indd   282                          15/03/17   4:21 pm
   279   280   281   282   283   284   285   286   287   288   289