Page 109 - (DK Eyewitness) Top 10 Travel Guide - Brussels Bruges Ghent & Antwerp
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BRUGES      107


       of the gates, the Kruispoort,
       a monumental structure
       dating from 1402 that guards
       the eastern approach to the
       city. The earthen bank stretch­
       ing north of the Kruispoort
       marks the line of the old city
       wall, which was once dotted
       with some 20 windmills. Today,
       only four remain overlooking
       the canal. The first, the Bonne
       Chieremolen, was brought
       here from a Flanders village    17th-century almshouses comprising the Volkskundemuseum
       in 1911, but the second –
       St Janshuismolen – is original    Flanders. It occupies an   which represented the interests
       to the city, a restored structure   attractive terrace of low, brick   of a particular group of skilled
       erected in 1770. The northern­  almshouses located behind an   workmen. The guilds guarded
       most mill of the four is De   old neighbour­hood café called   their privileges jealously
       Nieuwe Papegai, an old    the “Zwarte Kat” (Black Cat),   and, among many rules and
       oil mill that was relocated    which serves as the entrance.   customs, marriage between
       here in 1970.       Each of the almshouses is   child ren whose fathers were
                           dedicated to a different aspect   in different guilds was greatly
                           of traditional Flemish life, with   frowned upon. The guild
                           workshops displaying old tools.   claimed the name St Sebastian
                           Several different crafts are    after an early Christian martyr,
                           repre sented here, such as a   whom the Roman Emperor
                           cobbler’s and a blacksmith’s,   Diocletian had executed by his
                           through to a series of typical   archers. The bowmen followed
                           historical domestic interiors.  orders – medieval painters
                                               often show Sebastian looking
                           P Schuttersgilde St   like a pin cushion – but
                           Sebastiaan          miraculously, Sebastian’s
       The massive Kruispoort, one of the four   Carmersstraat 174. Map C2. Tel (050)   wounds healed before he was
       remaining medieval gates  33 1626. Open May–Sep: 10am–noon   finished off by club­wielding
                           Tue–Thu, 2–5pm Sat; Oct–Apr: 2–5pm   assassins. The guildhouse is
       R English Convent   Tue–Thu & Sat. &    notable for its collec tion of
       Carmersstraat 85. Map C2. Tel (050) 33   The Archers’ guild (the   paintings of the guild’s leading
       2424. Open 2–3:30pm & 4:30–5:30pm   Schuttersgilde) was one of    lights, gold and silver trinkets
       Mon–Thu & Sat; Mass 8:30am Sun.    the most powerful of the militia   and guild emblems.
       8 obligatory.       guilds, and their 16th­ and
       The English Convent was where   17th­century red­brick guild­  E Museum Onze-Lieve-
       many English Catholics sought   house now houses a museum.  Vrouw-ter-Potterie
       asylum following the execution     The commercial life of   Potterierei 79. Map B1. Tel (050) 44
       of Charles I in 1649, and during   medieval Bruges was domi­  8711. Open 9:30am–12:30pm, 1:30–
       Oliver Cromwell’s subsequent   nated by the guilds, each of   5pm Tue–Sun, Easter & Whit Mon. &
       rule as Lord Protector. The             Located by the canal in one
       conventual buildings are not            of the quietest parts of Bruges,
       open to the public, but the             the Museum Onze Lieve Vrouw
       nuns provide a well­informed            ter Potterie (Our Lady of Pottery)
       tour of their beautiful church,         occupies part of an old hospital
       built in the Baroque style in           that was founded in 1276 to
       the 1620s. The interior has a           care for elderly women. There
       delightful sense of space, its          is a 14th­ and 15th­century
       elegant proportions enhanced            cloister, and several of the
       by its cupola, but the highlight        sick rooms house a modest
       is the altar, a grand affair made       collection of paint ings, the
       of around 20 types of marble.           best of which are some 17th­
                                               and 18th­century portraits
       E Volkskundemuseum                      of leading aristocrats. The
       Balstraat 43. Map B2–C2. Tel (050) 44   hospital church is in excellent
       8764. Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun,          condition, too; it is a warm,
       Easter & Whit Mon. &                    intimate place with fine stained­
       The Volkskundemuseum is one   The St Sebastiaan guildhouse,   glass win dows and a set of
       of the best folk muse ums in   now a museum  impressive Baroque altarpieces.




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