Page 133 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)
P. 133

New Releases: California



         92  MacPhail Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Tou-                 90  Cuvée Sauvage Pinot Noir Russian River Val-              93  Bedrock Zinfandel Russian River Valley Car-
         louse Vineyard 2017  $55  Mouthwatering loamy and            ley 2017  $50  Lots of sanguine and hot stone notes          lisle Vineyard 2018  $45  Offers a polished yet rustic
         dried beef notes accent the dried berry and cherry tart      accent the dried fruit and savory spice flavors. Espresso    appeal, offering expressive raspberry, rose petal and toasty
         flavors. Mocha and dried fig hints show on the rich, supple   details show on the finish, with cedary hints. Drink now    tarragon accents that follow a long finish to refined tan-
         finish, along with cardamom and allspice details. Drink      through 2023. 1,300 cases made.—K.M.                         nins. Drink now through 2028. 150 cases made.—T.F.
         now through 2024. 561 cases made.—K.M.
                                                                      90  Landmark Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Grand                   93  Turley Zinfandel Alexander Valley Whitney
         92  MacRostie Pinot  Noir  Fort  Ross-Seaview                Detour 2017  $35  Juicy, with good cut to the wild berry     Tennessee 2017  $40  Offers bold fruit, yet remains
         Hellenthal Vineyard 2017  $58  Delicate, with flavors        and cherry flavors, featuring enticing floral notes. Firm    vibrant and quick-footed, offering cherry and cranberry
         of red fruits and berries, supported by fresh acidity and    tannins show on the lively finish, accented by hints of      flavors accented by green peppercorn and roasted sage
         tannins. Elegant creamy notes emerge midpalate, show-        forest  floor.  Drink  now  through  2023.  1,342  cases     notes. Drink now through 2027. 191 cases made.—T.F.
         ing cocoa powder and coffee hints on the spicy finish.       made.—K.M.
         Drink now through 2024. 471 cases made.—K.M.                                                                              93  Turley Zinfandel Napa Valley Hayne Vine-
                                                                      90  Sanford Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills 2017  $40             yard 2017  $75  Rich and polished, with a refined but
         92  Fess Parker Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills Older             Lots of minerality accents the red currant, plum and dried   jammy core of black cherry, toasty pepper and black lico-
         Barrels 2017  $60  An elegant red, featuring fine-           berry flavors. Cardamom notes linger midpalate, leading      rice flavors, expanding and fleshing out toward refined
         grained red fruit flavors that are filled with lithe mineral-  to a refined finish filled with sandalwood hints. Drink    tannins. Drink now through 2028. 665 cases made.—T.F.
         ity and spiciness. Crunchy acidity ties all the elements     now through 2024. 6,178 cases made.—K.M.
         together. Finishes with touches of cocoa powder. Drink                                                                    93  Turley Zinfandel Paso Robles Pesenti Vine-
         now through 2024. 301 cases made.—K.M.                       89  Böen Pinot Noir Monterey-Sonoma-Santa                    yard 2017  $38  Dynamic yet sleekly elegant for a Zin-
                                                                      Barbara Counties 2018  $25  Juicy and ripe-tasting,          fandel, with refined black cherry, grilled anise and pepper
         92  Sanford Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills Loma Alta             with lip-smacking flavors of blueberry and boysenberry       flavors that build speed and energy toward polished tan-
         Single Block 2015  $90  Taut and powerful, featuring         tart, layered with luscious spicy accents. Toasty notes show   nins. Drink now through 2029. 2,400 cases made.—T.F.
         flavors of dark currant and black licorice, backed by me-    on the finish. Drink now through 2022. 21,658 cases
         dium-weight tannins. Chocolate and Asian spice notes         made.—K.M.                                                   92  Bedrock Evangelho Vineyard Heritage Con-
         emerge on the firm finish, with hints of cola. Drink now                                                                  tra Costa County 2018  $40  Generous, with plump
         through 2024. 291 cases made.—K.M.                           89  Davis Bynum Pinot Noir Russian River Val-                fruit, buoyed by a core of tannins and fresh acidity. Ac-
                                                                      ley 2017  $35  Firm and savory, with crunchy acidity         cents of blackberry, smoky anise and underbrush lead to
         92  Sarah’s Vineyard Pinot Noir Santa Clara Val-             behind the dried dark currant, cherry and wild berry fla-    broad-shouldered  tannins.  Zinfandel,  Carignane  and
         ley Reserve 2016  $65  Concentrated notes of forest          vors. Forest floor notes show on the finish. Drink now       Mataro. Drink now through 2029. 700 cases made.—T.F.
         floor and underbrush accent dried rose petal, cherry tart    through 2022. 25,471 cases made.—K.M.
         and boysenberry flavors, which are refined and well-struc-                                                                92  Bedrock Pagani  Ranch  Heritage  Sonoma
         tured. Mineral and slate details show on the rich, savory    88  Angeline Pinot  Noir  Mendocino  County                  Valley 2018  $45  Brooding and dense, featuring blue-
         finish. Drink now through 2024. 132 cases made.—K.M.         Reserve 2018  $18  Taut, with gunflint accents to the        berry and dark plum flavors, laced with tar, licorice and
                                                                      dried red fruit and spice flavors. Hints of green herbs show   pepper notes, building toward wide-shouldered tannins.
         92  Shibumi Knoll Pinot Noir Russian River Val-              on the flinty finish. Drink now. 35,000 cases made.—K.M.     Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet and Grand
         ley Buena Tierra Vineyard 2016  $70  Concentrated                                                                         Noir. Best from 2021 through 2028. 400 cases made.—T.F.
         sanguine notes accent the flavors of hot stone, dried cherry   88  Castle Rock Pinot Noir Central Coast 2018
         and berry. Graphite accents show on the firm, juicy fin-     $13  See Best Values, page 104.                              92  Bedrock Zinfandel  Russian  River  Valley
         ish, which ends with smoky richness and creamy hints.        87  Rickshaw Pinot  Noir  California  2018  $16              Limerick Lane Vineyard 2018  $45  Distinctive, with
         Drink now through 2024. 135 cases made.—K.M.                 Juicy flavors of dried cherry, forest floor and raspberry tart   a brooding sense of rusticity beneath multilayered, expres-
                                                                                                                                   sive black raspberry, white pepper and mint flavors. Drink
                                                                      dominate, with peppery notes on the finish. Drink now
         92  Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir Russian River Val-                                                                           now through 2028. 125 cases made.—T.F.
         ley Vine Hill Flanc de Coteau Blocs 2017  $50  In-           through 2022. 10,000 cases made.—K.M.
         tense red currant and raspberry flavors are flanked by       86  Castle Rock Pinot Noir California Cuvée 2018             92  Goldschmidt Zinfandel  Alexander  Valley
         accents of gunmetal and dried herbs in this firm, direct     $11  Notes of hot stone accent the dried cherry and ce-      Fidelity Nick Goldschmidt Railyard 2018  $18  See
         version. Leafy accents show on the savory finish. Power-     dar flavors. Creamy hints show on the finish. Drink now.     Smart Buys, page 102.
         fully pure and focused. Drink now through 2025. 1,200        75,370 cases made.—K.M.                                      91  Goldschmidt Zinfandel  Alexander  Valley
         cases made.—K.M.                                                                                                          Herald 2017  $20  Plump and jammy, with cherry, pep-
                                                                      86  Parker Station Pinot Noir Monterey-San Luis
         92  Walt Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Rosel-             Obispo-Santa Barbara Counties 2018  $15  This                per and grilled sage flavors, showing structure on the snappy
         la’s Vineyard 2017  $75  Offers a silky mouthfeel, with      offers beet and pomegranate accents to the dried berry       finish. Drink now through 2027. 500 cases made.—T.F.
         lushly spiced flavors of dark plum, blackberry and dark      and red fruit flavors. Features a savory finish, with gun-   91  Turley Zinfandel Howell Mountain Cedarman
         currant that are well-knit. Well-structured, featuring black   metal notes. Drink now. 25,000 cases made.—K.M.            2017  $32  Densely structured, with a polished exterior,
         olive and baker’s chocolate notes that extend on the mod-                                                                 offering deep blackberry, bitter chocolate and licorice fla-
         erately tannic finish. Drink now through 2025. 450 cases                                                                  vors that expand toward broad-shouldered tannins. Drink
         made.—K.M.                                                   CALIFORNIA                                                   now through 2029. 1,204 cases made.—T.F.
                                                                      Zinfandel & Blends
         92  Walt Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills 2017  $44  En-                                                                        90  Bedrock Zinfandel California Old Vine 2018
         gagingly ripe, with concentrated dark cherry and kirsch                                                                   $25  Plump and zesty, with lively raspberry and smoked
         flavors, supported by medium-grained tannins. The juicy      94  Bedrock Bedrock  Vineyard  Heritage  So-                 pepper flavors that speed toward lively tannins. Drink
         finish features rich forest floor notes. Drink now through   noma Valley 2018  $50  Heady, yet refined and pol-           now through 2024. 4,000 cases made.—T.F.
         2024. 1,060 cases made.—K.M.                                 ished, with boldly expressive black raspberry, orange peel
                                                                      and spice box flavors. This is full of additional nuances    90  Lava  Cap Zinfandel  El  Dorado  County
         92  Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Anderson Valley               and builds toward big but fine-grained tannins. Zinfandel,   Reserve 2017  $25  Vibrant and appealingly briary,
         Ferrington Vineyard 2017  $65  Mouthfilling flavors          Carignan and Mataro. Drink now through 2030. 800 cases       with lively dark cherry, grilled sage and fresh pepper fla-
         of dark cherry, plum tart and blackberry are supported by    made.—T.F.                                                   vors that build toward perky tannins. Drink now through
         medium-grained tannins and bright acidity. The finely                                                                     2026. 1,562 cases made.—T.F.
         textured finish offers sandalwood notes and hints of cream,   94  Turley Zinfandel  Paso  Robles  Ueberroth
         as well as minerally accents. Drink now through 2024.        Vineyard 2017  $48  Features a bold personality yet          90  Seghesio Zinfandel Sonoma County Sonoma
         844 cases made.—K.M.                                         retains focus and a deep structure, offering distinctive     2018  $26  Generous, with cherry jam, dried sage and
                                                                      blackberry, grilled meat and smoky cracked pepper flavors    white pepper flavors, lingering on a sleek finish. Drink now
         92  Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast                  that expand toward broad-shouldered tannins. Drink now       through 2027. 92,700 cases made.—T.F.
         Precious Mountain Vineyard 2017  $105  Rich, fea-            through 2029. 2,069 cases made.—T.F.
         turing cherry and red currant flavors, backed by zesty acid-                                                              90  Turley Zinfandel California Old Vines 2017
         ity. Cocoa powder accents show midpalate, with a lively      93  Bedrock Old Hill Ranch Heritage Sonoma                   $25  Sleek and briary, with generous black cherry, lico-
         and well-spiced finish that reveals minerally nuances.       Valley 2018  $65  Effusive aromas of spice rack give         rice and toasty spice flavors. Drink now through 2024.
         Drink now through 2024. 291 cases made.—K.M.                 way to structured blackberry, smoked anise and black pep-    12,000 cases made.—T.F.
                                                                      per flavors that take on tension toward briary tannins.
         91  Gehricke Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2016  $32               Zinfandel and Grenache. Best from 2021 through 2029.         88  Pedroncelli Zinfandel  Dry  Creek  Valley
         Savory and forest floor notes accent the well-spiced dried   300 cases made.—T.F.                                         Mother Clone 2017  $19  Spirited if rather ripe, with
         dark  fruit  flavors.  Dried  fig  and  citrus  hints  emerge                                                             dried cherry, licorice and smoky pepper flavors that build
         midpalate, with details of loam and chocolate nibs on the                                                                 toward briary tannins. Drink now through 2026. 8,500
         finish. Drink now through 2023. 4,720 cases made.—K.M.                                                                    cases made.—T.F.



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