Page 132 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)
P. 132

New Releases: California


         CALIFORNIA                                                   93  Chenoweth Pinot  Noir  Green  Valley  of                 93  Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Santa Lucia High-

                                                                      Russian River Valley 2016  $75  Sleek, filled with           lands Rosella’s Vineyard 2017  $165  Intense flavors
         Pinot Noir
                                                                      sumptuous, well-knit flavors of cherry tart, red plum and    of dried blackberry and dark currant are backed by firm
                                                                      dried raspberry. Richly spiced midpalate, featuring a fin-   acidity and tannins in this powerfully ripe version. Forest
         95  Fel Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Savoy Vine-
         yard 2017  $70  Unctuous and ripe flavors of dark plum,      ish that lingers with dried savory herb and cocoa powder     floor notes join hints of black licorice and baker’s choco-
         cassis and cherry tart are filled with crunchy acidity and   accents. Drink now through 2025. 209 cases made.—K.M.        late on the finish. Drink now through 2024. 488 cases
         supported by fine-grained tannins. Creamy midpalate,         93  Coup de Foudre Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast                   made.—K.M.
         with a long, plush and well-spiced finish that is loaded     2017  $95  Concentrated and pure-tasting flavors of red      93  Land of Promise Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
         with sanguine richness. Drink now through 2025. 396          currant, pomegranate and dark cherry are flanked by notes    Terra de Promissio 2016  $75  Vibrant red currant
         cases made.—K.M.                                             of exotic spice and forest floor in this lithe, powerful style.   and raspberry flavors are backed by crunchy acidity in this
                                                                      The finish echoes with minerality and dried savory ac-       lithe style. Minerally components power through to the
         95  Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Jo-
         lie 2017  $65  Fine-grained red fruit and berry flavors      cents. Drink now through 2025. 200 cases made.—K.M.          finish, with saline and cedary hints and accents of fresh-
         are refined and etched with rich spice and sandalwood        93  EnRoute Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Les              crushed savory herbs. Drink now through 2025. 200 cases
         accents. The juicy finish lingers with vibrant minerality    Pommiers 2017  $60  Rich, with voluptuous dark fruit         made.—K.M.
         and hot stone notes. Complex and elegant, exhibiting a       flavors and Asian spice accents. Dark cherry and plum        93  Maggy  Hawk Pinot  Noir  Anderson  Valley
         vibrant balance. Drink now through 2025. 460 cases           tart notes dominate, showing hints of cassis. Cedar and      Afleet 2017  $65  Juicy and full of richly spiced dark
         made.—K.M.                                                   sandalwood details emerge on the creamy finish. Drink        cherry, mulberry and dark plum flavors that are flanked
                                                                      now through 2025. 13,000 cases made.—K.M.                    by light iodine and hot stone notes. Shows savory focus
         94  Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Kan-
         zler Vineyard 2017  $165  Contoured and rich-tasting,        93  Fel Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Ferrington                on the broad, plush finish. Drink now through 2024. 353
         with concentrated dark cherry, raspberry and wild plum       Vineyard 2017  $65  Concentrated dark cherry, cassis         cases made.—K.M.
         flavors, backed by fresh acidity. Finishes with a creamy     and dried berry flavors are well-structured and flanked by   93  Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Russian River
         texture and notes of dark chocolate and Asian spice. Very    juicy Asian spice details. Features medium-grained tan-      Valley  Rochioli  Riverblock  Vineyard  2017  $85
         svelte, plush and powerful. Drink now through 2025. 862      nins, with a chocolate- and mineral-laden finish, ending     Rich and powerful, with a plush texture to the richly
         cases made.—K.M.                                             on a creamy note. Drink now through 2024. 215 cases          spiced plum compote and cherry tart flavors. Dried beef
                                                                      made.—K.M.                                                   accents show midpalate, leading to a finish filled with sa-
         94  MacPhail Pinot  Noir  Sonoma  Coast  Mar-
         dikian Estate 2017  $90  Very suave, with an unctu-          93  Fort Ross Pinot Noir Fort Ross-Seaview Fort              vory spice notes. Drink now through 2024. 766 cases
         ous blend of red fruit, spice and creamy flavors, supported   Ross Vineyard 2016  $52  Finely textured and con-           made.—K.M.
         by silky tannins. Raspberry and red currant notes are in     centrated flavors of raspberry, plum and red currant are     93  Wrath Pinot  Noir  Santa  Lucia  Highlands
         the driver’s seat, driven by sandalwood and hot spice nu-    vibrant and well-focused in this svelte and direct style.    McIntyre Vineyard 2017  $49  Robust and powerful,
         ances. The fresh finish is loaded with minerally richness.   Mineral and spice notes linger on the fresh, crunchy fin-    with concentrated and pure-tasting flavors of dark cherry
         Drink now through 2025. 500 cases made.—K.M.                 ish, with peppery hints. Drink now through 2023. 309         and dried blueberry, backed by fresh acidity. Mineral and
                                                                      cases made.—K.M.                                             cardamom notes flood the lively finish. Drink now through
         94  Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Russian River
         Valley Eastside Road Neighbors 2017  $59  This is            93  Kanzler Pinot  Noir  Russian  River  Valley              2025. 398 cases made.—K.M.
         loaded with lusciously spiced and broad-textured flavors     Walker Station 2017  $72  Bright, open-textured and          92  El Molino Pinot Noir Rutherford 2016  $70
         of cherry, plum tart and dried fig that resonate with lithe   filled with intense minerality to the macerated cherry and   Takes on mature notes, with a savory core of dried cherry
         minerality. Complex, featuring an elegant finish that is     crushed raspberry flavors. Hints of white pepper and dried   and berry flavors, supported by medium-grained tannins.
         rich and filled with light chocolate mousse overtones.       thyme show on the delicate finish. Drink now through         Mulled spice accents show on the rich finish. Drink now
         Drink now through 2026. 1,289 cases made.—K.M.               2025. 165 cases made.—K.M.                                   through 2024. 600 cases made.—K.M.

         94  Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Russian River                 93  Kosta  Browne Pinot  Noir  Russian  River                92  EnRoute Pinot  Noir  Russian  River  Valley
         Valley Williams Selyem Estate Vineyard 2017  $110            Valley Keefer Ranch 2017  $165  Taut  and  well-               Marty’s Vineyard 2017  $85  Features lively dried
         Sleek, with lively and pure-tasting cherry, plum and cur-    framed, showing good cut to the dried red fruit flavors.     cherry and berry flavors overlain with savory richness.
         rant flavors that are well-structured. Very minerally, fea-  Blueberry and minerally notes emerge midpalate, with         Hints of bittersweet chocolate show midpalate, featuring
         turing a fresh, crisp finish that lingers with spice and slate   savory  richness  extending  on  the  finish.  Drink  now   mocha accents on the finish. Drink now through 2024.
         details, along with hints of licorice. Drink now through     through 2025. 2,400 cases made.—K.M.                         264 cases made.—K.M.
         2026. 663 cases made.—K.M.
                                                                                                                                   92  Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
                                                                                                                                   Hallberg Vineyard 2016  $55  Finely textured, with
                                                                                                                                   an elegant mix of dried cherry, red currant and plum fla-
                                                                                                                                   vors, knit together by fresh acidity. Well-structured, fea-
                                                                                                                                   turing a long finish that echoes with savory spice and
                                                                                                                                   cedar  accents.  Drink  now  through  2024.  1,542  cases
                                                                                                                                   made.—K.M.
                                                                                                                                   92  J Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Eastside
                                                                                                                                   Knoll Vineyard 2017  $65  Concentrated red currant,
                                                                                                                                   cherry and raspberry flavors are backed by fresh acidity in
                                                                                                                                   this focused and pure-tasting version. The taut finish lin-
                                                                                                                                   gers with minerally richness and hints of caramel. Drink
                                                                                                                                   now through 2024. 700 cases made.—K.M.
                                                                                                                                   92  Kenwood Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast The Barn
                                                                                                                                   2017  $75  A deep brick-red hue, this features well-
                                                                                                                                   structured flavors of dried cherry, plum and wild berry,
                                                                                                                                   accentuated by rich, savory notes. Features silky tannins
                                                                                                                                   midpalate, with a long finish that is plush and juicy, show-
                                                                                                                                   ing  spicy  verve.  Drink  now  through  2024.  300  cases
                                                                                                                                   made.—K.M.
                                                                                                                                   92  Kosta  Browne Pinot  Noir  Sonoma  Coast
                                                                                                                                   Gap’s Crown Vineyard 2017  $165  Lively and juicy,
                                                                                                                                   featuring cherry tart, dried fig and plum compote flavors
                                                                                                                                   that are fresh and offer a touch of ripeness. The plush,
                                                                                                                                   spicy finish lingers, with minerally notes. Drink now
                                                                                                                                   through 2024. 2,647 cases made.—K.M.










         126    WINE  SPECTATOR  •  JAN.  31  –  FEB.  29,  2020
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