Page 130 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)

New Releases: Spain / Other International
SPAIN
Ribera del Duero
96 Bodegas y Viñedos Valderiz Ribera del Duero
2016 $40 See Highly Recommended, page 101.
93 Castillejo de Robledo Ribera del Duero
Altos de Valdoso Reserva 2012 $45 This polished,
graceful red shows a mix of fresh and maturing flavors,
with plum and currant notes balanced by loamy earth,
underbrush and leather accents. Smooth on the
palate, with well-integrated tannins and gentle acidity.
Drink now through 2027. 800 cases made, 100 cases
imported.—T.M.
93 Bodegas Protos Ribera del Duero ’27 2016
$36 Currant and blackberry flavors are ripe yet fresh in
this plush red. Cocoa, anise and toasty flavors add spicy
accents. Well-integrated tannins and bright acidity keep
this focused. Generous and graceful. Drink now through
2028. 4,000 cases made, 348 cases imported.—T.M.
92 Bodegas Protos Ribera del Duero Reserva
2014 $35 This red is dense yet lively. Blueberry and
blackberry flavors mingle with espresso, leather and loamy
earth notes, set in a polished texture and supported by
firm tannins and fresh acidity. Drink now through 2030.
20,000 cases made, 150 cases imported.—T.M.
92 Bodegas Trus Ribera del Duero Crianza 2016
$23 This red is big and balanced. Black cherry and cur-
rant flavors mingle with sanguine, cocoa and loamy earth
notes, supported by firm tannins and balsamic acidity.
Shows depth and density. Drink now through 2028. 8,000
cases made, 500 cases imported.—T.M.
92 Bodegas Valduero Ribera del Duero 2016
$35 This red is lively and expressive. Black cherry and
currant flavors are fresh and juicy, backed by cocoa, spice
and licorice notes. Well-integrated tannins and fresh acid- nillo and Mazuelo. Drink now through 2025. 3,000 cases
ity give this a balanced structure. Drink now through 2030.
10,000 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—T.M.
91 Bodegas Hnos. Pérez Pascuas Ribera del Du-
ero El Pedrosal Reserva 2006 $30 This red is ma-
turing well. The tannins are softening, the balsamic acidity
remains lively and the flavors are evolving toward dried
fruit, spice, black olive and underbrush. A bit angular, but
has plenty of life ahead. Tempranillo and Cabernet Sau-
vignon. Drink now through 2026. 1,100 cases made.—T.M.
91 Valdrinal Ribera del Du-
ero Eufrasio Crianza 2015 $20
This red shows good density, with a
thick texture carrying blackberry,
cassis and coffee flavors, supported
by firm tannins. Fresh acidity ushers
this through the floral finish. Mus-
cular and balanced. Drink now
through 2030. 1,200 cases made,
DAVID CUÉLLAR
300 cases imported.—T.M. Owner
90 Bodegas Reyes Ribera del Duero Teófilo
Reyes 2016 $35 This solid red shows a thick texture
and muscular tannins. Currant and plum flavors mingle
with loamy earth, smoke and tarry notes. Dense, but has
enough acidity to stay fresh. Drink now through 2030.
8,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Valdrinal Ribera del Duero Crianza 2015 $17
This solid red features a thick texture, backed by firm tan- la Victoria 2018 $11 This generous white offers a plush
nins, with balsamic acidity energizing the currant, dried
cherry, loamy earth and blood orange flavors. A rustic
style, but shows density and character. Drink now through
2027. 7,000 cases made, 2,600 cases imported.—T.M.
124 WINE SPECTATOR • JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2020
SPAIN
Other
92 Bodegas Frutos Villar Toro Muruve Reserva
2015 $26 Floral and black pepper aromas give way to
black cherry, espresso, mineral and vanilla flavors in
this round red. Powerful but remains plush and bright.
Drink now through 2030. 6,000 cases made, 1,000 cases
imported.—T.M.
92 Bodegas Leda Viñas Viejas Tempranillo Viño
de la Tierra de Castilla y León 2016 $45 Polished,
focused and solid. This red is reserved but complete, with
black cherry, black olive, licorice, espresso and mineral
flavors, supported by firm, well-integrated tannins and
balsamic acidity. Drink now through 2030. 1,583 cases
made, 420 cases imported.—T.M.
92 Losada Vinos de Finca Bierzo Altos de
Losada Viñedos Viejos 2017 $42 A velvety texture
conceals depth and structure in this balanced red. Plum,
cocoa, loamy earth and mineral notes mingle over well-
integrated tannins. Balsamic acidity keeps this lively.
Drink now through 2027. 3,700 cases made, 750 cases
imported.—T.M.
91 Dominio Mano a Mano Viño de la Tierra de
Castilla Venta La Ossa 2016 $19 This red is polished
and dense. Black cherry and plum flavors are fresh and
focused, backed by mocha, anise and mineral notes. The
tannins and acidity are balanced and well-integrated.
Subtle but complete. Drink now through 2026. 4,200 cases
made, 500 cases imported.—T.M.
91 Bodegas Ondarre Rioja Señorío Reserva
2015 $23 Tobacco and leather notes frame cherry, san-
guine, black tea and mineral flavors in this firm red. The
tannins are well-integrated, the acidity fresh. Fruity and
floral accents emerge on the finish. Expressive. Tempra-
made, 800 cases imported.—T.M.
91 Volver Almansa Quinta del ‘67 2017 $17
Round and polished, this red delivers expressive ripe rasp-
berry, blackberry, mocha and spice flavors, with firm acid- OTHER
ity and fresh acidity that imparts liveliness. Bold, in the
modern style. Drink now through 2024. 5,000 cases made,
1,000 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Bodegas O’Ventosela Treixadura Ribeiro
Gran Leiriña Juan Miguez 2018 $15 This energetic
white delivers grapefruit, lemon verbena and gunflint fla-
vors, fueled by racy acidity. Full-bodied, but remains lively
and focused. Drink now through 2022. 500 cases made,
100 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Bodega Otazu Chardonnay Navarra 2018
$14 Firm and fresh, this white delivers structure and
balance. Apple and Asian pear flavors mingle with min-
eral and smoky notes, backed by crisp acidity. Not showy,
but harmonious. Drink now through 2022. 9,160 cases
made, 175 cases imported.—T.M.
89 Bodegas Frutos Villar Toro Muruve Crianza
2015 $19 This rich red offers blackberry, briar, licorice
and espresso flavors that lean toward the savory style.
Muscular tannins are softened a bit by balsamic acidity.
Burly and slightly rustic. Best from 2020 through 2030.
10,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—T.M.
89 Bodegas Valdelana Rioja White Duquesa de
texture, backed by light, fresh acidity. Pear, melon, heather
and spice flavors are rich and harmonious. Drink now.
3,000 cases made, 600 cases imported.—T.M.
89 Volver La Mancha Single Vineyard 2017 $17
Blackberry and currant flavors show a ripe, syrupy char-
acter in this rich red, backed with mint, espresso and loamy
earth notes. The muscular tannins are well-integrated,
balanced by sweet-tart acidity. Big, in the modern style.
Drink now through 2024. 10,000 cases made, 5,000 cases
imported.—T.M.
88 Bodegas Atalaya Almansa La Atalaya del
Camino 2017 $16 This big red is thick and jammy,
with currant and boysenberry flavors, framed by cocoa,
cola, clove and sandalwood notes. Sweet-tart acidity bal-
ances the firm tannins. A ripe, modern style. Alicante
Bouschet and Monastrell. Drink now through 2026. 4,500
cases made, 2,500 cases imported.—T.M.
88 Bodegas Ontañon Rioja Rosado Clarete 2018
$14 Bright flavors of berry and watermelon mingle with
spice and citrus notes in this dry rosé. Firm acidity sup-
ports the silky texture and a touch of tannins adds grip.
Viura and Tempranillo. Drink now. 3,000 cases made,
2,000 cases imported.—T.M.
88 Bodegas Ontañon Tempranillo Blanco Rioja
2017 $16 This polished white shows traditional flavors
of tarragon, beeswax and dried apple, with notes of spice
and vanilla. Firm acidity keeps this focused. A savory style.
Drink now. 4,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—T.M.
88 Viña Tridado Tempranillo Spain Altos d’Oliva
2018 $9 Fresh and focused, this light red delivers bright
flavors of cherry, berry, spice and vanilla, with light tan-
nins and lively citrusy acidity. Sprightly and graceful.
Drink now. 15,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—T.M.
87 Bodegas Franco-Españolas Rioja White
Bordón 2018 $10 See Best Values, page 104.
87 Bodegas Luzón Macabeo-Sauvignon Blanc
Jumilla Colleción 2018 $10 Peach and tangerine
flavors are bright and juicy in this round, fresh white.
Light briny and herbal notes add interest. Macabeo and
Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now. 6,000 cases made, 1,200
cases imported.—T.M.
86 Vicente Gandía Garnacha Tintorera Valencia
El Miracle by Mariscal Old Vine 2017 $15 This solid
red delivers a core of cherry, berry and cola flavors, with
herbal, anise and tarry accents. Features firm tannins and
gentle acidity. Drink now through 2023. 50,000 cases
made, 5,000 cases imported.—T.M.
INTERNATIONAL
92 Reyneke Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch 2018
$34 Pure and expressive, with a gorgeous mix of pear,
yellow apple and green almond flavors, carried by sleek
minerality and vibrant acidity. Beautifully structured,
showing a bit of crunchiness midpalate, while honeysuckle
and cardamom notes echo in the background. Good
length. From South Africa. Drink now through 2028.
1,065 cases made, 200 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Concha y Toro Carmenère Peumo Serie
Riberas Gran Reserva 2018 $17 See Smart Buys,
page 102.
89 Viña Maipo Carmenère Peumo Gran Devo-
ción Gran Reserva 2018 $20 Lithe, with intense
dried savory notes to the juicy red plum, currant and spiced
cherry flavors. The fresh, crisp finish lingers with zesty
minerality. From Chile. Drink now through 2024. 4,089
cases made, 4,000 cases imported.—K.M.
89 Viña Siegel 1234 Reserva Colchagua Valley
2018 $15 Fleshy, with a tannic backbone to the dried
plum, raspberry and dark currant flavors. Bittersweet choc-
olate notes show midpalate, leading to dusty overtones
on the spicy finish. Syrah, Carmenère, Petit Verdot and
Cabernet Franc. From Chile. Drink now through 2023.
5,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—K.M.
88 Concha y Toro Malbec Marchigue Serie
Riberas Gran Reserva 2017 $17 Juicy, with loamy
accents to the roasted plum and dried raspberry flavors.
Christmas pudding notes linger on the spicy finish.
From Chile. Drink now. 72,000 cases made, 5,000 cases
imported.—K.M.