Page 129 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)

New Releases: New Zealand / Portugal / Spain
90 Tiki Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2018 $15
Offers a fresh mix of green apple, ruby grapefruit and
lemon curd flavors, polished and intense. Mouthwatering
on the finish, showing a hint of matcha green tea. Drink
now. 12,500 cases made, 600 cases imported.—M.W.
89 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough
Signature Reserve 2018 $25 Light and crisp, with
a fresh herb note of lemon verbena, a core of tangerine
and lemon flavors and a hint of flint. Drink now. 6,500
cases made, 4,200 cases imported.—M.W.
89 Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Icon
2018 $20 Shows good intensity to the peach, citrus
and Key lime flavors on a bright, fresh frame. Appealing
for the focus and long finish. Drink now. 8,000 cases made,
3,000 cases imported.—M.W.
88 Innocent Bystander Sauvignon Blanc Marl-
borough 2018 $15 Tart and tangy, with a core of
grapefruit and lime flavors. Offers zingy acidity and a whiff
of white flowers. Drink now. 7,000 cases imported.—M.W.
88 Tussock Jumper Sauvignon Blanc Marlbor-
ough 2019 $13 Citrus and green apple flavors are juicy
and refreshing, with lemon meringue, Asian pear and
white grapefruit notes coming out on the finish. Drink
now. 45,000 cases made, 25,000 cases imported.—M.W.
86 Island Nation Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough
2019 $13 Light and mouthwatering, with zingy grape-
fruit and green apple flavors, showing a hint of white pep- cases imported.—G.S.
per. Drink now. 50,000 cases made, 50,000 cases
imported.—M.W.
PORTUGAL
93 Cartuxa Fundação Eugénio de Almeida Alen-
tejo Pêra-Manca 2014 $350 A powerful red, with
sinewy tannins structuring the focused yet dense core of
blackberry and dried currant flavors, flanked by cedar, iron
and Earl Grey tea accents. A thread of baking spice and
espresso adds a touch of richness through the long, min-
eral-driven finish. Trincadeira and Aragonez. Drink now
through 2026. 1,300 cases made, 250 cases imported.—G.S.
93 Quinta do Vallado Touriga Nacional Douro
2016 $60 A very appealing, full-bodied red, with aro-
matic violet accents surrounding the ripe raspberry and
black cherry flavors, interwoven with baking spice and
licorice details. Plush tannins envelop the mineral, moun-
tain herb and tea notes on the long finish. Drink now
through 2028. 2,666 cases made, 400 cases imported.—G.S.
91 Quinta do Vallado Douro 2017 $23 Ample
mineral and spice notes underpin the black currant, red
plum and boysenberry flavors of this supple red. Shows
good energy, with violet and black tea details on the long
finish. Moderate tannins. Drink now through 2025.
16,660 cases made, 200 cases imported.—G.S.
90 João Cabral de Almeida Alvarinho Minho
Camaleao 2018 $20 A flinty underpinning marks
the crunchy apple, peach and gooseberry notes of this en-
ergetic white, with accents of herb on the brisk finish.
Fresh, showing elegance. Drink now through 2021. 1,500
cases made, 750 cases imported.—G.S.
90 Cartuxa Fundação Eugénio de Almeida Alen-
tejo Cartuxa Évora Reserva 2014 $45 A concen-
trated, broad red, boasting cherry tart and raspberry
reduction notes, richly accented by milk chocolate, hot
stone and licorice undertones. Details of floral and herb
linger into the tannic finish. Drink now through 2024.
6,500 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.—G.S.
90 Herdade dos Coelheiros Alentejo 2016 $18
Underpinnings of graphite, black tea and wild herb give
focus and depth to the dark cherry and currant flavors of
this driven, medium-bodied red, with touches of savory
spice and licorice lingering through the moderately
tannic finish. Drink now through 2025. 1,780 cases made,
350 cases imported.—G.S.
89 Casa Agrícola Alexandre Relvas Alentejo
Ciconia The Reserva 2017 $25 This energetic, full-
bodied red features a brambly core, with raspberry and
currant fruit matched to iron, savory spice and dried herb
elements. The firm, integrated tannins and tangy acidity
lend support through the lingering finish. Aragonez,
Touriga Nacional and Syrah. Drink now through 2024.
9,800 cases made, 7,000 cases imported.—G.S.
88 Prats & Symington Douro Prazo de Roriz
2017 $17 Focused and energetic, with cherry and
boysenberry fruit flavors that are tangy and lightly spiced.
Hints of violet and iron mark the moderately tannic
finish. Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca. Drink
now through 2023. 6,650 cases made, 1,500 cases
imported.—G.S.
87 Casa Santos Lima Lisboa White Colossal
Reserva 2018 $15 Light- to medium-bodied, with a
creamy freshness to the lemon, green apple and peach
flavors, edged with floral and spice accents on the linger- vors that are light but intense, with lively, well-integrated
ing, stony finish. Arinto and Chardonnay. Drink now.
22,500 cases made, 12,800 cases imported.—G.S.
87 Quinta dos Murças Douro Assobio 2017 $14
Cherry and red plum flavors are marked with licorice and
mineral accents in this plump red, with tangy acidity ac-
centuating the violet and spice details on the moderately
tannic finish. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta
Roriz. Drink now through 2022. 51,000 cases made, 5,000
87 Nortico Alvarinho Minho 2018 $16 Fresh
acidity cuts through the lemon zest and green apple fla-
vors of this focused white. The energy holds up through
the clean, spice-tinged finish. Drink now. 8,000 cases
made, 6,000 cases imported.—G.S.
86 Adega Cooperativa Regional de Mon-
ção Vinho Verde Muralhas de Monção 2018 $13
Brisk acidity forms the backbone to the lemon zest, grape-
fruit and apple notes of this clean, zippy white, with hints
of floral and wet stone on the finish. Alvarinho and Tra-
jadura. Drink now. 130,000 cases made, 13,000 cases
imported.—G.S.
86 Real Companhia Velha Douro Porca de
Murça 2017 $12 Details of herb and savory spice mark
the currant and red plum flavors of this medium- to full-
bodied red, with hints of mineral echoing on the grippy
finish. Drink now. 75,000 cases made.—G.S.
SPAIN
Cava
90 El Cep Brut Cava Gelida Gran Reserva 2015
$20 Apricot and tangerine flavors are set on the fine
mousse of this expressive Cava, layered with hints of pas-
try cream, toasted almond and candied ginger. Fresh and
zesty on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2022.
7,500 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—A.N.
89 Mont-Marçal Brut Cava Reserva 2017 $17
Poached apple, tangerine and pastry cream notes are lay-
ered with lemon curd and chopped nut accents in this
mouthwatering Cava. Lively and balanced, with a skein
of spice winding through the finish. Drink now. 30,000
cases made, 6,000 cases imported.—A.N.
88 Isaac Fernandez Selección Brut Cava Biuti-
ful NV $14 Floral and spice notes form a subtle, aro-
matic thread through the juicy flavors of nectarine,
blanched almond and candied lime zest as they ride the
creamy bead of this lively Cava. Drink now. 5,000 cases
made, 3,000 cases imported.—A.N.
87 El Cep Brut Cava Kila 2017 $14 Candied
lemon and grapefruit notes create a sweet-tart edge that
frames the grainy pear, apple blossom and fleur de sel
flavors, all layered on the lively bead of this firm
version. Drink now. 15,000 cases made, 7,500 cases
imported.—A.N.
87 Isaac Fernandez Selección Brut Rosé Cava
Biutiful NV $14 An overtone of candied pink grape-
fruit peel adds a bright, zesty edge to this lively Cava,
accenting notes of white peach, thyme and slivered
almond. Drink now. 10,000 cases made, 6,000 cases
imported.—A.N.
86 Casa de Valor Brut Cava NV $14 Creamy and
balanced, with citrusy acidity framing flavors of Asian
pear, grapefruit pâte de fruit and pickled ginger. Drink
now. 21,000 cases made, 14,000 cases imported.—A.N.
SPAIN
Rías Baixas
92 Bouza do Rei Albariño Rías Baixas Gran
Selección 2017 $30 This white is rich, yet focused
and energetic, offering lime, sea breeze and wet stone fla-
acidity and a clean, minerally finish. Balanced and elegant.
Drink now through 2025. 1,500 cases made, 500 cases
imported.—T.M.
92 Chan de Rosas Albariño Rías Baixas Cuvée
Especial 2018 $20 See Smart Buys, page 102.
92 Quinta Couselo Albariño Rías Baixas Turonia
2018 $25 This white shows weight and heft, yet de-
livers balance and polish. Peach, pear, blanched almond
and wet stone notes mingle over well-integrated acidity.
Floral and citrus elements linger on the clean finish. Drink
now through 2024. 3,350 cases made, 1,040 cases
imported.—T.M.
91 Quinta Couselo Rías Baixas Rosal 2018 $27
Juicy acidity balances a rich texture in this big white.
Nectarine, peach and lime flavors are ripe yet fresh.
Heather and sea breeze notes linger on the finish. Shows
concentration and structure. Albariño, Caiño and Lou-
reiro. Drink now through 2026. 7,320 cases made, 2,090
cases imported.—T.M.
90 Bouza do Rei Albariño Rías Baixas 2018 $20
This white has weight and focus. White peach, heather
and sea breeze notes mingle over juicy grapefruit acidity,
as a light spritz energizes the fleshy texture. Broad and
balanced. Drink now through 2024. 15,000 cases made,
3,500 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Adegas Morgadío Albariño Rías Baixas
Legado del Conde 2018 $18 This sleek white fea-
tures a firm, polished texture and offers lemon, verbena,
quince and sea salt flavors, fresh and lively. A mouthwater-
ing finish brings you back for more. Drink now through
2022. 8,000 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Bodegas Pazo de Barrantes Albariño Rías
Baixas 2018 $21 This white has weight and focus.
Lime, quince and blanched almond flavors mingle over
tangy acidity, accented by herbal and briny notes. Firm
and fresh. Drink now through 2024. 11,667 cases made,
1,620 cases imported.—T.M.
89 Bouza do Rei Albariño Rías Baixas Lagar
2018 $15 Briny and ginger notes give this firm white
a savory edge. A light spritz energizes the full body and
leaves an impression of heather and smoke. Big and struc-
tured. Drink now through 2024. 30,000 cases made, 15,000
cases imported.—T.M.
87 Adega Condes de Albarei Albariño Rías
Baixas 2018 $14 This polished white delivers pear
and melon flavors, energized by lime, sea breeze and gin-
ger notes. The acidity has an appetizing, sweet-tart qual-
ity. Drink now. 200,000 cases made, 15,000 cases
imported.—T.M.
87 MGH Wines Group Albariño Rías Baixas
Senda Verde 43° Norte 2018 $13 This round white
shows a touch of plumpness to the white peach, lime and
ginger flavors. The acidity is well-integrated and this ex-
hibits plenty of structure for food. Drink now. 10,000 cases
made, 4,000 cases imported.—T.M.
JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 123