Page 89 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)

TASTING REPORT | RHÔNE VALLEY

n the warmer valley floor, home to the Southern

Rhône’s premier AOC of Châteauneuf-du-Pape,
Oripening was generally faster and earlier. In ad-

dition, the difficult flowering conditions during spring
persisted long enough to affect both young and old
vines. This is significant because younger vines typi-

cally flower earlier than older ones, and since bad
weather tends to strike earlier in the season before

stabilizing, older vines are often left to shoulder the
load for the wines and provide a bulwark for quality.
But in 2017, producers lost some of their best old-vine

fruit in addition to fruit from their younger vines.
The result is a heterogeneous vintage. There are

some high-water marks among the wines, which in
general are ripe and generous, but overall they rep-
resent a step down in quality from the preceeding

vintages, lacking the vivid, intense fruit and depth
of 2016 or the consistency of 2015. Of the 55 2017
Châteauneuf-du-Pape reds in this report, only nine
Jean-Paul Autard and his daughter Pauline taste from barriques at their domaine in the village of
earned classic ratings. Courthézon, where they produced this report’s top Châteauneuf-du-Pape red from 2017.
Grenache is typically the lead variety in Châ-
teauneuf, but the grape was hit hard by coulure in 2017, causing Despite the challenges during the growing season, there is still

other varieties, such as Syrah and Mourvèdre, to take on increased plenty to choose from in the Southern Rhône, thanks to its size
importance. The highest-rated release so far among the 2017 Châ- and diverse range of grapes. Value abounds as usual, with more than

teauneufs is the Paul Autard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Juline 2017 50 2017 reds rating 85 points or higher and costing $20 or less. The
(96, $100), a blend of equal parts Grenache and Syrah. Other top Famille Perrin Vinsobres Les Cornuds 2017 (92, $20) tops the list
examples include wines that rely heavily on grapes other than of bargains. This bright, fresh, mineral-accented wine has the keys

Grenache, including the Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du- to success for the vintage—it’s a blend of equal parts Grenache and
Pape 2017 (95, $112), which blends all 13 permitted varieties, and Syrah from a late-ripening area. Other values include the pepper-

the Domaine St.-Préfert Châteauneuf-du-Pape Collection Charles and garrigue-laced F. & D. Brunier Vin de Pays de Vaucluse Le
Giraud 2017 (95, $120), which combines 35% Mourvèdre and 5% Pigeoulet 2017 (90, $20) and Domaine Santa Duc Côtes du Rhône
Syrah with Grenache. Other classic-scorers come from Château Les Quatre Terres 2017 (89, $17).

de Vaudieu, Domaine Giraud, Domaine Santa Duc, Domaine Fer- The region’s whites, comprising only a small share of produc-
rando and Roger Sabon & Fils. tion, are plump and juicy in 2017. The Ferraton Pere & Fils Côtes

Rating Southern Rhône Vintages

2017 92 A difficult flowering resulted in drastically reduced yields on Grenache. Crop ripened quickly in hot, dry conditions, Drink or hold
leading to inconsistent quality. Best spots were cooler and later-ripening, with Syrah and Mourvèdre playing key roles

2016 99 This truly rare vintage is a new benchmark. The growing season was warm during the day but cool at night, with Hold
an unusually large diurnal swing that led to slow, even ripening across all varieties while maintaining acidity. Reds
are laden with fruit, yet extremely racy and fresh in feel; whites are pure, brimming with energy

2015 97 Ideal spring conditions were followed by warm, dry weather through July and then heavy rains in August. Hold
Earlier-ripening Viognier and Syrah struggled a bit, while later-ripening Grenache and Mourvèdre excelled; reds
are rich, ripe and full of powerful fruit. In the style of 2009 and 2007, but with better definition

2014 88 Season similar to the north, with a good start, but then persistent rains followed by more humid weather through Drink or hold
September. Earlier-ripening areas favored as disease pressures built steadily; sorting tables critical to cull berries,
with yields markedly lower as a result. Trickiest vintage since 2008

2013 89 Cool but dry growing season, with Grenache yields drastically reduced once again and Grenache-reliant wines Drink or hold
lacking some depth and ripeness; wines buttressed with Syrah and Mourvèdre are fresh, pure and floral-edged

2012 93 Small crop following severe coulure on Grenache, but the wines are fine-grained and lengthy, with deliciously Drink or hold
ripe flavors; well-balanced and should cellar well
2011 91 Warm spring, but cool, wet weather in July and August led to uneven ripening; Indian summer saved the vintage. Drink or hold
Grenache is light, but Syrah and Mourvèdre strong, so blending key; heterogeneous from domaine to domaine
2010 98 Cool, windy spring led to a drastically reduced crop; growing season marked by warm days and cool nights, Hold
with a late harvest resulting in beautifully ripe, racy, terroir-driven wines for aging. The spine of ’05 with extra flesh
2009 94 Warm, dry growing season, with heat wave arriving after veraison so ripening was fast but even; grapes retained Drink or hold
acidity thanks to cool nights. Reds have pure fruit and polished tannins

Older vintages of exceptional quality: 2007, 2005, 2003, 2001, 2000, 1999, 1998, 1995, 1990, 1989, 1981, 1979, 1978, 1970, 1967, 1966, 1961
A score range indicates preliminary analysis based on barrel samples and/or a limited sampling; many wines of the vintage not yet reviewed.
Vintage ratings: 95–100, classic; 90–94, outstanding; 85–89, very good; 80–84, good; 75–79, mediocre; 50–74, not recommended Drinkability: “NYR” means most of the wines of the vintage are
yet to be released; “drink” means most of the wines of the vintage are ready to drink; “hold” means most of the ageworthy wines have yet to fully mature.

JAN. 31 - FEB. 29, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 83