Page 92 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)

cuvées sourced from his best plots and oldest vines. These

11 different bottlings of Côte-Rôtie all earned scores of 93
points or higher in 2015, led by the sensational Côte-Rôtie

La Belle Hélène 2015 (98, $552), sourced from 65-year-old
vines (Ogier’s oldest) in the Côte Rozier lieu-dit.
Other late-release reds for the trophy-hunting crowd in-

clude the trio of La La wines from E. Guigal: the Côte-Rôtie
La Landonne 2015 (99, $525), Côte-Rôtie La Turque 2015

(99, $525) and Côte-Rôtie La Mouline 2015 (98, $525). In
Hermitage, the M. Chapoutier Ermitage L’Ermite 2016 (98,
$565) and Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 2016 (97, $340)

are rare gems, while Cornas delivers the A. Clape Cornas
2016 (98, $150), which maintains its stellar track record

and provides arguably the best relative value among the
region’s cellar-worthy wines. Among late-release whites,
Chave’s Hermitage White 2016 (98, $340) is a stunner.

With 2016 and 2015 firmly cemented as classic years,
2017 looks to be the keystone in a truly special run of vin-
tages, as both 2018 and 2019 appear to be exceptional as

well. The 2018 vintage was another warm and dry year
marred only by early mildew pressure, yielding richly lay-
Northern Rhône vintner Stéphane Ogier released a trove of high-scoring late-release 2015 reds
from his network of vineyards in Côte-Rôtie, including a number of classic-rated bottlings. ered wines for those who managed to save the crop. The
2019 growing season was warm but not hot and also exceed-
Pilon also make outstanding whites, with some values to be had, ingly dry, saved by a mid-August rain that refreshed the vines. It’s

including Villard’s St.-Joseph White Fruit d’Avilleran 2017 (92, still early, but the wines seem to have the concentration of 2018
$30) and Pilon’s St.-Péray Les Maisons de Victor 2017 (91, $30). and 2015, though with better acidity.
There are also a lot of late releases from the compelling 2015 If these next two vintages fulfill their promise in the Northern

and 2016 vintages arriving at U.S. retailers now. The 2015s offer Rhône, it would make for an unprecedented run of five consecu-
dense fruit and terrific cellaring potential, with Côte-Rôtie putting tive harvests of classic quality for the region. The same is nearly

in a very special performance in the vintage. true in the Southern Rhône, which looks to keep pace in ’18 and
Among the highlights are the wines from Stéphane Ogier, which ’19. That would give the south an impressive run of its own, with
return to the U.S. market after a two-year absence due to an im- only the ’17s missing the classic mark. The future is clearly bright

porter switch. Ogier has expanded his lineup, starting with a base- for the Rhône Valley. Time to explore all the region has to offer.
level Côte-Rôtie, a series of single-vineyard lieux-dits, a reserve Senior editor James Molesworth is Wine Spectator’s lead taster on the

bottling that is a blend of lieux-dits, and three micro-production wines of the Rhône Valley.

Rating Northern Rhône Vintages

2017 97 The north enjoyed a long, warm and dry season with cool nights and well-timed rains near the end to help finish Hold
ripening; no serious weather issues as in the south. Reds are ripe and seductive; whites are juicy and well-detailed
2016 97 An admirable follow-up to 2015. A wet spring led to a late-running season; Hermitage was hit by hail in April, Hold
reducing the crop, yet hot weather from July through September spurred ripening and an Indian summer persisted
through October. Reds are ripe, focused and pure; whites are scintillating, with freshness and purity
2015 99 The north’s new benchmark; a vintage marked by heat and drought, but without the downside as nights were cool, Hold
maintaining acidity, and rains well-timed for ideal ripening. Reds are rich in both fruit and terroir, with ample but
integrated structure; whites are vibrant and pure. Rivaled only by 2016, 2010, 1990 and 1961
2014 89 An inconsistent year, with rain in June and July leading to disease pressure. Fine weather in August and September Drink or hold
yielded excellent results for some growers, while others had more difficulty; reds more heterogeneous than whites
2013 91 Dry, cool growing season; vintners who picked quickly, ahead of late-season rains, were very successful. Reds are Drink or hold
pure, ripe and focused; whites are gorgeously aromatic and lively

2012 92 Similar in profile to the south, with reds marked by solid, ripe fruit and refined, lengthy finishes; the best should Drink or hold
age well. Whites also excellent, though not as vivacious as ’11. A very consistent year
2011 92 Early, warm start to the growing season, but cool, wet second half. Syrah performed well through harvest, which Drink or hold
extended late; more consistent than the south, with many excellent wines
2010 98 Excellent growing season backed by well-timed September rain and Indian summer led to a late harvest of terrific Hold
quality. Reds are racy and loaded with minerality; whites are bright, with gorgeous definition

2009 96 Warm, dry season led to early harvest, but mid-August rain and cool nights kept grapes fresh. Reds are rich and Drink or hold
polished, whites ripe and rounded; excellent overall and very consistent, with normal yields

Older vintages of exceptional quality: 2005, 2003, 1999, 1998, 1995, 1990, 1989, 1985, 1982, 1979, 1978, 1976, 1969, 1966, 1964, 1961, 1959
A score range indicates a preliminary rating based on barrel samples and/or a limited sampling.
Vintage ratings: 95–100, classic; 90–94, outstanding; 85–89, very good; 80–84, good; 75–79, mediocre; 50–74, not recommended Drinkability: “NYR” means most of the wines of the vintage are
yet to be released; “drink” means most of the wines of the vintage are ready to drink; “hold” means most of the ageworthy wines have yet to fully mature.

86 WINE SPECTATOR • JAN. 31 - FEB. 29, 2020