Page 90 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)

TASTING REPORT | RHÔNE VALLEY

du Rhône-Villages White Laudun 2017 (91, $18) and Michel Gas-
CÔTE-RÔTIE
sier Costières de Nîmes White Château de Nages Vieilles Vignes
VIENNE
2017 (90, $17) are prime examples.
CONDRIEU
AMPUIS

The Northern Rhône
CHAVANAY

he Northern Rhône delivers a stronger performance than the NORTHERN

south in 2017, turning in its third classic-rated vintage in a
LIMONY
T row. The weather problems that hampered flowering in the RHÔNE
south didn’t occur in the north, where a long, warm and dry sea- SERRIÈRES

son, matched by cool nights and well-timed rains throughout, al- ST.-JOSEPH
lowed for ideal, even ripening.
ST.-DÉSIRAT
“In the north, the 2017 vintage was not complicated at all,” says
Philippe Guigal of Ampuis-based E. Guigal, one of the region’s
most storied domaines, producing wines from throughout the Rhône SARRAS

Valley. “It’s a sunny vintage with ripe tannins, and there was no
CRÔZES-
brainstorming session needed on when to pick.” HERMITAGE
The 2017 reds are marked by ripe and seductive fruit flavors, full

of structure but also fleshy and flattering in feel. They have good HERMITAGE
ST.-JEAN-DE-MUZOLS Isère
purity and drive too, showing a bit more concentration and depth TAIN-L’HERMITAGE
than the 2016s. The vintage is very, very consistent up and down TOURNON-SUR-RHÔNE

the Northern Rhône, though the best wines are not quite as thrill-
ing as the benchmark 2015s, particularly in Côte-Rôtie. CORNAS PONT-DE -L’ISÈRE

Because the north has a much smaller production than the south,
as well as a later release pattern, there are fewer 2017 Northern ST.-PÉRAY FRANCE
VALENCE
Rhônes in this report—only 120 overall (80 reds and 40 whites). AREA OF

Of the reds, seven earn classic ratings of 95 points or higher, with Rhône DETAIL
an additional 70 in the outstanding range of 90 to 94 points, a very
CÔTES DU RHÔNE
strong early return on the vintage.
The Delas Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 2017 (96, $300) leads the
pack among early releases. It comes from one of Côte-Rôtie’s most

famous vineyards, situated on schist soils in the very northern end
CLAIRETTE DE DIE
of the appellation. Winemakers Jacques Grange and Claire Darn- Drôme

aud captured the terroir to a T, delivering a wine with a distinct
smoldering cast-iron note buried amid cassis and blackberry fruit.
N
Ferraton Père & Fils, owned by Michel Chapoutier but operated
0 miles 10
independently, has quietly asserted itself in recent vintages. Under
winemaker Damien Brisset, the domaine is turning out compelling

wines without the limelight of the region’s better-known produc- Values are harder to come by in the north, with Crozes-Hermit-
ers, while delivering some relative value. Both its Cornas Lieu-Dit age the best bet. The Maison Les Alexandrins Crozes-Hermitage
Les Eygats 2017 (96, $82) and Ermitage Le Méal 2017 (96, $152) 2017 (93, $29) and Michel Poinard Crozes-Hermitage 2017 (91,

are superb wines for the cellar—each priced well below their quali- $30) are solid plays in the category.
tative peers in these appellations.
Early releases are dominated by Crozes-Hermitage, St.-Joseph hite wines from the Northern Rhône merit much more

and Cornas, with Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie bottlings generally attention and respect than they generally receive. They are
released later, after their longer élevages. Other top 2017 wines now Wsmall in production, but worth the search. Based on Viog-

in the marketplace can be had from Eric & Joël Durand, Julien nier (in Condrieu) and Marsanne and Roussanne (in Hermitage,
Pilon, Les Vins de Vienne, St.-Cosme, Alain Graillot, Tardieu- Crozes-Hermitage, St.-Joseph and St.-Péray), these bottlings brim
Laurent and Maison Les Alexandrins. The latter, a burgeoning with lush, tropical fruit flavors offset by bright floral flourishes and

micro-négoce from the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel, is racy mineral notes for balance.
making some head-turning reds, including its Côte-Rôtie 2017 (94, The Georges Vernay Condrieu Coteau de Vernon 2017 (97,
$89) and Cornas 2017 (93, $68). $185) earns top honors among the 2017 whites. A wine of refined

hedonism, it’s plump and creamy in feel, but also very pure, with

RHÔNE WINERY INTEL fine details to the mix of melon, pear, apricot and anise notes backed
Behind-the-scenes looks at top estates by a lightly toasted macadamia nut accent on the finish. E. Guigal, MAP: HENRY ENG
WineSpectator.com/WineryIntel
Pierre-Jean Villa, François Villard, Les Vins de Vienne and Julien

84 WINE SPECTATOR • JAN. 31 - FEB. 29, 2020