Page 144 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary

142  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION SZENTENDRE  143

6 Szentendre seat of the Serbian Orthodox P Bogdányi Street VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Patriarch and so officially a Bogdányi utca
For any visitor, Szentendre is a delight. Its Baroque cathedral. Built in 1756–64, it Winding its way north from Practical Information
architecture, Orthodox churches, galleries, cobbled is a sublime mix of Baroque Fő tér, Bogdányi utca is a lively 25 km (16 miles) north of
streets and riverside setting make it an idyllic place and Rococo styles, its clock thoroughfare lined with his- Budapest. Road Map D3.
to visit. A horse-drawn carriage ride along the Danube tower topped by a tall spire. torical buildings, and packed * 22,000. n Tourinform,
Dumtsa Jenő utca 22, (26)
at sunset will be an unforgettable experience. Inside it contains icons of with many shops, stalls and 31 79 65.
Although known as the largest Serb settlement in Orthodox saints by Vasili Ostoic portrait painters. ∑ szentendreprogram.hu
The Imre Ámos/Margit Anna
and a red marble altar.
Hun gary – Serbs fled here from the Turks after the Battle In the gardens, the Museum of Museum at No. 10 commem- Transport
of Kosovo Polje in 1389, and again after the Battle of Serbian Orthodox Ecclesi asti cal orates the life and work of £ Szentendre (hév). @
Belgrade in 1690 – it was the Romans who founded the Art has some 2,000 icons, painters Imre Ámos and Margit Dunakanyar Körút. 4 Dunakorzó
town in the 4th century. Many Serbs moved away in vestments, treasures and art Anna, who married in 1936 and (summer only).
the 1920s and artists moved in, attracted by the town’s The Szamos Marzipan Museum, a homage objects, all brought here in moved to Szentendre in 1937.
the 19th century after the
to confectionery
Ámos, a Jew, was taken to a
air and light; it remains popular with artists today.
closure of their original host labour camp in was killed by a traitor at
children of all ages will delight churches: testament to the Vojvodina in 1940, the Battle of Kosovo
P Fő Square painter János Kmetty in the exhibition of a wide demise of the Serb population where he continued Polje in 1389. His
Fő tér (1889–1975), a pioneering range of objects, including of Hungary (see p144). to paint. He was body was taken
Fő tér is the bustling heart of Cubist who lived here for 45 flowers, buildings and figurines deported to back to Serbia in the
Szentendre, which is packed years, from 1930 until his death. – all meticulously and skilfully Germany in 1944, 19th century, and
with hawkers and street artists crafted from marzipan. where he died, the church was later
in summer. Its wrought­iron E Kmetty Museum probably in a destroyed in a fire.
cross was raised in 1763 by Fő tér 21. Tel (26) 92 09 90. Closed P Templom Square concentration camp. A wine barrel sign in Preobra zenska
survivors of the last major call ahead to check. & 8 7 Templom tér His wife Margit lived Bogdányi Street Church, at the top of
out break of bubonic plague. E Szentendre Gallery At the top of a small hill above until 1991. Her Cubist the street, built in
On the Danube side of Fő Fő tér 2–5. Tel (26) 92 09 90. Fő tér, this walled square, the paintings are on the ground 1741–6, is another fine Baroque
tér is its tallest building, the Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun centre of the town in the Middle floor, while Ámos’s work, includ- Serbian Ortho dox church. The
Blagovestenska Church, built (to 5:30pm Apr–Sep). & 7 Ages, stands on the site of the ing his accounts of life in a annual Serb Folk Festival takes
from 1752 to 1754 to designs original Roman fort of Ulcisia. labour camp, is on the first floor. place here on 19 August.
by András Mayer hoffer. Its E Szamos Marzipan The Catholic church in the A cross on the corner of
elegantly curved balcony and Museum middle of the square was first Bogdányi utca and Lázár tér E Imre Ámos/Margit
tall, split­level belfry are models Dumtsa Jenő utca 12. Tel (26) 31 built in Romanesque style stands where the body of the Anna Museum
of late Baroque simplicity. Inside, 05 45. Open May–Sep: 9am–8pm; in the 14th century and was Icons of Orthodox saints in the legendary Serb ruler Prince Bogdányi utca 10. Open Apr–Sep:
the choir, frescoes of Emperor Oct–Apr: 9am–7pm. renovated in Baroque style in Belgrade Church Lázár once lay in a church. He 2–6pm Wed–Sun. & 8 7
Con stantine and a large, ∑ szamosmarcipan.hu the 18th century. A few original
colourful iconostasis depicting Since 1935, Szamos has been features remain, including the
the Annunciation vie for the making marzipan and other sundial on the right­hand side. Szentendre City Centre Hungarian
Open-Air
visitor’s attention. sweet treats; today, the name Opposite the church is a 1 Fő Square Museum MA R T I N OV ICS U T CA BARTOK ÚT SZERB U T C A
Next door is the pastel is nothing short of legendary charming building, home 2 Szamos Marzipan Museum Art Mill
pink Szentendre Gallery, in the world of Hungarian to the Czóbel Museum. Béla 3 Templom Square PÁTRIÁRKA UTCA
featuring the works of local confec tionery. Czóbel, a painter famous for 4 Belgrade Church and Museum BOGDÁNYI UTCA D UN A KO RZÓ
artists. The building was once The museum in Szentendre landscapes and nudes, lived of Serbian Orthodox FU L C O DEÁK UT Belgrade Church
& Serb Orthodox
a terrace of six identical opened in 2003. There is a in Szentendre from 1946 to Ecclesiastical Art Museum
merchants’ houses. It was shop and small café on the his death in 1976.
converted into a gallery in 1987. ground floor offering pastries, 5 Bogdányi Street AL KO T MÁ N Y U TC A Imre Ámos-Margit
Anna Memorial
TEMPLOM
Opposite, in an early bonbons and cakes. These can E Czóbel Museum 6 Margit Kovács Collection RÁKÓCZI U T C A TÉR Museum
19th­century Saxon­style house, be enjoyed immediately or Templom tér 1. Tel (26) 92 09 90. 7 Barcsay Collection HU NYADI UTC A Danub e
is the Kmetty Museum, devoted be boxed up for later indulgence. Open Apr–Sep: 2–6pm Wed–Sun 8 Hungarian Open-Air Museum Town Hall Church
Parish
to the life and works of the Upstairs in the museum, & 8 7 FŐ TÉR GÖRÖG UTCA
Margit Kovács
Collection
R Belgrade Church and
BA JC S Y- Z S IL I NS ZK Y U T C A
Museum of Serbian Szamos Marcipán Culture
House
Museum
Orthodox Ecclesi astical Art KAN ONO K UTC A Peter-Paul PÉTER-PÁL UTCA
Szerb Ortodox Egyházművészeti Church Barcsay
Gyűjtemény, Könyvtár és Levéltár Collection
Pátriárka utca 5. Tel (26) 31 23 99.
Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue– B Ü K K Ö S PA R T KUC SE RA U TCA D U M TS A J E N Ő U T C A D U N A K O
Sun; Mar, Apr, Oct–Dec: 10am–4pm
Tue–Sun; Jan & Feb: 10am–4pm B Ü K K Ö S PA R T KÖ R U T CA
Fri–Sun. & 7 0 metres 100 PAPRI K A B I R Ó U T C A JÓ KA I M Ó R U T CA R ZÓ
Bükkös Stream
Built by Serbs (but often known 0 yards 100
as the Greek Church) the Bel­
Monument and pretty coloured houses in Fő Square grade Church is the Hun garian Požarevačka UTCA KOSSUTH
Church
Train and Bus Stations
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 500 m (550 yards) For keys to map symbols see back flap
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