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148      HUNGAR Y  REGION  B Y  REGION                                                                          ESZTERGOM      149


       Esztergom Basilica                                                                              . Dome/Cupola    VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
                                                                                                       A steep flight of
       Rising high above the Danube, its bright                                                        steps leads up to    Practical Information
                                                                                                       the dome’s viewing
       blue cupola visible from afar, the cathedral at                                                 platform, from    Szent István tér 1. Road Map C3.
       Esztergom has been a symbol of Hungary for                                                      where there are   Tel (33) 40 23 54. Open Cathedral:
                                                                                                                        Mar: 8am–5pm daily; Apr: to 6pm;
       a millennium, ever since St István was crowned                                                  superb views over   May–Aug: to 7pm; Sep & Oct: to
       here on Christmas Day 1000. Hungary’s largest                                                   Eszter gom and the   6pm; Nov & Dec: to 4pm. Cupola
                                                                                                       Danu be Bend – and
       cathedral, the present structure, dating from                                                   Stúrovo in Slovakia on   & Bell Tower: Mar: 9am–5pm daily;
       the 19th century, was built over a 47-year                                                      the northern bank.  Apr: to 6pm; May–Aug: to 7pm;
                                                                                                                        Sep & Oct: to 6pm; Nov & Dec: to
       period from 1822 to 1869. It replaced the much                                                                   4pm. Treasury: Mar–Oct: 9am–
       smaller 12th-century St Adalbert’s Cathedral,   Treasury                                                         4:30pm daily; Nov & Dec: 11am–
       which was destroyed by the Turks as they   Hungary’s most valuable                                               3:30pm Tue–Fri, 10am–3:30pm
                                       collection of liturgical and
       retreated in the 18th century.  royal art, dating back to the                                                    Sat & Sun. Crypt: Mar–Oct: 9am–
                                                                                                                        4:30pm; Nov & Dec: 10am–2:30pm
                                       early Árpád dynasty, is kept                                                     daily. & 8 7 ^ Treasury,
                                       here, as well as a shrine                                                        Crypt. 0 _ Jun–Aug.
                                       with St István’s skull.
                                                                                                                        Transport
                                                                                                                        £ @ 4








                                                                                                                  Basilica
                                                                                                                  Esztergom Basilica is distinguished by its
                                                                                                                  outer simplicity and inner beauty. A grand
                                                                                                                  but plain façade gives way to priceless
                                                                                                                  treasures and superbly rich decoration.

       . Copy of Titian’s
       Assumption of the Virgin
       (1853–4)
       Behind the altar, this is the
       largest single-canvas painting
       in the world. The original
       (1516–18) hangs in Venice’s
       Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari.



                                                                                                                        . Bakócz Chapel
        KEY
                                                                                                                        The red-marble Bakócz chapel
        1 Pillars supporting the Dome                                                                                   opens to the basilica’s nave.
                                                                                                                        Built in Florentine Renaissance
        2 The North Tower is one of two                                                                                 style, it is named after Cardinal
        identical basilica bell towers which                                                                            Tamás Bakócz (c.1442–1521),
        rise to 71.5 m (235 ft), matching                                                                               who is laid to rest here.
        exactly the height of the main
        dome’s interior. The unusual,
        octagonal form of their bases is        Tomb of Cardinal Mindszenty                                       Primates of All Hungary
        thought to be unique in Hungary.        in the Crypt                    Entrance     Main entrance        Former archbishops commemorated in
        3 Corinthian Columns – 22               Cardinal József Mindszenty was                                    statuary include the 15th-century Dénes
        in total – give the basilica’s          a pillar of resistance to both the                               Szécsi (left) and the 19th- century János
        entrance an unmistakable Neo-           Nazi and Communist regimes. He                                   Simor, whose vast, private Christian art
        Classical appearance.                   died in exile in 1975, and his body                              collection formed the basis of the
                                                was laid to rest here in 1991.                                    Esztergom Christian Museum (see pp146-7.
       For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


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