Page 172 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary

170  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  171

and lumber wagons evoke lake has completely dried up valuable Lajta rock was hewn
the history of narrow-gauge a number of times; the last, in here from the time of the
railway lines. 1867–71. There are numerous Antonines, though quarrying
rare plant species – the park ended shortly after World War II.
P Széchenyi Mansion is famous for its “gallery” of What remains is a surreal series
Kiscenki út 3. Tel (99) 36 00 23. snowdrops – and more than of man-made, uneven caverns,
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; 200 species of birds nest here, colonnades and porticoes. In July
Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & including the Hungarian ibis, the superb acoustics of the main
8 7 spoonbill and little egret. Many cavern are put to perfect use as
E Széchenyi Museum Railway parts of the park can only be the setting for musical, dance and
Hársfasor. Tel (99) 57 72 44. visited with special permits opera performances as part of
Open Apr–Oct: Sat & Sun only. & or on organized guided tours. the Sopron Festival Week.
Visitors can find out about A nature trail across the
The façade of Széchenyi Mansion i Sopron both visits and tours at the park’s grasslands above the quarry
in Nagycenk administration office in Sarród. offers magnificent, panoramic
u Nagycenk See pp172–5. The lake is circumnavigated views of Lake Fertő and is also
by one of Europe’s best
the site of the Pan-European
15 km (9 miles) southeast of Sopron. o Fertő-Hanság cycle paths, which takes Monument, a stark metal sculp-
Road Map A3. * 1,900. £ from in spec tacular landscapes in ture representing part of the
Sopron. @ from Sopron. _ Nagycenk National Park both Hungary and Austria. Iron Curtain that commemorates
Art Days (Aug). 16 km (10 miles) east of Sopron. Road Favourable, frequent winds the opening of the border in 1989.
Map A3. Rév-Kócsagvár, Sarród (Park also make the lake a popular
There are probably more public Admin istration). Tel (99) 53 76 20. 8 place to sail, while the shallow
squares, streets, boulevards and 7 £ from Sopron, Győr. @ from waters are inviting to swimmers. a Fertőd
avenues named after Count Zalaergeszeg. The main resort on the Hungarian 25 km (16 miles) east of Sopron.
István Széchenyi (1791–1860), side is Fertő rákos, where there Road Map A3. * 3,400. £ from
often called “the greatest Based mainly on Lake Fertő, are sailing boat launches, grassy Szombathely. @ from Sopron.
Hungarian”, than any other public which for 40 years was one beaches for sunbathing and n Tourinform, Joseph Haydn utca 2,
figure, including St István himself. of the most heavily guarded many attractive nature walks. (99) 53 71 40. _ Haydn Festival The bedroom of the prince in the Esterhazy Palace in Fertőd
A philanthropic industrialist, his parts of the Iron Curtain, (Jun–Sep).
family home was the Széchenyi Fertő-Hanság National Park European cultural centre. The composer’s work. The focus
Mansion at Nagycenk, which is (Fertő-Hanság Nemzeti Park) p Fertőrákos The small town of Fertőd was main ballrooms and drawing is on his chamber music,
today a museum dedicated to is now a protected nature 8 km (5 miles) north of Sopron. Road created in 1950 when two for- rooms have already been performed by outstanding
his life and works. Stuffed with reserve. As one of Europe’s Map A3. * 2,300. £ from Szom- mer estates belonging to the restored to their glorious best – musicians in the Grand Gallery
his personal effects, portraits, most significant water habitats, bathely. @ from Sopron. n Tour- Esterházy family, called Süttör priceless French furniture, and the gardens.
furniture and family history, the it became part of UNESCO’s list inform, Joseph Haydn utca 2, Fertőd, and Esterháza, were merged. Venetian mirrors and Flemish
enormous Baroque mansion, of World Heritage Sites in 2001. (99) 53 71 40. ∑ fertorakos It was for the Esterházy family tapestries abound. P Esterházy Palace
built in the late 18th century With the eastern Alps as its ikofejto.hu (see box), the wealthiest family Joseph Haydn’s presence at Joseph Haydn utca 2. Tel (99) 53 76
for Széchenyi’s grandfather, dramatic backdrop, the lake is in the region, that the town’s the palace from 1766 to 1790 is 40. Open Nov–mid-Mar: 10am–4pm
was all but destroyed in World shallow, in most places less The main resort on the coast of masterpiece, the Esterházy celebrated by the annual Haydn Fri–Sun; mid-Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm
War II, but was rebuilt as an than 1 m (3 ft) deep, and is Lake Fertő, Fertőrákos is best Palace (Esterházy Palota), was Festival with concerts of the daily. & 8 7
exact replica of the original famous for its vast expanses known for its quarry, opened in built. First constructed as a
in the 1950s. of tall reeds. The lake’s main 1628, which pro vided limestone two-storey hunting lodge in The Esterházy Family
In 1815 the mansion was sources of water are rainfall and for Vienna’s St Stephen’s Cathe- 1720, the grand palace is the
the first home in Hungary to two small streams. In fact, the dral, among other buildings. The result of vast extensions by For three centuries the Esterházy family was one of the richest
benefit from gas lighting. the architect Melchior Hefel and most powerful in Hungary. It flourished under the Habsburgs,
Széchenyi made sure that in the 1770s. The Neo-Baroque whom family members served in a variety of political and military
the ordinary townsfolk of French gardens were laid out offices. The dynasty was founded by Count Nikolaus Esterházy
Nagycenk benefited from this at the same time, though these (1582–1645) and his son, Prince Paul Esterházy, who sided with the
technological wonder too, were much remodelled along Habsburgs during the Counter-Reformation (see pp44–5). The family
and they repaid his generosity English ideas of garden design originated in – and derived its name
by building him a mausoleum at the beginning of the from – the settlement Esterháza
in modern-day Slovakia. The
in the village cemetery. The 20th century. Esterházys moved to Eisenstadt,
Neo-Romanesque church, The wrought-iron entrance in Austria, in the 17th century,
next to the cemetery, was gate, with its Rococo stone and set up home there. It was
designed by Miklós Ybl (see p93). vase separating columns, is the Paul Esterházy who decided
Nagycenk is also the starting perfect front to the palace, at to build the palace at Fertőd.
point of the Széchenyi Museum which the visitor arrives along After World War I, the family
Railway, a steam-powered a yew-tree-lined path. The lost influence and was further
train operation that runs along palace was badly damaged weakened by internal feuds.
narrow-gauge tracks to Ferto bőz. during World War II; however, Much Esterházy property is still Crest from the Esterházy Palace
In the locomotive museum a restoration project, parts of bitterly fought over by various in Fertőd
at the terminus, steam engines, which have been completed, family branches.
passenger coaches and freight Cave theatre in the former limestone quarry at Fertőrákos will transform it into a Central
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

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