Page 168 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary
P. 168

166      HUNGAR Y  REGION  B Y  REGION                                                             NOR THERN  TR ANSD ANUBIA      167


                                               collection of ecclesiastical    family, who bought the town in
                                               art. Another room contains     1534. Patriarch Tamás Nádasdy
                                               a series of frescoes by István   brought in Italian architects to
                                               Dorfmeister based on life in   create a genuine Renais sance
                                               ancient Savaria.               master piece, which, with
                                                 A short walk from the        various additions, survives more
                                               cathedral is Fő tér, today     or less intact to the present day.
                                               the main centre of the city      Much of the castle is given
                                               and a shopper’s paradise that    over to the Ferenc Nádasdy
                                               is popular with mothers and    Museum, the highlight of which
                                               children. There are further    are two series of frescoes:
                                               Roman ruins at the Iseum Ruin   17th­century works showing
                                               Garden on Batthány tér, featuring   the Hungarians in battle with
                                               a temple to the goddess Isis,   the Turks and scenes from the
                                               believed to be one of only three   Old Testa ment painted by István
                                               ever found in Europe. Next door   Dorfmeister in 1769. There are
                                               is the Szombathely Gallery. In   also exhibitions of the family’s
       The impressive hilltop Benedictine abbey church in Ják  May, when more than 50 kinds   and town’s histories, regional
       w Ják               e Szombathely       of rhodo dendron are in full   folk art and period furniture.    One of the outdoor pools at the Bükfürdő Health and Adventure Centre
                                               bloom, the Kámoni Arbor etum
                                                                              The castle is reached via a long
       12 km (7 miles) south of Szom bathely.   101 km (60 miles) southwest of Győr.   north of the city centre is well   stone bridge over what was   t Bük   disorders, and the grounds are
       Road Map A4. * 2,400. @ from   Road Map A3. * 115,000. £ from   worth a visit.  once a moat.  24km (15 miles) northeast of Szom­  well laid out with grassy areas,
       Szombathely.        Sopron, Győr. @ from Zalaergeszeg.                   In 1961, during a search for   bathely. Road Map A3. * 3,100.    children’s play grounds, snack
                           n Tourinform, Király utca 1/A, (94) 31             oil (see below), hot springs    £ from Szombathely, Sopron. @   bars and restaurants. A fair­sized
       The Benedictine St George’s   72 69. _ Bartók Classical Music          (44 °C/111 °F) were found in   from Szombathely. n Tourinform,   resort has also grown up around
       Abbey Church (Jáki Szent   Festival (Jul); Savaria Carnival (Aug).     Sárvár, and the Sárvár Spa    Eötvös utca 11, (94) 55 84 19.  the pool complex, and the
       György Bence’s Apátsági                                                and Wellness Centre is now              Greenfield Hotel Golf and Spa
       Templom) is the best-preserved   Founded by the Romans in              one of the largest bath com­  Thermal springs were dis covered   (see p293), a short walk from
       and most impressive example    AD 43, and known as Savaria,            plexes and, after its renovation   at this village near the Austrian   the thermal baths, is home to
       of Romanesque archi tecture in   Szombathely was an important          and extension, the most mod­  border in 1956 during a search   Hungary’s finest golfing centre.
       Hungary. Built in 1214–56, this   trading and staging post on          ern in Hungary. It comprises   for oil. Since then the Bükfürdő   It is the only 18­hole course in
       twin-towered master piece,   the “Amber Road” from the                 indoor and outdoor pools,   Health and Adventure Centre   Hungary to have hosted a
       influenced by late Norman   Baltic Sea to Italy. Every August          leisure and splash pools, a   has grown to become one of   professional golf tournament.
       architecture, sits imposingly on    the Savaria Carnival recreates     sauna and a treatment centre   Hungary’s largest and most
       a hilltop above the village. The   those ancient days, and             offering various therapies.  attractive medicinal bath    Bük Medicinal Baths
       western façade is worthy of note   hundreds of volunteers don                              complexes. There are 32 indoor   Termál körút 2. Tel (94) 55 80 80.
       with its recessed doorway, a   Roman costumes and engage               E Ferenc Nádasdy Museum  and outdoor pools of various sizes   Open winter: 8:30am–6pm daily;
       richly decorated portal featuring   in battles, dancing and music.     Várkerület 1. Tel (95) 32 01 58.    and temp eratures, offering treat­  summer: 8:30am–7:30pm daily.
       almost life-size carvings of Jesus   The remains of the once-vast      Open Jul–Aug: 9am–9pm; Sep–Jun:   ments for a variety of different   & 7
       and the Apostles. This style,   Roman Forum (Savaria was    Szombathely Cathedral, Hungary’s largest   9am–5pm. & 8
       called the Porta Speciosa   the capital of Roman Pannonia   Baroque church   Sárvár Spa and Wellness   Oil and Water
       technique, was refined here   Superior) are among                      Centre
       before becoming a model    the city’s leading                          Vadkert utca 1. Tel (95) 52 36 00.   Many of the largest thermal
       for Roman esque            sights, with mosaic   r Sárvár              Open 8am–10pm daily. & 7  bath complexes in Hungary,
       churches all over          floors and the   25 km (16 miles) east of Szom bathely.          such as those at Bük and
       Hungary. Inside the        public baths clearly   Road Map A3. * 15,000. £ from             Sárvár, have only been in
       church are original        visible. There is   Szombathely. @ from Szombathely.             existence since the latter
       14th-century               more Roman   n Tourinform, Várkerület 33, (95) 52                part of the 20th century,
       frescoes showing           treasure on show    01 78).                                      when the thermal springs
       the church’s               at the Savaria                                                   that serve them were
                                                                                                   found during oil searches.
       founder, Jáki Nagy   Detail on the portal of the   Museum. Standing   The Magyars built an earth   Desperate to fuel its
       Márton, and his   Benedictine abbey in Ják  next to the ruins is   castle (sárvár translates quite   industrialization, Hungary’s
       family. The church         the city’s cathedral,   literally as “mud castle”) here in       Communist government
       was fully restored in 1890    Hungary’s largest Baroque   the 10th century. Long before     hoped that the discovery of
       by Frigyes Schulek, who also   church, built in 1791–4. Its   that it appears the Romans    the Nagylengyel oil field in
       restored the Mátyás Church    interior suffered great damage   had some fortifications here,   the west of the country in   Indoor thermal baths in Sárvár
       in Buda  pest (see pp66–7). The   during World War II and is   and even the Celts found this   1951 would be the first of
       tiny St Jakab Chapel opposite   undergoing continuous resto-  confluence of the Rába river a   many oil strikes in the region. Vast sums of money were spent
       was built in 1260 for the use    ration work. However, it is open   sound defensive position. The   foraging for oil, though all that was found was what became known
       of non-monastic villagers.  to the public. Next to it is the   Sárvár Castle that now attracts   as “white gold”: thermal water. Some small deposits of crude oil
                           Bishop’s Palace, an attractive   visitors is far from the mud of        were eventually located, but although Hungary does produce
       R St George’s Abbey Church  Rococo building whose Sala   yore, how ever, having been        oil (Zalaegerszeg is the centre of the industry; see p162), domestic
       Fő tér. Tel (94) 35 60 14. Open 8am–   Terrena houses the Dio cesan   built in the 16th century. Its   The Knights Hall in Sárvár Castle, with   production accounts for less than 10 per cent of consumption.
       6pm daily. 7        Museum, which has a fine   patrons were the Nádasdy   superb battle frescoes
       For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


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