Page 176 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary

174  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION SOPRON  175

Exploring Sopron R Benedictine Church the remnants; some of the most
Kecske-templom impressive can be seen at the
A border town of the Pannonia province, Austrian number Templom utca 1, Fő tér. Tel (03) 667 41 Várkerület, opposite Árpád utca,
plates and German-language shop and street signs are much 01. Church: Open daily. Exhibition: where there is an 8­m­ (26­ft­)
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; call ahead
in evidence in Sopron today, and it is easy to forget that this is to check. & 7 ∑ bencessopron.hu thick portion of wall and part of
still Hungary. In 1921, the people of Sopron voted to stay in Built by Franciscans in 1280, this a fortified tower or barbican, the
Great Round Bastion.
Hungary rather than join Austria, and the Gate of Loyalty is Gothic church was given to the
dedicated to the result of that plebiscite. One of Hungary’s Benedictines in 1787, when József E Zettl–Langer Collection
oldest cultural centres, Sopron has remains of Roman edifices II dissolved the Franciscan Order. Balfi utca 11. Tel (99) 31 11 36.
and city walls as well as grand medieval buildings, including It has remnants of medie val fres- Open Apr–Oct:10am–noon Tue–Sun;
Nov–Mar: 10am–noon Fri–Sun. &
both churches and a synagogue. Among other sights are a coes inside and a Kapisztrán pulpit, A century and a half ago,
unique in style. The church is
Pharmacy Museum and an outstanding art collection.
known as Goat Church – a goat- Gusztáv Zettl had to choose
herd is said to have financed it between his first love, art, or
E Collection of Roman u Old Synagogue from treasure found by his flock. his father’s business empire.
Catholic Church Art Ó-Zsinagóga He chose business, but never
Római Katolikus Egyházművészeti Új utca 22. Tel (99) 31 13 27. Open Apr lost his love of art. Much of the
Gyűjtemény & May: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Jun–Sep: money he made in business
Várkerület 25. Tel (99) 31 22 21. 10am–8pm daily; Oct: 10am– 6pm was invested in some of the
Open May–Oct: 2–4pm Tue, 9–11am Tue–Sun. & finest art of the period.
Thu. & 8 Thought to have been built His collection, which
This fine collection of ecclesias- around 1300, the medieval encompasses works from all
tical art is owned and managed synagogue of Sopron is one of Painting of St Dominic above the main altar of the Dominican Church genres, periods and fashions,
by Sopron’s Catholic Convent. the oldest in Europe. In line with has been exhibited in the Zettl
Most items are from the Baroque anti-Semitic legis lation of the day, P Firewatch Tower easily missed if approaching family home since 1955
period, complemented by an the local Jewish community had Tűztorony from the railway station – was (Zettl himself died in 1951).
early 19th-century collection. to build their prayer hall set back Fő tér. Tel (99) 31 13 27. Open Oct– designed by Lorenz Eysenkölbl The house itself has artisan
There are liturgical cups, crosses, from the main buildings on the Apr: 10am–6pm daily; May–Sep: and built in 1719–25, with the windows, frescoed ceilings,
christening bowls, historical street, which is why it stands 10am–8pm daily & spires added in 1775. A local Bieder meier furniture and
altars and paintings. The finest behind two Baroque houses. The symbol of the city, the artist, Stephan Schaller, painted paintings by Rembrandt, Paolo
painting, of St Dominic (1710), Abandoned in 1526 when the The Benedictine Church, originally Firewatch Tower was built on the picture of St Dominic above Veronese and István Dorfmeister.
is by the Neapolitan Rococo Jews were expelled from Sopron, belonging to the Franciscan Order the remains of the Roman wall the altar. The adjoining two­
master Martin Alta monte. many of its original features in the 13th century. Balcony storey building is the Baroque
remain intact, however, including E Fabricius House Museum and spire are Baroque; they Dominican Priory, built in 1750.
E Museum of Mining the recess in the east wall holding and Apartments were added after the building Across the road stands the
Központi Bányászati Múzeum a replica Ark of the Covenant. Régészeti kiállítás és római kori kőtár burned down in 1676. The Széchenyi Palace, built in 1851
Templom utca 2 Tel (99) 31 26 67. Across the road, the New Fő tér 6. Tel (99) 31 13 27. Open Oct– Gate of Loyalty, at the foot of for Ferenc Széchényi. Today
Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Synagogue was built in 1370 May: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Jun–Sep: the tower, was added in 1928 housing administrative offices
Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & for the private use of a Jewish 10am–8pm daily. & to designs by Rezső Hikisch. and closed to the public, many
This engaging museum banker. It, too, fell into disuse in The highlight of this museum’s of the first exhibits in Hungary’s
presents the history and science 1526, and though its exterior is archaeological collection is the E Pharmacy Museum National Museum collection
of mining in Hungary over the in reasonable repair, it is closed lapidarium, with headstones, Patika Múzeum (see pp102–3) came from here.
course of a thousand years. to the public. sar cophagi and altars from all Fő tér 2. Tel (99) 31 13 27. Open Apr– István Széchenyi is honoured
eras of Sopron’s his tory. Another Sep: 10am–2pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Dec: with a huge bronze statue in
display features Sopron and by arrangement only. & 7 the middle of the square. On
the Amber Road. In a street-side The former Angel Pharmacy the north side is the Ferenc A room in the Zettl family home, housing
wing are apartments furnished (1601) opened as a pharmacy Liszt Cultural Centre (Művel ő dési the Zettl-Langer Collection
and deco rated in the typical museum in 1966. It displays Ház), built in 1872. Liszt
bourgeois styles of the 17th fascinating medical items, old performed here regularly, P Károly Lookout Tower
and 18th centuries. manuals dating back to 1572 and the centre hosts cultural Károly-magaslati Kilátó
and beautiful Altwien china jars events today. Lővérek. Tel (99) 31 30 80. Open daily;
E Storno House & Exhib- from Vienna. Mar: 9am–5pm; Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm
ition of Regional History P Old City Walls (May–Aug: to 8pm; Sep: to 7pm);
Storno-gyűjtemény és Helytör- P Széchenyi tér and Várkerület Nov–Feb: 9am–4pm. &
téneti kiállítás Dominican Church Having survived many attacks, The 23­m­ (75­ft­) high tower,
Fő tér 8. Tel (99) 31 13 27. Open Oct- Domonkos templom Sopron’s city walls – built by the built in 1876, offers panoramic
May: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Jun–Sep: Széchenyi tér. Romans and once encircling views of lush forests, Lake Fertő
10am–8pm daily. & Spacious and green, Széchenyi the entire Belváros – were and the snow­covered Schnee­
This grand 15th-century tér at the southern entrance to dismantled by locals at the berg range in Austria’s Wiener wald,
house, the one-time home Belváros is surrounded by out­ end of the 19th century in order west of Vienna. A small exhibition
of King Mátyás, displays a fine standing architecture on all to improve access to the city. outlines the unique natural
collection of art, antiques sides. The Dominican Church A walkway, the Castle Wall features of the Sopron Nature
The Old Synagogue, its prayer hall set back from the street and period furniture. on its southeastern corner – Promenade, takes in many of Conservation Area.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

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