Page 188 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary

186  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  187

1 Dunaföldvár 2 Paks experimental and fine artists, startling masks was originally
69 km (43 miles) south of Budapest. 21 km (13 miles) south of Duna földvár. dating from 1980 onwards. devised to scare off the Turks –
Road Map C4. * 9,500. £ from Road Map C4. * 21,000. £ from but it clearly didn’t work.
Paks. @ from Budapest. n Tour- Dunaföldvár. @ from Budapest. E Paks Gallery
inform, Rátkay köz 2, (75) 34 11 76. Szent István tér 4. Tel (75) 83 02 82. 4 Duna–Dráva
There would be little reason to Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, noon–6pm
With its elegant central square, visit Paks were it not for the town’s Sat & Sun. 7 National Park
Béke tér, surrounded by well- strikingly modern Catholic Road Map C5. @ to Bárányfok
kept Baroque and Secession Church. Designed by the contro- from Szekszárd. £ narrow-gauge
buildings, especially the versial late Hungarian architect railway from Bárányfok to Pörböly
spire-topped town hall, Imre Makovecz, it was completed (regular service May–Sep only).
Dunaföldvár is one of the in 1988 and is constructed entirely Gemenc Excursion Centre, Bárányfok:
most attractive towns on of wood. Resembling the wooden (20) 566 80 76. Boat tours (summer):
the southern stretch of the churches of the Romanian (74) 49 14 83.
Hungarian Danube. Maramures region, it has three
Overlooking the town spires, which are topped This 500-sq-km (193-sq-mile)
is the Ruined Tower, all with a cross, a sun and game reserve in the Gemenc
that remains of a fort a crescent. The presence Forest is Hungary’s largest
which stood on the of the crescent – a floodplain forest. A national park One of the many wine cellars on Baross Gábor utca in Villány
site in the 16th symbol of Islam – since 1996, it is covered with lakes
century. The tower, caused much furore and fens, and dotted with 5 Villány wines predominate around
on Rátkai utca, when it was unveiled. numerous islands. On many of 21 km (13 miles) southeast of Pécs. Villány; whites, around Siklós
affords superb views The town, which these can be found old willow Road Map C6. * 2,800. £ from (see p188). Visitors can sample
of the city centre, is the site of Hun gary’s Entrance arch to the Mohács trees, high oaks and poplars, Pécs. @ from Budapest. _ Red Wine local wines at the wine cellars
and of the Danube. only nuclear power Memorial Park lilies of the valley on the forest Festival (first week of Oct); European on Bem József utca or Baross
It is reached by station, is also home floor, and wildlife including Wine Song Festival (late Sep). Gábor utca. Four of the town’s
way of the ornate to the Paks Gallery 3 Mohács egrets, bald eagles, herons, vintners have been awarded
wooden castle (Paksi Képtár) of 46 km (29 miles) east of Pécs. Road black storks and stags. Hunting A village of wine cellars, Villány the title of “Wine Maker of
gate, a 19th- Town hall clock tower contemporary art. Map C5. * 20,000. £ from Villány. is restricted to certain areas. is the starting point of the the Year”: Gere, Tiffán, Bock
century replica of in Dunaföldvár Inside the slightly @ from Budapest. 4 cross-Danube Most of the park is pro tected, 14-km (9-mile) Villány–Siklós and Malatinszky.
the original. In the worn but still car ferry. n Tourinform, Széchenyi and there are four ways of Wine Route, the first to be set The village of Villány kövesd,
same courtyard is the Fafaragó imposing Neo-Classical building tér 1, (69) 50 55 15. ( daily, visiting: on a nature trail from up in Hungary in 1994. Wine 4 km (2.5 miles) northeast on
Gallery, dedicated to the are four permanent exhibitions Szabadság tér. _ Busó CarnIval the park’s main entrance, near has been made here since the road to Pécs (and not strictly
town’s woodcarvers. dedicated to the works of local (Shrove Tue; Feb). Bárányfok; with a guide from Roman times, and a small Wine on the Wine Route), is even
the Gemenc Excursion Centre Museum, housed in one of more spectacular than Villány,
On 29 August 1526, in a field at Bárányfok; by narrow-gauge the village’s traditional white- as its many wine-cellar cottages
7 km (4 miles) south of the railway from Bárányfok to washed wine cellars, tells the are set on a split-level terrace.
small town of Mohács, the Turks Pörböly; and by organized boat story of local viticulture. Every The village’s Batthyány cellar,
comprehensively defeated trip. The nature trails vary in year the village hosts a Red built by Italian artisans in 1754,
the Hungarians, clearing the length from 2.5 km (1.5 miles) Wine Festival, dedicated to is one of the venues for per-
last obstacle on their march to 40 km (25 miles). There is promoting Villány wines, formances and events during
to Buda (see box opposite). To also a cycle trail, and bike hire, including Kékoportó, Merlot, the annual European Wine
commemorate the 400th canoe hire, horse riding and Blue Franc and Cabernet; red Song Festival, held in autumn.
anniversary of the Battle of carriage drives can be arranged.
Mohács, a Byzantine church The Battle of Mohács
was erected in the main square,
Széchenyi tér, opposite the The Battle of Mohács is one of the most important battles in
Gothic town hall. The site of Hungarian – and European – history. On 29 August 1526, the
the battle itself is marked by a Turks, having just achieved victory in the Battle of Belgrade, faced
memorial to the soldiers who one final obstacle before reaching Buda: the Magyar garrison at
fell, both in 1526 and in a lesser Mohács. The Turks, however, outnumbered the Magyars three to
battle in 1687. Their mass one, and after a day-long
graves are indicated by painted battle they achieved victory
wooden headstones. Five such by nightfall, killing at least
two-thirds of the estimated
graves have been uncovered 25,000 Hungarian soldiers at
so far, and work is ongoing in arms. The young Hungarian
the Memorial Park. King, Lajos II, was killed during
Mohács comes alive every the battle. The Turks captured
Shrove Tuesday, when it is Buda soon after, and ruled
the scene of the Busó Carnival Hungary for more than 150
(Busójárás). Today, a colourful years. To this day the battle is
event is held to mark the remembered as one of the
pas sing of winter. The ritual of An idyllic spot in the Duna–Dráva greatest Hungarian tragedies. The death of King Lajos II in battle
The organically shaped Catholic Church in Paks with its three spires dressing in rags and wearing National Park
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

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