Page 192 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary

190  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION PÉCS  191

8 Pécs E Archaeological P Király Utca VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Museum Király utca.
Cosmopolitan Pécs, 2010’s European Capital of Culture, calls Széchenyi tér 12. Tel (72) 31 27 19. Largely pedestrianized, Király Practical Information
itself “Hungary’s Mediterranean city”. Given that the sun shines Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 7 utca is an architectural show- Road Map C5. * 156,000.
n Tourinform, Széchenyi tér 7.
here for more than 200 days a year, and that the city’s streets The Archaeological Museum case. Secessionist façades can (72) 51 12 32. _ Spring Festi val
have a very Turkish, even Oriental, feel to them, this is not as features Goths, Huns, Tatars, be seen at Nos. 5 (Palatinus (last 2 weeks Mar); Pécs
Hotel; superb lobby), 8, 10, 19
Visigoths and other invaders,
strange as it may seem. Pécs was founded by the Romans, who but perhaps the highlight is and the National Theatre; the Cultural Heritage Festival
called the place Sopianae, in the 3rd century AD. It served as the story of Roman Sopianae, twin-towered St Pauline Church (2nd and 3rd week Sep).
∑ iranypecs.hu
the capital of Valeria Province and was an early centre of a popular posting for Roman at No. 44 is Baroque.
Roman Christianity – as evidenced by the 4th-century tombs officers. A valuable treasure, Transport
£ Indóház tér. @ Zólyom utca.
on Apáca utca. It was the Turks, however, 1,000 years later, who a bust of Marcus Aurelius u Synagogue
has a room to itself.
Zsinagóga
left the deepest marks on the city’s landscape. No other city Kossuth tér. Tel (72) 31 58 81.
centre in Hungary is quite so dominated by a former mosque U Gazi Kasim Pasha Open May–Oct: 10am–5pm Sun–Fri, U Jakovali Hassan Mosque
as Pécs’s Széchenyi tér (see pp192–3), yet no other city seems Entrance to the Zsolnay Museum, Mosque/ Inner City or by appointment. & 7 Jakovali Hassan Dzámi
quite so at ease with the fact. in the historic centre of Pécs Parish Church This grand Neo-Renaissance Rákóczi út. 2. Tel (20) 400 93 01.
Gazi Kasim Pasha Dzámi/ synagogue, built in the 1860s, Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun;
famous for their unique Belvárosi templom shows the high standing the Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Fri–Sun, or by
R St Peter’s Cathedral and frescoes in the chapels and the metallic glaze. Also on display Széchenyi tér. Tel (72) 32 19 76. 5,000 practising Jews had in appointment. & 8
Bishops’ Palace reliefs in the crypt by György are items of furniture and Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Pécs society until 1944, Though this 16th-century mosque
Szent Péter Székesegyház Zala. A bronze statue of Janos paintings produced by Sun. & 7 when the Arrow Cross was converted into a Catholic
& Püspöki palota Pannonius, a leading humanist, the family. Built on the site of a Gothic government sent church in 1714, its 23-m- (75-
Dóm tér 2. Tel (72) 51 30 57. stands in front of the cathedral. Christian church in 1579 for all of them to ft-) high minaret is still
Open Apr– Oct: 9am–5pm Mon– Opposite is the attractive E Csontváry Museum Pasha Gazi Kasim, this mosque Auschwitz. Fewer intact (but closed). A
Sat, 11:30am–5pm Sun. 8 7 deep-red, 19th-century Neo- Csontváry Múzeum was the largest in Hungary, than 500 survived. museum since 1975, it
The historic centre of Pécs, Renaissance Bishops’ Palace. Janus Pannonius utca 11. Tel (72) 31 and remains its most impor tant A memorial docu ments the Turkish
Dóm tér, is dominated by It has a statue of Ferenc (Franz) 05 44. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & Turkish monument. Converted commemorates occupation of Pécs.
St Peter’s Cathedral, which Liszt in a raincoat on the 8 7 into a Christian church in those who were Many of the exhib its
was first built as a Neo- southern balcony. The palace Most of Tivadar Csontváry the late 17th century, calli- killed. Services were donated by the
Romanesque church in 1009 is home to one of Hungary’s Kosztka’s (1853–1919) master- graphy at the entrance and take place in the Turkish govern ment as
when St István made Pécs a largest libraries. pieces, including the startling a prayer niche are reminders smaller prayer hall a semi-official apology
bishopric. The original church, View of the Dead Sea from the of its origins. at the side. Façade of Pécs Synagogue in the early 1990s.
burned down in 1064, was E Zsolnay Museum Temple Square in Jerusalem,
replaced by a Baroque Zsolnay Múzeum have been on display in this
cathedral built over nearly 200 Káptalan utca 2. Tel (72) 51 40 45. Neo-Renaissance building Pécs City Centre
years. Badly damaged by the Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; since 1973. A tortured soul 1 St Peter’s Cathedral KÁLVÁRIA UT CA
Mongols, it was almost entirely Nov–Apr: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & and former pharmacist, and Bishops’ Palace Old Town
rebuilt as a Gothic church in 8 7 = Csontváry Kosztka produced AR ADI VÉR TAN I K Ú T JA Walls PAP N Ö V E L D E UTC A
Zsolnay
the 15th century. The current Located in the oldest-known most of his work in 1903–9, 2 Zsolnay Museum Museum
St Peter’s
edifice, with its four severe house of Pécs, this museum after which he moved to 3 Csontváry Museum Cathedral K ÁP TAL AN U TC A MEGYE UTCA A N N A UT CA DR . M A JORO SSY IM RE UT C A
corner towers, dates from showcases the most significant Naples and went quietly mad. 4 Apáca Street and Early DOM HUNYADI UTCA J Ó Z SE F U T C A
1891, and is the work of pieces of the Zsolnay Ceramic Christian Mausoleum Bishop's TÉR Nemes SZEPESY UTCA M A R I A UTCA Puppet
Museum
Theatre
Viennese architect Friedrich Factory. Zsolnay tiles graced P Apáca Street and Early 5 Archaeological Museum Palace ISTVÁN Archeological JÁNOS UTCA FLORIÁN UTCA
SZENT
Museum
Schmidt. The interior is impres- the palaces of the Austro- Christian Mausoleum 6 Gazi Kasim Pasha Mosque/ ESZE TAMÁS U. TÉR J A N U S PANNONIUS U T C A Gazi Kasim
Csontváry
SZENT MOR UTCA
sive, especially the Károly Lotz Hungarian monarchy and were Apáca utca & Ókeresztény Inner City Parish Church KLI MÓ G YÖR G Y U TC A Museum Mosque
Mauzóleum 7 Király Utca Early Christian SZÉCHENYI KIR Á LY U T C A
TÉR
Mausoleum
Apáca utca 8 & 14. Tel (30) 873 81 16. 8 Synagogue APÁCA UTCA National Theatre
Closed until further notice. 9 Jakovali Hassan Mosque Szerecsen Aquarium- F E L S Ő M A LO M U T C A
Pharmacy
∑ pecsorokseg.hu FE R EN C ES E K UTCA JÓKAI PERC Z E L UTCA Terrarium
M U N K ACS Y UT C A
Four graves at Apáca utca 14, KORHÁZ TÉR Zsolnay Fountain
TÉR
all from c.AD 390, mark one MÁTYÁS KIRÁLY UTCA I RG ALM A T Í M Á R U T C A
of the earliest Christian burial Jakovali Z RIN YI UTC A Synagogue BUDAPEST
Hassan
sites in Europe. The bodies Mosque VÁ R AD I A NTA L U TC A JÓKAI UTCA TERÉZ UT CA S O K U TC A KOSSUTH
are buried under the chapel, TÉR
and not in sarco phagi. The CITROM UTCA R Á KÓ C Z I Ú T
mausoleum, below an exca- 0 metres 100 R Á K Ó C Z I Ú T Ethnographic ALSÓMALOM UT C A
vated chapel, is even older, c. 0 yards 100 Museum Shopping
AD 275. It is decorated with Centre
biblical fres coes. These and RÉ T U T CA SZABADSÁG UTCA JÓKAI UTCA
two further burial chambers Key BA JC SY- ZS I LI NS Z KY U T CA
at Pécs (combined tickets are Street-by-Street pp192–3 JÓZEF A. UTCA NAGY LAJOS KIRÁLY ÚTJA Market Bus
available) have UNESCO World Train Station Station
200 m (220 yards)
St Peter’s Cathedral, with its distinctive corner towers Heritage status. ZÓLYOM UTCA
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to map symbols see back flap
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