Page 190 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary

188  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  189

with sulphuric water. As it found. These are on display at the formerly the County Hall.
happens, such sulphuric water – Dombóvár Region Histori cal The museum also presents
said to be a cure for rheumatic and Museum (Dom bó vári an exhibition of local artifacts,
gynaecological disorders – is found Helytörténeti Múzeum), which is including folk art that predates
nowhere else, and the Devil’s work also home to a possibly unique the Magyar invasion.
has become a boon for Harkány. exhibition on the history of the Kaposvár’s town hall
The town’s thermal bath artificial language Esperanto. was built in 1904 in classic
complex was opened in 1823, and Among Dombóvár’s other Secessionist style, though
is today one of the most visited in attractions are the Baroque its slender spire carries a
Hungary. There are large indoor Catholic Church, dating from hint of the late Baroque. It
and outdoor pools as well as a 1757 and once a private chapel is not officially open to the
section for taking mud baths. for the use of the Esterházy public but it is usually
Other waters can be drunk family (see p171). Szigeterdő, a possible to go in and admire
to cure catarrh and stomach pretty park and nature reserve the interior. The frescoes
complaints. Solaria and a on Gyenis Antal utca, houses a above the lobby are by local
range of beauty treatments reconstructed medieval building. artist Géza Udvary, and the
are also available. A short drive north is the tiny fine stained-glass windows
village of Gölle, the birth place of the ceremonial hall are
 Harkány Spa and Open-Air of István Fekete (1900–70), one of the work of the Miksa
Baths Hungary’s most popular 20th- Stained-glass window, town hall Róth workshop.
The impressive path to the drawbridge in Siklós Castle Bajcsy­Zsilinszky utca 2. Tel (72) 58 08 century writers, best known for in Kaposvár A short walk south is the
80. Spa: Open 9am–6pm daily. Open­ his novel Tüskevár, a charming József Rippl-Rónai Memorial
6 Siklós the Serb Orthodox church are Air Baths: Open mid­May–mid­Jun & story of two boys from Buda pest Rippl-Rónai (1861–1927) and Museum, the elegant Roma
also worth seeing. early Sep: 9am–6pm; mid­June–Aug: who spend their summers János Vaszary (1867–1939), two cottage where a number
15 km (9 miles) west of Villány. Road 9am–8pm, subject to weather. &
Map C6. * 11,000. £ from Villány. 7 ∑ harkanyfurdo.hu around Gölle and Lake Balaton. of Hungary’s most important of Rippl-Rónai’s works and
@ from Pécs. n Tourinform, + Siklós Castle Fekete’s childhood home in artists. It was also the birth place personal items are on show.
Felszabadulás utca 3, (72) 57 90 90. Vajda János tér 8. Tel (72) 57 94 27. Gölle is now a small museum. of Imre Nagy (1896–1958),
( daily, Dózsa György utca. Open Jan–Mar: 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun; 8 Pécs leader of the 1956 revolution E Vaszary Gallery
Apr: 9:30am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9:30am– E Dombóvár Region Historical (see pp48–9). Csokonai utca 1. Tel (82) 51 22 28.
The star attraction in Siklós, the 6pm Sat & Sun; May–mid­Jun & Sep: See pp190–93. Museum The city’s focal point is Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat.
southernmost town in Hungary, to 6pm daily; mid­Jun–Aug: to 7pm Szabadság utca 16. Tel (74) 46 57 15, Kossuth tér. Most of the main 8 Hungarian only. 7
close to the border with Serbia, daily; Oct: to 5pm daily; Nov & Dec: 9 Dombóvár (mobile) (20) 910 80 66. Open 8am– sights are located around this E Rippl-Rónai Museum
to 5pm Tue–Sun. & 7 -
is Siklós Castle, one of the best­ 4pm Mon–Fri, by appointment Sat & street, including the Vaszary Fő út 10. Tel (82) 31 40 11.
preserved medieval forts in the 39 km (25 miles) north of Pécs. Sun. 8 Hungarian only. 7 Gallery, which displays the Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun.
country. The fort, which dates back 7 Harkány Road Map C5. * 21,000. paintings of János Vaszary, who & 7
to 1294, has enjoyed something was born in the building. There E József Rippl-Rónai
of a charmed life. Uniquely 25 km (16 miles) southeast of Pécs. Dombóvár and its surrounding are more Vaszary works nearby Memorial Museum
among Hungarian fortresses, it Road Map C6. * 3,400. @ from area is one of the oldest inhab­ in a Neo-Classical building, Fodor József utca 35. Tel (82) 51 00 49.
was spared by the Turks as well Pécs. n Tourinform, Kossuth utca 7, ited regions of Hungary. The ruins the former Somogy County Open Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–
as the Habsburgs (twice). (72) 47 96 24. ( daily, Bajcsy­Zsilinszky of a 4th­century Roman fortress Museum (now renamed the Sun; Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
The fort’s entrance is via an old utca. ∑ harkanyturizmus.hu were found underneath nearby Rippl-Rónai Museum), 8 recorded tours. 7
drawbridge and through a gate Alsóhetény and the Celts were
decorated elaborately with the According to local legend, the here before that. Relics of even József Rippl-Rónai
Batthyány family coat of arms. Devil ploughed the land around earlier unknown settlers from
From the immacu lately preserved Harkány, and filled the furrows the Bronze Age have also been József Rippl-Rónai (1861–1927) was
ramparts spectacular views of the one of the three most important artists
vineyards of the surrounding area of the Hungarian Secession move ment.
can be enjoyed. Inside the fortress Bust of the Hungarian writer István Fekete, Born in Kaposvár he mastered a pastel-
is a Gothic chapel, decorated with born near Dombóvár like style, seen best in his celebrated
fading but impressive frescoes work Mlle Dutile (1892, József Rippl-
from the late 15th century. 0 Kaposvár Rónai Memorial Museum, Kaposvár).
The Castle Museum, in the fort’s He moved to France when the Art
Nou veau movement was at its peak.
south wing, is equally impressive, 43 km (27 miles) northwest of Pécs. His masterpiece, Woman in White-
containing a collection of medi­ Road Map B5. * 66,000. £ from Spotted Dress (1889, National Gallery,
eval items and an exhibition on Budapest, Pécs. @ from Pécs. Budapest, see pp62–3), was painted
the lives of the various members n Tourinform, Fő utca 8, (82) 51 during this period. It is regarded as the
of the Batthyány family who 29 21. ∑ tourinformkaposvar.hu first Secessionist work by a Hungarian
lived here as late as the 1940s. artist. On a visit to Italy, Rippl-Rónai
Elsewhere in Siklós, the Boasting one of Hungary’s became fascinated by decorative
restored 16th­century largest pedestrian-only zones, mosaics. His later works, including The
Malkocs Bei Mosque, which is Kaposvár is a superb city in Manor House at Körtyvélyes (1907,
full of memorabilia from the which to stroll and enjoy an National Gallery), reflect a move to Rippl-Rónai’s Woman in
Turkish occupation, and the eclectic mix of architecture. The bolder strokes and colour. White-Spotted Dress
colourful 18th­century icons of Exercises in the outdoor pool, Harkány Spa and Open-Air Baths town is the birthplace of József
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

188-189_EW_Hungary.indd 188 18/09/17 3:40 pm 188-189_EW_Hungary.indd 189 18/09/17 3:40 pm