Page 196 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary
P. 196

194      HUNGAR Y  REGION  B Y  REGION                                                             SOUTHERN  TR ANSD ANUBIA      195


                                               House (Török-Ház), is a small
                                               exhibition of life in the town                 Hungary’s Minorities
                                               during the Turkish occupation.
                                               On the field where Zrínyi led   Some 90 per cent of Hungary’s population are Magyars, but there are also significant
                                               his forces into battle (5 km/   minority groups of Serbs, Germans, Romanians and Jews. In all, 13 minority groups are
                                               3 miles north of the town)      recognized, although some (the Palóc, Armenians and Ruthenians, for example) number
                                               stands the Turkish-Hungarian
                                               Friendship Park, set up in 1996   only a handful of people. The largest ethnic minority in Hungary is the Gypsies (Roma).
                                               by both governments. There is   The official figure is 400,000, yet many Gypsies see themselves as Hungarians, which
                                               a replica of Sultan Süleyman’s   means there could be as many as a million in the country. Until Hungary joined the EU in
                                               tomb, and oversized statues of   2004, it had a less than fine record in its treatment of its ethnic minorities, especially of
                                               the Sultan and of Zrínyi.       the Gypsies. Even since then, EU-funded programmes have been only marginally suc-
                                                                               cessful at integrating the Gypsy population.
                                               E Castle Museum
                                               Vár utca 19. Open check website for
                                               opening times. ∑ szigethvar.hu                         The museum village of
                                               E Turkish House                                        Hollókő, while primarily a
                                               Bástya utca 3. Tel (73) 51 43 00.                      tourist attraction, show­
       A typical 19th-century house in the open-air folk museum in Szenna  & 7                        cases Palóc traditions and
                                                                                                      culture. Its inhabitants
       q Szenna            were running desperately                                                   wear traditional costume.
       Road Map B5. * 750.    short of water did they leave   e Nagyatád
       @ from Kaposvár.    the fortress, and even then   28 km (18 miles) north of Barcs.
                           they did not surrender,   Road Map B5. * 13,000. @ from
       The open-air Szenna Ethno­  choosing instead to die heroic   Kaposvár. n Tourinform, Széchenyi         Few Roma still
       graphic Museum is unique in   though futile deaths in close   tér 1/A, Nagyatád (82) 35 15 06.        live the romantic
       Hungary in that it has been   combat. Part of the fortress,                                            life of a traveller.
       established in a living village.   restored in the 1960s, is the   This city has a good thermal   Szentendre was   Most are on the
       Set around the village church,   Castle Museum, dedicated to   baths complex, with three   founded by Serbs   fringes of society,
                                                                                                                with an un­
       five thatched houses with   the heroes of the siege. There    covered and two large open-air   and although they    employment
       wooden porches were brought   is also a monument to the   pools as well as drinking cures,   no longer make up the   rate of almost
       here from surrounding villages   fallen in the town’s central   but Nagyatád is best known for   majority population   70 per cent.
       in the 1970s. The houses date   square, Zrínyi tér. The fortress   its unique Statue Park featuring   group here, many
       from the 1850s, and with their   courtyard also houses a former   the works of a local wood-  Serbs still celebrate
       large kitchens are typical of   mosque, which was   carvers’ collective. The            Easter according to
       post-revolutionary architecture   built by the Turks    park was set up in              the Orthodox Julian
       in Hungary. All are decorated   after their victory.  1975, in an effort                calendar.
       in the vernacular style. The     Another former   to preserve the
       whitewashed Calvinist church,   mosque, also on   wood carving
       erected in 1787 to a late   Zrínyi tér, is today a   skills of the region.
       Baroque design, is famous    Catholic church. It   There are 64            People in Sopron in 1921
       for its ceiling: the artist Tildy   was converted in   A wooden wheel in the   monumental   voted to stay in Hungary rather
       Zoltán painted it with 117   1789, when the    statues (some more       than join Austria. Over the next
       unique flowers, reflecting    frescoes by István   Statue Park in Nagyatád  than 7 m/23 ft high)   few decades most ethnic
       the rich flora of the Somogy   Dorfmeister were   in all, laid out in a    Germans moved away, but         The popular image of Gypsy
       region. Visitors can also admire   painted. In the house at Bástya   spacious and attractive park to   since 1990 many have   musicians is a cigányzenekar, which is
       the highly decorated wooden   utca 3, the so-called Turkish   the south of the city centre.   returned, which has given the   a Gypsy band. It is one of the few ways
       crown above the pulpit and              Considered living art, there are   city a very international feel.  Gypsies can earn a living in Hungary.
       the pews that are installed             no restrictions on touching or
       over two levels.                        even climbing the statues,
                                               making this a great place to
                                               introduce children to sculpture.
       w Szigetvár                             Another 24 wooden statues can
       33 km (21 miles) west of Pécs.          be found in the city’s public
       Road Map B5. * 12,000.                  squares and buildings.
       £ from Pécs. @ from Pécs.                 The surrounding countryside
                                               offers superb hiking routes
       At the siege of Szigetvár, in           in the Forest Park (Parkerdő)                                     Many Orthodox Romanians are
       1566, Captain Miklós Zrínyi and         and the Rower Lake                                                settled in and around the eastern town
       a small band of soldiers held           (Csónakázótó) nearby.           Budapest today is home to one of Europe’s most   of Gyula. Although the two countries
       the town’s fortress against a                                           dynamic Jewish communities. Budapest’s synagogue    have had a strained relationship for
       Turkish attacking force of over         E Nagyatád Statue Park          is Europe’s largest, and the city boasts many Jewish   centuries, more than 80,000 Romanians
       100,000 for 22 days. Only when   Exhibits in the former mosque inside the   Göröndi út. Tel (82) 35 14 97.    theatres, schools and kosher restaurants.  choose to live in Hungary.
       the beleaguered Hungarians   Szigetvár fortress  Open daily. 8 Hungarian only. 7
       For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


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