Page 202 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary
P. 202

200      HUNGAR Y  REGION  B Y  REGION

       y Keszthely                             nearby. During restoration work
                                               in 1974, remains of 14th- and
       Keszthely is the oldest of the towns that line the banks of    15th-century frescoes were
       Lake Balaton. Many of its elegant streets effortlessly preserve   discovered. Lost during the Turkish
       the small-town atmosphere of the 19th century, when the   occu pation, when the church
       town was the sole property of the Festetics family, whose   served as a fortress, these
                                               represent the largest collection
       Baroque family seat, Festetics Palace (see pp202–3), is one    of Gothic frescoes remaining in
       of Hungary’s finest stately homes. The town possesses    Hungary. The fine rose window
       one of the few genuinely sandy beaches on the lake, and    above the western portal is also
       it is also the cultural hub of Balaton. Since the conversion    an original feature of the church.
       in 2006 of a nearby former Soviet airfield into Hévíz-Balaton   E Doll and Waxwork
       Airport and the expansion of the M7 motorway, Keszthely’s   Museum
       attractions are more easily accessible than ever.  Történelmi Panoptikum
                                               Kossuth Lajos utca 10–11. Tel (83) 31
                                               88 55. Open May–Sep: 9am–6pm;
                                               Oct–Apr: 10am–5pm. &
                                               ∑ babamuzeum-keszthely.hu
                                               The highlight of this complex of
                                               museums is a collection of 700
                                               porcelain dolls, each wearing the
                                               traditional costume of one partic-
                                               ular Hungarian village, together
                                               with more than 200 scale models
                                               of village buildings, including
                                               houses, stables and churches.
                                                 More esoteric collections
                                               include about 50 life-size wax-
                                               works of eminent Hungarians,
                                               from Árpád to Imre Nagy;
                                               a museum of torture; and a
                                               display of Renaissance wax-
       Church and former monastery buildings on Keszthely’s main square  modelled erotica. Don’t miss
                                               the Snail Parliament, an aston-
       P Festetics Palace  (33-ft) spire is an 19th-century   ishing 7-m- (23-ft-) long model
       See pp202–3.        addition. The crypt holds the   of Hungary’s Parliament that was
                           tomb of György Festetics,    made by Ilona Miskei from more
       P Fő tér and Town Hall  the patriarch of the Festetics family   than four million sea-snail shells.
       Polgármesteri Hivatal  and uncle of István Széchenyi.
       Fő tér.             The church was origi nally built    E Georgikon Farm Museum
       At the heart of Keszthely is    in Gothic style using stone taken   Georgikon Majortörténeti
       the attractive, bustling Fő tér,   from an old Roman settlement   Kiállítóhely
       dominated on its northern side          Bercsényi Miklós utca 65–7. Tel (83) 31
       by the late Baroque, town hall.         15 63. Open Apr & Oct: 10am–5pm
       The town hall was built after           Mon–Fri; May–Sep: 10am–5pm Tue–
       1769, although the façade was           Sun. & 8 Hungarian and German
       extensively remodelled in the           only. 7 ∑ elmenygazdasag.hu
       1860s. The square is one of             Europe’s first Academy of
       the hubs of the town’s charming         Agriculture was set up here by
       Verkli Festival in September,           György Festetics, in 1797. This
       when the air is filled by the           working museum traces the
       fluting tones of dozens of              history of Hungarian agriculture
       fairground and barrel organs.           from Celtic times to the present
                                               day. There are displays on wine
       R Fő tér Church                         production in the Balaton area,
       Fő téri templom                         as well as antique agricultural
       Fő tér 5. Tel (83) 31 24 59.            equip ment from Bronze Age
       This grand building, towering           tools to steam ploughs and an
       over the southern side of the           early motor tractor. Visitors can
       square, is the former church and        try their hand at traditional
       monastery of the Franciscans,           farming methods, and there
       built in the 14th century. The tall   Stained-glass window featuring the Virgin   are animals to meet and farm
       Neo-Gothic tower with a 10-m   and Child in Fő tér Church  buildings to explore for children.
       For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


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