Page 247 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary
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THE  GREA T  PLAIN      245


                                               Budapest. The city’s substantial
                                               castle was built by St István
                                               in 1075 but sacked first by the
                                               Mongols, then by the Turks, so
                                               that nothing remains of it today.
                                                 The most important historical
                                               monument in the city now, a
                                               short walk west of the centre, is
                                               the Baroque Francis can church,
                                               built in 1727–54. On the way
                                               is the former synagogue at
       Gyula Castle, almost intact after many years of Turkish rule  Templom utca 2, a Seces sionist
                                               building, restored in the 1950s.
       of the event is based on Kossuth   of Hungary’s best thermal bath   Also worth a visit is the János
       tér, a large pedestrianized   complexes. The mansion also   Damjanich Museum, north of
       square. Here stands the large   features an exhibi  tion on every-  the centre. Named after the
       Secessionist Town Hall, whose   day life – and life as a servant – in   general who led the Hungarians
       tower can be climbed. The   a Hungarian mansion.  to victory over the Habsburgs in
       building next door (formerly a     Another attraction is the   the Battle of Szolnok in 1849, it
       school) now houses the Alföld   charming Százéves, Hungary’s   exhibits folk art, archaeological
       Gallery, which exhibits the    second-oldest café, which   items, and work by the Szolnok
       work of Great Plain artists, for   opened in 1840. Ferenc Erkel,   Artists Colony.
       example, József Koszta, Gyula   who composed grand operas
       Rudnay and Vilmos Aba-Novák.  and the Hungarian national
         The enormous New Calvinist   anthem, was born in the house
       church is impressive but a fair   at Apor Vilmos tér 7. It now has
       walk east along Andrássy utca.   a small museum dedicated to
       Opposite is a superb Secession-  his life and work.
       ist synagogue (1903), with an
       exhibition dedicated to those
       killed in the Holocaust. It often   q Szolnok
       hosts official com mem orative   100 km (59 miles) east of Budapest.
       events on Holocaust Day.
                           Road Map E4. * 73,000. £ @ n
                           Tourinform, Hild J. tér 1, (56) 42 07 04.
       0 Gyula             Located where the river Zagyva
                           flows into the Tisza, Szolnok
       15 km (9 miles) east of Békéscaba.
       Road Map F4. * 31,000. £ from   has long been the last obstacle   The Baroque Franciscan Church, the oldest
       Békéscsaba, Budapest. @ from Békés-  for invaders on the road to   building in Szolnok
       csaba. n Tourinform, Kossuth Lajos
       utca 7, (66) 56 16 80. _ Gyula Castle   Hungarian Calvinism
       Open-Air Theatre Festival (Jul, Aug).
                            Calvinism flourished in eastern Hungary and in Transylvania from
       At one time Scythians, Huns and   the second half of the 16th century to around 1700. Preaching to
       Avars all passed through the   a public that considered Catholicism the religion of the Habsburgs,
       area around the present town    and therefore foreign, a great number of reformers were active in
       of Gyula, but a settle ment called   Hungary before the Reformation movements of Martin Luther and
       Gyulamono stora was first ment-  John Calvin. The Turks actively encouraged the Reformation as a
       ioned in 1313. The impressive   bulwark against Catholicism, and the Hungarian Reformed Church
       castle, which miraculously   quickly became the largest in central Europe. Calvinism rejected
                            consubstantiation, and had a theocratic view of the state, popular
       survives almost intact, was built   with Hun garians under
       in the 14th–15th centuries. Taken   Turkish rule. When the
       by the Turks in 1566, it stayed   Turks were finally expelled
       under their control for 130 years.  in 1699, the Habs burgs
         The castle is the city’s leading   confiscated Calvinist
       sight, and it dominates the   property. This Counter-
       sprawling park that makes central   Reformation bred resent-
       Gyula so pleasant a place. Visitors   ment, and was a major
       can clamber over its walls and   factor in the creation in the
       climb the lookout tower, or in   18th century of a national
       summer enjoy a concert in the   independence move ment,
       court yard. Also in the park is the   both in eastern Hungary   The Calvinist College in Debrecen, founded
       beautifully restored 18th-century   and in Transylvania.  in 1538
       Almásy Mansion, which has one




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