Page 248 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary

246  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE GREA T PLAIN  247

7 Szeged P Reök Palace of Popular Culture (Közművelődési F National Theatre VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Reök palota Palota) has in fact been a Nemzeti Színház
The fourth-largest city in the country, Szeged straddles the Tisza Lajos körút 56. museum since its completion Déak Ferenc utca 12. Tel (62) 47 92 79. Practical Information
River Tisza less than 20 km (12 miles) from the point where Built for István Reök, a wealthy in 1899. There are excellent Opened in 1883, the theatre Road Map E5. * 97,000.
Hungary, Serbia and Romania meet. Almost completely local merchant, in 1907, exhibitions on archaeology, burned down two years later. Roosevelt tér. n Tourin form,
Dugonics tér 2, (62) 48 86 90.
destroyed by spring floods in 1879, Szeged was entirely this extraordinary, fairy-tale ethno graphy and the history It was restored to its original ( daily, Mars tér. _ Szeged
Neo-Baroque design by the
building is a Secessionist
of the Csongrád region. One of
remodelled before being rebuilt, and its wide avenues, masterpiece. Designed by the highlights is the enormous Austrian architects Fellner and Open Air Theatre Festival (mid-
numerous public squares and vast array of architectural Ede Magyar Oszadszki, it looks painting by Pál Vágó showing Helmer. The lush interior, with Jul–Aug). n szegedtourism.hu
styles, from the Neo-Romanesque cathe dral to the like a giant cake topped with Szeged after the flood of 1879. three levels of boxes and an Transport
Secessionist Reök Palace, are testimony to enlightened town striped marzipan. The rotund The art gallery displays works intricately decorated ceiling, can £ Indóház tér, from Budapest.
@ Márs tér, from Kiskunfélegy-
planning. Famous for its free-thinking university, which was balcony on the corner, as well by Hungarian master József be seen during perform ances háza.
as the intricate ironwork –
Rippl-Rónai, though the main
of the philharmonic orchestra,
at the vanguard of the 1956 uprising, the city is today the including the blue flowers that attraction is Mihály Munkácsy’s opera or ballet.
most important on the southern Great Plain, and a centre surround the building like a Hungarian Conquest.
of the salami and paprika trade. cummerbund – are the work u Jewish Quarter the Old Syna gogue has a
of Fekete Pál, working to Zsidó Negyed high-water mark on its outer
designs by Magyar Oszadszki. E Castle Museum South of Nagy Jenő utca. New wall showing the level of the
in 1925, when a damaged Today the building is used by Vármúzeum – Kőtár Synagogue: Jósika utca 10, (62) 42 floods in 1879.
former Baroque cathedral a Hungarian bank. Stefánia sétány 2. Tel (62) 54 90 40. 38 49. Open call for opening times.
was cleared to make way for Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & Closed Sat & Jewish holidays.
the Votive Church. It was fully The castle was built when Béla IV The enormous New
restored and converted into fortified Szeged in 1247 and Synagogue was built in
a baptistry by Béla Rerrich. extended by János in 1547. 1900–3 in Seces sionist style,
On the south side of the square, The scene of one of the with a grand 48-m (157-ft)
a pantheon celebrates famous Turks’ last stands in dome. Its marble
Hungarians. The Ecclesiastical Hungary, in 1688, it was taber nacle is covered
Museum and Treasury on the all but destroyed in the with gold leaf,
square’s western side holds a floods of 1879. All that while the dome,
collection of Catholic memor- remains today is a representing
The brown-brick twin-towered abilia. Behind Dóm tér is Aradi tiny part of a bastion. the night sky, is
Neo-Romanesque Votive Church Vértanuk tere, with a monument The small museum topped by deep
to the Martyrs of Arad, and the tells the castle’s blue glass and
R Votive Church Gate of Heroes (1937) honouring Secessionist elements on the façade of history (open only Detail on main entrance to dotted with stars. New Synagogue, built and decorated in
Szegedi Dóm the heroes of World War I, the Reök Palace in midsummer). the Castle Museum At Hajnó czy utca 12, Secessionist style
Dóm tér. Tel (62) 42 01 57. Open 9am– 12,000 fallen soldiers who came
5pm Tue–Sun. & 7 from Szeged. BUDAPEST
Neo-Romanesque in design, the P Széchenyi tér and Szeged City Centre RÁKÓCZI
Votive Church was con structed Town Hall 1 Votive Church Bus Station TÉR KOSSUTH SGT KALVIN T I S Z A LAJOS KÖRÚT
TÉR
P ÜS P ÖK U T CA
in 1913–30. Everything about it R Serb Orthodox Church Városháza 2 Demetrius Tower and Dóm tér 100 m (110 yards) Thermal Baths KA Z INCZ Y UT C A
is grand in scale. Designed by Görögkeleti Szerb Templom Széchenyi tér. 7 3 Serb Orthodox Church M É R EY U TC A
Frigyes Schulek and Ernő Foerk, Révai utca. Tel (62) 42 42 46. The pond in this large square 4 Reök Palace M I KS ZÁTH K ÁL M ÁN UT C A VÖRÖ SM AR T Y UTC A A RA N Y J . UTC A
it is dominated by two towers This single-towered church, commemorates the devastating 5 Széchenyi tér and D ÓZ S A UT CA S T E FÁ N I A
that reach just short of 100 m founded by Serb immi grants in flood. In front of it stands a Town Hall Great Old F EKE TE S AS UT CA Town Hall
(328 ft). The eastern tower can the 18th century, was remodelled statue of Count Széchenyi Synagogue Synagogue SZECHENYI DE Á K F ERE N C U T CA
be climbed in summer. Above in the Neo-Classical style in 1830. (see p46). The balcony and 6 Ferenc Móra Museum JEWISH TÉR National Theatre
the 10-m- (33-ft-) tall entrance Its beautiful original icono stasis colourful ceramic tiles of the 7 Castle Museum JOSI K A UTCA OUARTER T ISZA L AJOS KÖ RÚT KI G Y O U TC A Castle
Museum
is an enormous Madonna with by Jovan Popovic contains 80 Neo-Baroque Town Hall, built 8 National Theatre VAR UT CA S T E FÁ N I A
Child, while inside the church icons engraved in pear wood. in 1883 by Ödön Lechner, pre- 9 Jewish Quarter KLAUZÁL H I D U T C A Ferenc Móra Open-Air
KÁ R Á S Z U TCA
Thermal
TÉR
several frescoes by Schulek can empt the Secession (which Reök Palace KOLCSEY UTCA Museum Baths
be found, as well as the third- Lechner founded). A “Bridge KÁ LVAR I A SUG A RU T ORO S ZL AN U T ROOSEVELT Open-Air
largest organ in Europe. of Sighs” replica links the town TÉR Pools
hall to the building next door. DUGONICS Belvárosi
bridge
TÉR
S OM O G YI U T CA T C A
The Neo-Classical house (1844) B ÉK E UT CA Szeged
P Demetrius Tower and at No. 9 survived the flood. PE T ŐFI S U GAR UT University ZR INY I U O SK OL A UTCA C A
Dóm tér Serb Orthodox
Church
Dóm tér. 7 E Ferenc Móra Museum HONVÉD Demetrius Votive
The oldest structure in Szeged Közművelődési Palota TÉR Tower and Church Tisza
Dóm Tér
is the 12th- and 13th-century Roosevelt tér 1–3. Tel (62) 54 90 40. ARADI DÓM TÉR
Demetrius Tower (Dömötör- Open 10am–6pm daily. 0 metres 200 V I TÉ Z U T C A VERTANUK
TERE
torony) in Dóm tér. Part of a & 8 SZENTHÁROMSÁG ÚT
Heroes'
once much larger church, and Looking very much like a 0 yards 200 Gate TISZA LAJOS KÖRÚT
the traditional centre of town, The superbly intricate iconostasis of the Neo-Classical mansion built for
Train Station
the tower was only rediscovered Serb Orthodox Church a wealthy merchant, the Palace 300 m (330 yards)
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to map symbols see back flap Freshwater fishing in the Hortobágy National Park
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