Page 272 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary

270  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  271

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK loose change is perfectly
acceptable in cafés. Credit cards
Hungary has a long tradition of hospitality remains a relatively low-cost experience are accepted in the majority
and culinary excellence. Budapest especially because an ever-increasing number of of restaurants, though you’d
is full of exquisite, luxurious restaurants fit restaurants make a special effort to ensure do well to check in more rural
for the emperors of old – the city is, in fact, that visitors to any Hungarian city will be establishments before ordering
your meal.
home to some of central Europe’s most able to enjoy local delicacies. These are usually
historic restaurants. These, though, are slowly served in enormous portions at low prices,
being usurped by a new wave of smart, offering excellent value for money. Hungary’s Recommended
Restaurants
contem porary establishments with younger, coffeehouses, meanwhile, are legendary,
more dynamic chefs committed to creating and there’s no greater pleasure than sitting The restaurants listed here cover
a range of cuisine styles and are
dazzling, modern interpretations of classic and chatting over coffee and cake in one of Centrál Kávéház café (see p277), one of Budapest’s historic coffeehouses the best of their kind in Hungary.
Magyar cooking. Eating out, however, Budapest’s great kávéház. Traditional Hungarian cooking
Reservations
opportunity to sample local remains the dominant theme
A prior reservation is really food and mingle with locals. throughout the country, parti-
paprika). Beer houses, called around 6pm, though those only necessary in the best cularly in the country side, where
söröző, serve an even wider that serve alcohol generally restaurants, especially in the archetypal goulash and
range of moderately priced close much later. Budapest. In Hungary, it is Prices, Tipping paprika-based dishes still form
and Payment
snacks and hot dishes. customary to join other guests the mainstay of most restaurant
Hungary has one of the Vegetarian Food at a table, especially during Like most countries, the cost menus. That said, many newer
oldest coffee-drinking traditions the busy lunchtime. To secure of a meal in Hungary varies establishments are now offering
in Europe. Introduced to Although vegetarian cuisine a private table in advance, it is according to the location a fresh, modern take on age-old
Hungary by the Turks during is hardly found in abundance advisable to reserve it. and type of establishment. recipes, and we’ve listed a
their occupation, the coffee in Hungary, there are a growing Notwithstanding the fact number of restaurants that
culture blossomed, and towards number of places – particularly that Budapest now has some reflect the changing, and more
the end of the Habsburg era, high-end restaurants – that Children incredibly upmarket restaurants, innovative, trends in Magyar
there were almost 600 kávéház offer more adventurous dishes. Children are welcomed in the cost of eating out here is, cooking. Although a fairly loose
in Budapest alone; aside Meat-free dishes can be found all restaurants almost without anyway, higher than elsewhere term, international cuisine is
from coffee, these institutions on most menus: főzelék, a exception. Most places in the country, while you may increasingly popular in many
invariably serve pastries, vegetable dish that normally can provide a highchair for also find prices slightly higher restaurants – especially in
The outdoor terrace of the Pest-Buda cream cakes and ice cream. accompanies steak, sausage or toddlers, while there will around Lake Balaton. Budapest – and here you’ll find
Vendéglő (see p276) a hamburger, can be ordered often be a children’s (or a The prices should also be a number of outstanding places
on its own or with egg, while light) portion on the menu; displayed, but if they are not, each offering a menu of diverse
Types of Restaurants Opening Hours lecsó is a tomato and pepper if not, then the chef will go elsewhere. The introduction dishes inspired by national
and Cafés Most restaurants open around casserole that makes a prepare a suitable dish usually of printed and itemized bills has cuisines from across the globe.
As a general rule, Hungarian 11am and close around 10 or substantial meal by itself. Other at a slightly cheaper price. made it increasingly difficult Ethnic eateries are almost
restaurants carry a name tag 11pm. It is unusual for them meat-free specialities include The only exception might be for hidden extras to be added exclusively confined to the
that indicates what kind of to close during the afternoon, túrós csusza, a pasta dish with dessert, but the desserts in to the final bill, as in days of capital, where there are some
eatery it will be. Étterem simply though many, especially outside cottage cheese and sour cream. Hungarian restaurants are yore, but remain wary and first-class Italian, French and
means restaurant, and any type Budapest, close on Sundays There are also many sweet and so delicious (and sweet) that always check the bill assiduously. Asian restaurants, in particular.
of cuisine may be served. A and/or Mondays. Some savoury palacsinta (pancakes). most children will happily eat In some restaurants, a service The specially recommended
csárda comes in various forms: restaurants in the Balaton area A list of restaurants and shops a whole portion. charge is included in the final restaurants, marked as DK
most are folksy restaurants are open only during the season can be found on the website bill, but this is not common choice, have been chosen
offering interesting variations from May to September. Cafés of the Hungarian branch of Menus practice; if such a charge has because they offer a unique
on local dishes, while a fisher- and patisseries generally open the International Vegetarian not been levied, it is customary experience – typically a com-
man’s csárda, known as a at 8am, running through to Union, www.vegetarian.hu. By law, all Hungarian restaurants to leave your waiter a tip of bination of superb cuisine and
halászcsárda, will offer mainly must display a menu with around 10 per cent, while a truly special atmosphere.
fish dishes and soups. There prices, and while many will have
are two types of inn: a vendéglő, English translation, this is less
which has an informal common outside the capital:
ambience, and a kis vendéglő a staff member or fellow diner
(literally “small inn”), which is may be able to help out. The
similar to a bistro. name of the dish is usually
Besides restaurants, a great followed by a brief description.
place to eat a light snack in Remember that for many
Hungary is in a wine bar Hungarians lunch is the
(borozó). Typically, such snacks main meal of the day. Many
consist of a slice of bread restaurants and cafés therefore
and dripping with raw onion, offer a two- or three- course
sprinkled with paprika, or set menu, consisting of a soup,
pogácsa (a scone with crackling, a main course and often a
cheese, caraway seeds or Peaceful courtyard for al fresco dinning at Kéhli Vendéglő (see p279), in Budapest dessert. This can be a good The refined dinning room at Tigris (see p283), Budapest

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